winch wiring

[bax]

I am trying to build in some protection on wiring in a winch to the battery. Really no way to protect this with a fuse. A winch draws so much under load that there is no protection from a fuse. I was thinking about a on / off switch much like a battery on a boat. Or perhaps a solenoid with a low voltage switch. No power unless the switch is on. Or should I just not worry about it and hook it up to the battery?

 

[DirtDonk]

904Bronco does his that way. Big-ass solenoid like you see in the dual-battery applications sits on top of the Odyssey battery. Weather-resistant toggle switch just in front of the battery, between the core support and grille.




Hmm, there's also a big fuse (not a Mega) in one of the cables. I'll track it to see if it's part of this system or for something else.

Paul

 

[bax]

904Bronco does his that way. Big-ass solenoid like you see in the dual-battery applications sits on top of the Odyssey battery. Weather-resistant toggle switch just in front of the battery, between the core support and grille.

View attachment 457352
View attachment 457351

Hmm, there's also a big fuse (not a Mega) in one of the cables. I'll track it to see if it's part of this system or for something else.

Paul

This is what I was thinking about. I can activate the solenoid with a toggle switch and get the big power flowing. No accidental turn on with the remote bouncing around. I suppose the solenoid can take the big power going thru it?

Thank you.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, but I'll get you the rating just to make sure.
Some of these guys are rated at 400a, 500a and more. Obviously you'd want at least 500 just to make sure. Unless you have an 8274, in which case 750a would be more like it!

Back in a bit....

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Sorry, not sure what this one is rated at. It's a Kodiak Industries branded version of the same type you see in dual-battery kits from many different companies.
Plenty of different style 500a relays it looks like, but this particular one does not show a rating unfortunately.

Maybe 904 was given some details when he got it from Kodiak.
Pretty sure most dual-battery setups would not utilize more than a 200a or 250a version, but I could be wrong. Assuming the price goes up with the amperage capability, likely that's the case though.
The one we sell from Painless is a 250a rated unit of the same style as the one from Kodiak.

Paul

 

[Yeller]

I've done manual disconnects like on a race car but for most I jacket the positive cable to prevent bare spots from forming. Then I hard wire the remote inside the vehicle and use a separate switch with a cover to arm the in and out. Have never had a malfunction. No reason the fancy solenoid won't work, or couldn't be added. I do like having the controls within easy reach with belts on from the drivers seat

 

[sprdv1]

straight to the battery here...

 

[sprdv1]

I've done manual disconnects like on a race car but for most I jacket the positive cable to prevent bare spots from forming. Then I hard wire the remote inside the vehicle and use a separate switch with a cover to arm the in and out. Have never had a malfunction. No reason the fancy solenoid won't work, or couldn't be added. I do like having the controls within easy reach with belts on from the drivers seat

I need to live closer to you LOL

 

[.94 OR]

I installed a 9000i behind the bumper of my F150. Wired through a solenoid and activated by a toggle switch under the hood. I also wired two LED rock lights up under the hood on the same switch.

 

[Steve83]

The meager protection from disconnecting the winch is NOT offset by the increase in complexity & RESISTANCE of adding a switch or relay. If you want to make sure the remote doesn't get mishandled, put it where it won't be. Or wire in a dash switch that's only powered through the ig.sw. so it won't work without the key being on.

But both winch wires need to go directly to the battery for you to get full power every time.

 

[chuzie]

I had an incident with my 8274 a couple months ago. One of the wires I had connected from the solenoid to the cab control came in contact with the solenoid bridge during a hard pull and it shorted causing constant line in signal. We quickly popped the hood and disconnected the battery.

This could have ended badly. Yes, it was my fault for having the wiring poorly routed. I have considered a fuse or switch but feel the quick disconnect battery terminal was very useful.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[bmc69]

Unless you have an 8274, in which case 750a would be more like it!

Back in a bit....

Paul

That right there ^ is why I wouldn't consider any kind of solenoid or switch in line with my 8274; I have it connected to parallel 1000 CCA gr27 batteries..so a theoretical 2000A could be created.

I've smoked the motor brush leads stalling my 8274s on more than one occasion. So, with that in minds, the biggest risk for failure in using an interlock switch or large relay is that you could smoke either one right in the middle of the most critical pull you'll ever have to make. No thanks...

 

[bax]

So now I am back to hooking up directly to the battery. no switch, no disconnect, no nothing?

 

[chuzie]

What winch are you using and what's the battery setup?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[Steve83]

Did you read the instructions that came with the winch? What do they recommend?

 

[bax]

Its a Warn HS9500I. Pretty good winch. Paperwork is straight forward. Bolt to battery. Thats about it.

 

[Yeller]

I need to live closer to you LOL

Your always welcome for a visit

So now I am back to hooking up directly to the battery. no switch, no disconnect, no nothing?

It's what I would do, just carefully protect the cable

 

[bmc69]

Did you read the instructions that came with the winch?

oh snap..you went there....

 

[Steve83]

So that's another vote (from the mfr.) for a direct connection to the battery.

But don't do it the typical cheap/sloppy/dangerous way. Use a proper connection on a proper terminal; or (BETTER) cut the rings off the battery ends of the winch cables, and solder them into the battery terminals. It's not as hard as it sounds, and it's a VASTLY-better connection, for many reasons, for many decades.


(phone app link)

 

[bax]

I wired it directly to the battery. No switch, no nothing. Just some heavy shielding and some soldered on lug ends and heat shrink. All set. next I want to change to rope instead of wire.