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Early Bronco Qtr Panel Seam

12legacytech12

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Jan 11, 2022
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Looking for input on lower to upper qtr panel seam. This may have already been addressed but cannot locate it. Would it be sacrificial to weld and mold in the seam to match the taillight and door line? Has anyone done this and if so add any advice? I am thinking of welding the seam and then use filler to contour the shape. I think it would look more finished but at the same time I appreciate true original restorations. Thanks for being a sounding board.
 

DirtDonk

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I think it's been done. Most likely more often with something like seam sealer rather than a continuous weld. During installation the welding can be done, as it can after the fact. But it also can lead to warpage if done incorrectly. So a sealer of some kind would seem the easier/cheaper/less problematic method to me. But I'm pretty uneducated in body work, so wait for more experienced minds to prevail.

I like the look myself, but I just used silicone sealer when I did mine. This was on a '71 that I bought in '76 and it leaked like a sieve through both the horizontal body line seam AND the vertical seam in front of the rear corners. So I just wanted to keep the rain out rather than was doing it for aesthetic reasons. Wish I'd done a better job visually, but even after 40+ years the silicone is locked in there and doing it's job. Figure I'm going to leave it...

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Oh, and as for originality, even from Ford not all the entire body line had the same profile. From the aftermarket body panel companies it's even worse!
Just look at the rear corners, the main body line, the doors, and then the front fenders. If yours all match perfectly in profile, you're one of the lucky ones!

Paul
 
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12legacytech12

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Thank you. Body lines on mine are not perfect which sometimes adds to that originality. This is my first Bronco (68). Saved her from being converted to a rock crawler, no insult to rock crawlers just not my thing. Have to replace all exterior skins, except upper quarter panels. Was hoping body lines would look better but the lines matching up to the rear lower rocker not so much.

Just wasn't sure how Bronco owners viewed the original resto. I built a 66 GTO and other owners are very picky about keeping them original.
 

BGBronco

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This was done on my previous Bronco. I'm not sure how the PO did it but likely welded because there was no seam at all.
 
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12legacytech12

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Thanks, I am leaning towards the slow process of welding and feathering in with filler. Looks like the thickest part of the filler will be less than a 1/4". Looked into seam sealing and then filler over but 3M does not recommend it. A couple of weeks out before doing the work so it will give me more time for more input.
 

DirtDonk

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This is my first Bronco (68)... Was hoping body lines would look better but the lines matching up to the rear lower rocker not so much.

Just wasn't sure how Bronco owners viewed the original resto. I built a 66 GTO and other owners are very picky about keeping them original.
The Broncos don't fall anywhere near that originality category of other vehicles yet. Not only are they relatively new to the "collector" status, but they're also inconsistent in just what constitutes originality to begin with. And inconsistent as to what a buyer is looking for.
As we like to say, "Your Bronco may vary..." and "Every Bronco is different" and similar sayings. And there traditionally have never been books written to drill down into the finer details of production. The info just does not exist like it does for Corvettes, GTOs and Edsels.
The other marques have had literally decades and even a century in some cases to put those details into the record. Broncos just started gaining value over scrap metal in the last ten years or so. Not much longer than that.
In a way, it's what we've been doing here piece-meal instead. We ARE the record makers and keepers. But only as the info comes to light.
You can't tell by the VIN what the vehicle was equipped with other than the engine, and even Marti Reports (martiauto.com) are not considered to be fully consistent, and that's with supposedly the factory paperwork!

For the time being at least then, original, or not does not have as big an effect on resale value as it does in most other markets. While it might make or break a $100k difference to a Corvette or Mach 1 buyer, have you seen the prices of modified/customized Broncos? Still typically more than stock ones sell for. So yeah, not the same beast at all. Yet...

For now... We can't say it hasn't changed a little bit in that direction already, and can't say it won't go further in that direction. But we're not there yet.
In other words, if you're going to keep and enjoy it, make it the way you want. If you're just building to sell it, then look at the market and keep it as simple as you can to make money. Usually just paint it and sell it!
Of course, how much you make depends entirely on how much work you do yourself vs farm out, and on just what you initially paid for it.

Paul
 

BGBronco

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Broncos just started gaining value over scrap metal in the last ten years or so. Not much longer than that.
In a way, it's what we've been doing here piece-meal instead. We ARE the record makers and keepers. But only as the info comes to light.

Paul
Fantastic perspective!
 
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12legacytech12

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Great input. Thank you very much. Will be doing all the work with the exception of paint. No intentions on selling so will be taking my time and having fun. Being able to be a little creative is a good thing.
 

jamesroney

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I seem to remember that there was seam sealer in the joint. It was 50 years old, and pretty crusty so most of it fell off. But it seems like it should be there.
 

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67sport

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Mine is just a bush truck, but that's how I did mine. My taillight housing had also been previously bent, so I "straightened" it some.
Good enough for me on this truck, it is only going to be hit again, I just hated the rust. It worked out, and for a rattle can paint job, it looks just fine.
 

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Dude 713

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Conneaut Lake Pa.
I had mine welded and then molded to match the door and tail light housing on the horizontal line but didn't do the vertical line on the tail light housing. I personally think it gives it a more finished look.
If you search Broncovid 19/20 on here you can see mine although the pictures don't show it real good.
 

bronkenn

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I would think that welding the entire seam would generate a lot of heat not to mention the amount of grinding which could make the metal thin. You could use silicon bronze wire in your mig which grinds easier and doesn't spark when grind on so it will allow you to know when you're grinding the weld verses the metal. I used 2 part seam sealer and feathered it with my finger and it turned out well.
 
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