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Driveshaft U-joint Help

abn373

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Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
420
Loc.
Charleston, SC
I am baffled here. I have been searching the internet and on here for an answer. I recently swapped out my 9" 3rd member and realized it has the Daytona pinion support with a 1350 yoke. I have the OEM driveshaft with the 1310 yoke. Of course they don't connect, so I got one of the conversion u-joints (MOOG 348) that is half 1310 and half 1350. Too easy, it would seem.

Here is the problem. I removed the old u-joint, cleaned the driveshaft up, etc. When I remove the bearing caps to "easily" slip the 1310 side of the cross into the driveshaft, it won't go into the driveshaft yoke. not even close :unsure: see picture. What am I doing wrong here? I "think" I have the correct u-joint as best as Ihave researched. The new 1350 yoke isn't even the issue, so it makes no sense that the u-joint doesn't work on an OEM (as far as I know, and I have had it for 27 years) driveshaft. Frustrated.
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Yeller

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Mar 27, 2012
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7,689
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Rogers County Oklahoma
The slip yolk looks thicker than normal by today’s standards, not a bad thing but not helping your situation. I personally would change the slip to a 1350 slip. If there are no weights on your current slip it is a simple remove and replace. Hang onto the 1310 it will fit the front shaft.
 
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abn373

abn373

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How does the new joint compare with the one you removed?
:cautious: I was hoping nobody would ask that. I chunked it in the trash and it was trash day. But I did have to pry it out, even with the caps out. I am a dumbass for tossing it out. The cross shouldn't have been that hard to get out. Now I can't compare them. I did order a new slip yoke last night, for a 1310, so will still have to use the adapter u-joint. TBD if the slip yoke works, but it seems way slimmer than what I got now. It is possile that the logging company I bought truck from back in 1997 may have put some HD driveshaft on there.
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
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Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,969
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Take the driveshaft in to where you bought the adapter u-joint. If a driveshaft shop they can if what you need
 
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abn373

abn373

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whats the inside measurment of the yoke ears , have two on the shelf and both measure at 2 5/16...
The new 1310 slip yoke arrived today. Now I don't feel as stupid. The u-joint goes in with ease, like it should. Here is the odd part. My "OEM" driveshaft slip yoke, which apparently is not OEM, measures 2 1/4" and this new one measures 2 5/16" like EPB72 said.
Problem solved.
Thanks fellas.
 
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abn373

abn373

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Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
420
Loc.
Charleston, SC
The new 1310 slip yoke arrived today. Now I don't feel as stupid. The u-joint goes in with ease, like it should. Here is the odd part. My "OEM" driveshaft slip yoke, which apparently is not OEM, measures 2 1/4" and this new one measures 2 5/16" like EPB72 said.
Problem solved.
Thanks fellas.
Well back to being stupid. The slip yoke has a little bit of play, more than the old one, which had none. Seems like that will cause vibration, so I am done. Looks like it's a new driveshaft for me. Also, the grease collar doesn't fit over the splines, and the old collar doesn't come off. Time to cut my losses and just get a new driveshaft, probably wouldn't hurt to get a longer one anyway since I have a 3.5" lift and never changed it out. Probably won't be able to find one with a 1350 yoke on the axle end, so I will have to swap out the u-joint on a brand-new shaft, very frustrating.
 
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abn373

abn373

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Charleston, SC
Call Wild Horses or go direct to Tom Woods. Will build you exactly what you need.
Yep, I am going to give both a call on Monday. I can't get exactly what I need off their websites, but I am hoping Tom Woods can just put a 1350 on one end for me and ship it out.
 

jamesroney

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Sep 11, 2007
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Fremont, CA
You are spending an awful lot of time and money to accommodate the wrong yoke on your pinion.

A 1310 yoke ($75.00) on the 9 inch will solve everything, and be just as strong as that oddball conversion joint.

1350 is pointless if you don’t upgrade the rest of the driveshaft.
 
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abn373

abn373

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Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
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Loc.
Charleston, SC
You are spending an awful lot of time and money to accommodate the wrong yoke on your pinion.

A 1310 yoke ($75.00) on the 9 inch will solve everything, and be just as strong as that oddball conversion joint.

1350 is pointless if you don’t upgrade the rest of the driveshaft.
Agreed, that's why I am going to just upgrade the driveshaft for length, and have a 1350 slip yoke on it, so no oddball conversion u-joint, won't hurt to have an upgraded driveshaft, and to be honest, I didn't want to pull the 1350 yoke off the 3rd member for fear of messing up the ring and pinion settings. not sure if it would or not, but that seems like a headache I don't need.
 
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abn373

abn373

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Messages
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Charleston, SC
Finally installed...well after I accidentally threw out the new 1350 ubolts while (possibly) drunkenly cleaning garage. Ordered new ones. All bolted up. Looking forward to test drive tomorrow with the 4.56 gears
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DirtDonk

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Congrats!
Did you modify the pinion angle at all? Looks a little low.
Could just be the camera angle though.
 
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abn373

abn373

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Oh no. :oops: Now you got me wondering. I haven't shimmed it to change the angle. It's been fine for years with 2.5" springs, I did swap out for 3.5 kit a couple years ago and I didn't change the angles then, but this new 3rd member has a longer yoke, so maybe its optical illusion, or maybe I better get better photos tomorrow during test drive.
 

DirtDonk

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51,619
Or give it the old eyeball angle finder.
If it looks like it’s pointed straight up into the centerline of the driveshaft, or better yet, 1 to 2° below the centerline, you’re good.
Straight into the centerline may actually be too much, but more than 2° down is too much as well.
It’s not horrible sometimes but you could get a vibration upon de-celeration.
Depending upon a lot of other things, pointing it straight into the driveshaft can often give you a vibration under acceleration
 
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