I'm doing a removeable front clip

[ntsqd]

No, they weren't. They held on sheet metal panels of some sort.

I know that in the past I've mentioned the book above, but I haven't mentioned it in a while. I really can't stress how much of the little nuance kinds of questions are answered in it. It should be in the reference library of anyone who does more than simply bolt-on vendor's parts. The current $30 that it costs will pay for itself over and over again.

 

[ba123]

Split lock washers always break into two pieces eventually. They tend to be brittle, so that can happen before install and at any time after that.

Not totally disagreeing, but I have some original ones off my Bronco that have no chance of failing...of course now they are just sitting in a box of bolts but they are beefy. Even the smaller diameter ones.

Maybe you're referring to the non-US made ones you mostly find these days.

 

[ntsqd]

Even if they don't fail, by the time the situation matches their mode of operation the joint has failed. The bolt is no longer tight. Most of the bolts that are used on vehicles are properly called "tension bolts", they are installed and torqued (even if that 'torque' is the installer going "abooooouuutttt THAT tight") and are used in tension to hold things together. That tension is far better at keeping the bolt tight than any lock washer. Once that pre-load is relaxed the bolt isn't and can't do it's job. Even if you can't remove it with just your fingers. The lock washer will fight you to remove it, but it won't hold the bolt or nut at the desired pre-load. It will just keep you from removing the fastener without tearing up the fastener and the surface under it.

This is why I push the book. Mr. Smith does a far better job of this than I do.

 

[skrit]

Holy Grade 8 bolts Batman!

Oh and BTW, I got a "narrowed" wheel tub made for coyote mods thinking about the future. Well shiver me timbers... it had to be cut and modified like everything else!

 

[Madgyver]

I did mine back in 2003. pics on thread no longer shows up. I need to renew my contributor status...

 

[Madgyver]

here is an old pic.

 

[DirtDonk]

I keep thinking of some sort of interlocking mechanism.
Pins and plates, or locking wedges, or something.
Even if not the ultimate fastener, they could make installation and removal a snap and then you can bolt it down in a very few key places to lock it down.
But imagine pins in slots, then locking plates to encompass the pins.
Like three pins per side, sliding down into V-shaped notches, then a plate with the three holes in reverse slid down over that.
Then a bolt or two to keep the plate in place.
Hopefully you can see what I’m imagining. Or imagine what I’m seeing!

 

[ntsqd]

Things like that are occasionally what I do for a living. Buy it if you can, creating it is a LOT more expensive.
Dzus. Simple, easy R& R, spring-loaded, but not terribly rigid unless you apply them in multiple planes.

Or some options off the top of my head:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/index.html

https://southco.com/en_us_int/

https://www.destaco.com/clamping/manual-clamping

https://www.carrlane.com/

https://www.austinhardware.com/

https://www.reidsupply.com/en-us

and, of course, McMaster.com where you can look up stuff from some of these other links.

 

[Madgyver]

My whole front clip is modular. all pieces can come off. easy access to motor and whatever is in there.
Minimal bolts to hold it together.

 

[ntsqd]

If I wanted the inner structures to be easily removed I'd be looking at installing rivnuts in the mating panels.

 

[bigmuddy]

If I wanted the inner structures to be easily removed I'd be looking at installing rivnuts in the mating panels.

Tom, what is your feeling about rivnuts to hold a hardtop on?

 

[ntsqd]

They would be my go-to.

A trick that I'm sure I wasn't the first to invent is to put a fender washer on the backside of the panel that is getting the rivnut, and pull the rivnut up thru the washer. Instant load spreader plate. Where I used them I couldn't reach both sides and had no helper available, so I used a rare earth magnet just to the side of the rivnut and it held the washer in place until the rivnut was tight.

If you need the rivnuts to be flush then "rattle_snake" over on Garage Journal & Irate came up with a clever tool. His pictures:

 

[Madgyver]

If I wanted the inner structures to be easily removed I'd be looking at installing rivnuts in the mating panels.

I just welded regular 5/16" or 3/8" nuts on the panels where needed. Way cheaper and more accessible than rivnuts.

 

[ntsqd]

I detest welding on hardware. I do it when I can't figure out a better way, but don't like it. Forget it being a G8 or even a G5 nut after you've welded it to something. Any H-T that it might have had went away with the welding heat.

 

[Madgyver]

I detest welding on hardware. I do it when I can't figure out a better way, but don't like it. Forget it being a G8 or even a G5 nut after you've welded it to something. Any H-T that it might have had went away with the welding heat.

it's just fasteners. No big deal. just get it done and drive.
simple solutions where no shipping of stuff and waiting involved.

 

[ntsqd]

It can be a very big deal. It isn't something to do without any consideration at all. In this particular application it probably wouldn't matter. Unless the welding heat makes the nuts used so soft that they easily strip. Then it's a big problem.

 

[kman67]

So if using rivnuts or welded nuts, what do you recommend for keeping the bolts(5/16” or 1/4” grade 5) from vibrating loose? Blue loctite? I have several panels that use one or the other.
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Yeller]

Factory did nothing. How many fenders fell off in the last 50 years?

 

[AZ73]

Tom, what is your feeling about rivnuts to hold a hardtop on?

Because of my roll bar I was going to have difficulty removing the rear inner panels to get at the nuts. I took 2 pieces of 3/16" thick 1" wide metal about 48" long, drilled and tapped where the top bolts go along the length, then JB welded the whole length into place. Now I can remove the top without needing a wrench to go behind the rear quarter inner panel and don't have to worry about a rivnut spinning.

 

[ntsqd]

I used to do something similar before rivnuts were easily found. Instead of JB I used two flat-head pop rivets to hold each smaller plate in place.