Project 77

[DonH]

I just brought a 1977. It was being rebuilt in Hawaii a few years ago. All of the ordered parts were all bundled and the Bronco was shipped to WA state. This Bronco has had the usual rust and much of it repaired before it was shipped. Now I have to do and undo much of the finished work. One unfinished item is the steering. It appears to have had a three to five inch lift. The front cross stabilizer bar was never hooked up. I am wondering if it was the wrong size to work. They also installed disc brakes in the rear. The shocks will not hook up because the Disc brakes interfere. It appears the shock mount on the axle will have to be moved.

 

[Chiclassics]

Post some pics

 

[Madgyver]

I just brought a 1977. It was being rebuilt in Hawaii a few years ago.

Honolulu?

 

[DonH]

Honolulu?

Just Hawaii is all I know.
I will post pictures later.

 

[DonH]

Looking a little closer it appears the lift kit came from Toms offroad. I have taken a few pictures and now I will have to remember how to post them.
Looking and reading instructions it apears for some reason the drag ling will not hook up. A four inch bracket was installed and it seems something is missing in the end of the drag link. The sway bar was never hookedup for some reason. SDC13424 was taken over the top of rear tire and the shock will hit the disc brake and will fit brack on axle.
I would like to get the front axle to steer it is hard to move around.

 

[bigmuddy]

Looks to be a 76-77 steering which is going to be problematic with steering geometry and tire wear if you retain it. I wouldn't and would convert it to a T style steering system. I am partial to the 1-ton GM steering as it's relatively cheap and used OEM steering rod ends.
Also, if your steering is setup correctly you really don't need that stabilizer to be road or offroad worthy and its does nothing to correct steering issues.

I think? your calling the trac bar the front stabilizer? it actually located the axle squarely under the bronco and with the lift you either need and adjustable unit for the right year of bronco or you can install and drop track bracket off either the frame or axle end, sometimes both a bracket and adjustable bar are needed to get everything squared away.

On the rear shocks, if you want to retain the rear disc brakes you need to build or buy a new mount that places the shock further forward.

 

[bigmuddy]

All of that said, you really need to determine the lift on your bronco as you will need that information going forward and buying the appropriate parts.

 

[bigmuddy]

I am guessing from the ebrake on the rear calipers those are likely the GM eldorado calipers and are notorious for adjusting and good operation.

 

[DirtDonk]

I would decide what you want to do, along with deciding which way to go, and where you want to end up.
That's obvious most of the time, but often we get caught up in buying parts, and end up getting the ones we don't need because we didn't take it all into account.
As said, the '76 and '77 "Inverted-Y" linkage is problematic for some. Especially when lifted. But it also can work really well when built accordingly.
To that end, what size tires and wheels will you ultimately run?
What height lift do you expect to run? Same as on there now, or change it out?
Do you intend to go off-roading with the Bronco, or is it a street driver?

It's obvious by the part number, that it's a 3.5" lift at least in the rear. Does not hurt to verify the front anyway, just as another data point to help in your build.
If the engine is installed, measure between the top of the front axle tube and the bottom of the frame rail. Anything above 7" (approx.) is your lift height.

With all of that knowledge, you can build away!
If you only want to get it rolling, get rid of the damaged looking and old stabilizer shock and attach the trackbar (you'll need new upper bushings and a sleeve at least) to the upper mount. This way you can steer without the body shifting so far side to side before the wheels turn. You can completely leave the steering stabilizer shock off the vehicle for the duration. Or as long as you want. It's not needed for just rolling around, and not even for driving most of the time.
If you are going to stick with 3.5" or less of suspension lift, and are going to use 33" or smaller tires, and not go off-roading, then simply modify your existing linkage to fit better.
This means you'll need BOTH a trackbar drop bracket AND a dropped pitman arm for a '77. These will get your linkage somewhat aligned back to near-stock, and from there you can tweak with the toe-in right there in your driveway.

If you're going to use larger OR wider tires and wheels, and plan to do ANY off-roading at all, then as the others have already said, get yourself some new, beefier steering links. This could be the "GM 1-ton" setup mentioned, or one of the vendors heavier duty version of the earlier style "Inverted-T" linkage.
You can then also decide whether you want a stronger trackbar riser instead of a drop, a pitman arm for a '75 and earlier, an adjustable trackbar, and even if you want to put the tie-rod on top of the knuckles (aka TRO, or tie-rod over) modification.
It's all about two things. Planning far ahead for one. And being able to punt anyway when something isn't quite the way you want or need.
Sometimes you just need to mock it all up to get it right before locking it down.

When you get a chance, more pictures would be welcome as well! We like pitchers....

Paul

 

[DonH]

I am guessing from the ebrake on the rear calipers those are likely the GM eldorado calipers and are notorious for adjusting and good operation.

I found some parts for the front, A oblong bushing and a four inch drop steering arm. I think that will let me steer it around the shop. Not Shure what to do with the sway bar. The rear shocks are months down the road. After getting front axle to work. I need to check the engine and look into a C4.

 

[DirtDonk]

I found some parts for the front, A oblong bushing

That's for a stock upper '77 trackbar location. Looks like it will fit yours.

and a four inch drop steering arm. I think that will let me steer it around the shop.

Don't worry about the arm until you attach the trackbar. You might be able to steer just by adding that part.
But the arm is good, if you can utilize it. But remember, if you do use the arm and expect to actually drive it on the street, you will need to install a trackbar drop bracket to match the dropped arm.

Not sure what to do with the sway bar.

Nothing yet. Probably could not mount it due to the lift. Many leave them off, but I would try to keep it if you're going to spend most of it's time on the street.
You might need to extend some end-links, or relocate some mounts. Not sure what Bronco owners do in that regard, because it seems like everybody takes them off!

The rear shocks are months down the road. After getting front axle to work. I need to check the engine and look into a C4.

Yep, always plenty to keep you busy with a new build. Especially when someone else started it!
Hopefully you have all the parts you need. But just getting it rolling will be good. Attach the tracbkar and see if it works.

Paul

 

[DonH]

I would decide what you want to do, along with deciding which way to go, and where you want to end up.
That's obvious most of the time, but often we get caught up in buying parts, and end up getting the ones we don't need because we didn't take it all into account.
As said, the '76 and '77 "Inverted-Y" linkage is problematic for some. Especially when lifted. But it also can work really well when built accordingly.
To that end, what size tires and wheels will you ultimately run?
What height lift do you expect to run? Same as on there now, or change it out?
Do you intend to go off-roading with the Bronco, or is it a street driver?

It's obvious by the part number, that it's a 3.5" lift at least in the rear. Does not hurt to verify the front anyway, just as another data point to help in your build.
If the engine is installed, measure between the top of the front axle tube and the bottom of the frame rail. Anything above 7" (approx.) is your lift height.

With all of that knowledge, you can build away!
If you only want to get it rolling, get rid of the damaged looking and old stabilizer shock and attach the trackbar (you'll need new upper bushings and a sleeve at least) to the upper mount. This way you can steer without the body shifting so far side to side before the wheels turn. You can completely leave the steering stabilizer shock off the vehicle for the duration. Or as long as you want. It's not needed for just rolling around, and not even for driving most of the time.
If you are going to stick with 3.5" or less of suspension lift, and are going to use 33" or smaller tires, and not go off-roading, then simply modify your existing linkage to fit better.
This means you'll need BOTH a trackbar drop bracket AND a dropped pitman arm for a '77. These will get your linkage somewhat aligned back to near-stock, and from there you can tweak with the toe-in right there in your driveway.

If you're going to use larger OR wider tires and wheels, and plan to do ANY off-roading at all, then as the others have already said, get yourself some new, beefier steering links. This could be the "GM 1-ton" setup mentioned, or one of the vendors heavier duty version of the earlier style "Inverted-T" linkage.
You can then also decide whether you want a stronger trackbar riser instead of a drop, a pitman arm for a '75 and earlier, an adjustable trackbar, and even if you want to put the tie-rod on top of the knuckles (aka TRO, or tie-rod over) modification.
It's all about two things. Planning far ahead for one. And being able to punt anyway when something isn't quite the way you want or need.
Sometimes you just need to mock it all up to get it right before locking it down.

When you get a chance, more pictures would be welcome as well! We like pitchers....

Paul

Paul
We have only had this thing three days. It came with a truck load of parts. New doors, fenders , seats, front and rear, new windshield frame, and new front fenders. It has had a lot of rust repaired. As far as offroading been there and done that many times and it just seems unimportant just now. As of now this is a project to keep me busy. The engine area has been uncovered for at least five years and has to be looked at.

 

[DirtDonk]

Sounds like you have a fun project on your hands then. A lot of work maybe, but hopefully lots of fun to be had too!
Keep us all along for the ride and a lot of us can make suggestions as you go. Hopefully save you some money.

 

[DonH]

Is a new drive shaft need for a 3 1/2 inch lift? these came with it. I have the old ones maybe I should check the difference. I might try inverting the rear shocks to clear the disc brakes. Just a thought. Installed the right side fender and it seem to fit ok. I started with the right side door shell and it needs more time.

 

[DirtDonk]

Normally, no. You don't need longer shafts for just 3.5" of lift.
Most of us did not at least, but it does happen.
As often as not, those broncos that do need longer shafts, do so because the pinion angle is wrong to start with. But for some reason, even when all is just right, some Broncos just need a little longer shaft.
You can't measure for shaft correctness until the full weight of the vehicle is on the ground, AND the pinions are at their proper (or at least the best attainable) angle.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

I might try inverting the rear shocks to clear the disc brakes. Just a thought.

It's a good thought. Two ways to help with this common clearance issue with rear disc setups.
Invert the shock so that the body is up and the shaft is down. Sometimes this is enough by itself, but the shock has to be able to work in that position. Luckily, many can.
The other, less desirable method is to move the lower shock eye to the inside of the mount. In other words, the eye is now in single-shear bolted to the shock mount (longer bolt is needed), outside of it's enclosure, on the side away from the brakes.
It's not the ultimate solution, but it does work. Adding another single bracket welded to the axle tube will put the bolt back in double-shear for support.
Moving it inboard does probably add a little extra stress to the upper bushing, but not sure it's really enough to cause trouble.

Installed the right side fender and it seem to fit ok.

That's a big win right there! You should read some of the horror stories about fitting new, used, or even NOS factory parts to Bronco bodies! If it fits, it's a win!

Paul

 

[DonH]

My last was a 1967. I install a C4 in it. It seems the 4W C4 are getting hard to come by. AOD autos seem to be a lot more common. I am wondering if that is the way to go or is there a better way. cost is also important.

 

[DonH]

This 77 came with boxed new fenders. I installed the driver side. It fit Ok but The old one is just rusty and I liked it better. The new one is back in the box.
The old bolts were stored in a buck with water and I had to run a die nut on them. The old grill is also back on.

I found the three wire connector to the alternator was and still corroded may have to hard wire it. Thinking about replacing to a one wire alternator and need a diagram for that and the 1977 wire diagram. Searched but did not find one for 1977.

I decided to try to start it. The old carburetor was somewhat corroded and was replaced. I did a compression check. All but one about 150. Found a electric pump and some hose into a can of gas. It started instantly. But the smoke from the exhaust looked like the hose was on fire. I let it run for about five minutes at about 3K hoping it would clearn out but it never did. I think I have work to do here.
The oil on the dipstick was almost normal in color but at least two quartz over filled. Maybe that had something to do with the smoke.

 

[DirtDonk]

They don’t always clear out right away. But depending upon how long it’s been sitting, usually a “snake oil“ additive will eventually clear things up.
Unless it was turned over and run with completely dry cylinders, the rings might still be OK. Your compression numbers indicate reasonably good condition.
I wonder if all the smoke was from one cylinder? You said all, but one, but what was the reading on that one?

 

[DirtDonk]

Did the previous owner indicate how long the engine had been sitting? Or how many miles on it? Or if it’s original?