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Red 72 Explorer Sport Patina Rebuild

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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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surfer-b

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whoever made/formed that carpet did a better job than the new carpet vendors, the rear fender molds look perfect in the pic
 
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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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I can't get the aux tank to feed. Main tank is great. I took a bunch of pictures before tearing it apart so I was sure to put it back together right. Or I guess wrong.
whoever made/formed that carpet did a better job than the new carpet vendors, the rear fender molds look perfect in the pic

It was done very well. I didn't really know how well done it was till I cleaned it up.

Coming along nicely - nice job!

Todd Z.

Thanks. It's a truck I'm excited to be working on, and feel very lucky to have. Sometimes I just stare at it and can't believe I own it.

Update:

Redid the carb with some better documentation and advice from Mike's Carb Parts. I highly recommend using them if you need anything for an old carb. It's running and driving even better. I still have an erratic idle RPM. I'm replacing the cap and rotor soon to see if that smooths things out. I have new oil pressure and water temp sensors on the way as well. The water temp reads at 120* with the water around 160* and the oil pressure reads somewhat accurately until warm then falls and shows 0.

I'm dialing things in and attaching the final accessories in the engine bay and couldn't fit the 3/4" hose to the air cleaner.

1759351450999.png


This looks like the part I'm missing. It looks like NECFP is the only place for one, unless someone has one they want to part with?https://www.northeastclassicfordpar...harcoal-canister-hose-to-air-cleaner-fitting/


A couple more original parts:

Radiator with Ford PN & 12/71 date code.
1759351084210.png

Ford muffler with 4/72 date
1759351051040.png
 

DirtDonk

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Look inside the air cleaner housing first. Find what that black nipple is attached to that’s already partially sticking out.
If it’s got a half moon shaped enclosure with fibrous insert, push it the rest of the way out and see if the hose clips onto that.
If the item inside the air cleaner housing is complete, it should fill that hole and there would normally be a metal two prong clip that slips over it. That clip would normally hold it in place.
It may not be complete, because the item that you linked to is actually what looks like it would slip on the outside. Not sure how they go together, though, because I’m pretty sure my original one was one piece.
Been wrong about this before, but you’re on the right track.
 
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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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Look inside the air cleaner housing first. Find what that black nipple is attached to that’s already partially sticking out.
If it’s got a half moon shaped enclosure with fibrous insert, push it the rest of the way out and see if the hose clips onto that.
If the item inside the air cleaner housing is complete, it should fill that hole and there would normally be a metal two prong clip that slips over it. That clip would normally hold it in place.
It may not be complete, because the item that you linked to is actually what looks like it would slip on the outside. Not sure how they go together, though, because I’m pretty sure my original one was one piece.
Been wrong about this before, but you’re on the right track.
Everything was missing from the air cleaner when I got the truck. The only thing in the air cleaner is the filter. The hose will not connect to it, as it won't fit through the hole in the air cleaner housing, and the filter nipple can't stick further out of the housing.


I'll call and talk with NECFP and see how this should all fit together.
 
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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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Oh yeah, I'm doing a pinion seal on the rear axle and found it doesn't have an oil slinger between the seal and the outer pinion bearing. Is this normal? I watched a couple videos on Youtube to prepare and they all showed the slinger. Rockauto sells a slinger. My Chilton & Haynes manuals are not showing a slinger.
 

904Bronco

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San Martin, CA
[/URL][/URL]

I'll call and talk with NECFP and see how this should all fit together.

That fitting ^^^ attaches to the air cleaner, it twists on and locks to the air cleaner. Then you slip that 3/4" hose from the CC on to it, no clamps.
Nice to see that someone remakes it because the only way I was able to find one was to "walk" the wreaking yard looking for an older Ford car/truck.

As far as the PCV return air vent - the clip holds the filter in place on the air cleaner (outside) and the hose from the rear of the Pass valve cover will clip on to it.

I would add the pinion yoke slinger...
 

DirtDonk

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Interesting. On my ‘71 that filter in the Wix link was fitted differently in the housing.
It’s not for the PCV, since the PCV is already breathing filtered to air from the center of the air filter, housing behind the air filter.
No, that plastic nipple extends fully out through that hole in your picture.
The double-clip retainer thingy with the 2 “feet” and the two “ears“ acting like secondary clips, slides over the fitting through the groove and holds the filter in place.
The ears hold the EVAP hose in place on the outside.

The hose itself has a plastic fitting inserted into it, almost like the insert in the previous link. But with a small cone shape, extending out of it.
The cone allowed it to slip over the fitting and the filter, and have the two little ears fit into the flat side of the cone. Holding it in place.
To remove the hose for servicing, the air filter, you pull in the picture halfway out, which releases only the cone and hose, but still holds the filter into the housing.

Of course, I have to admit, these are literally 40 year-old memories. But humor me please.
Go inside your air filter, housing, pull the clip off of the plastic filter, insert the filter all the way through the metal housing, then slide the clip through the groove in order to hold it in place. Then take a picture and show us how it fits.
Your housing looks like it might be for the different style as shown in the link, because it’s got the two notches in the hole. I don’t remember those being in the 71. So maybe they did change the layout, but I’m still curious how it lines up. And how it would actually attach to the barbed fitting in your previous link.

Of course, good luck finding the fitting that I had in the hose on my 71!
 

Chiclassics

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I still have an erratic idle RPM.
I am new to this thread, I like the build you are doing closer to stock. Typically when you have erratic idle its an indication of vacuum leak. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? typically around carb base and/or all vacuum ports
I'm replacing the cap and rotor soon to see if that smooths things out.
Try vacuum leak route first before changing dist. Unless its followed by other issues like misfires, sudden engine stopping etc
The water temp reads at 120* with the water around 160* and the oil pressure reads somewhat accurately until warm then falls and shows 0.
Your instrument voltage regulator working ok?
 
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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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Interesting. On my ‘71 that filter in the Wix link was fitted differently in the housing.
It’s not for the PCV, since the PCV is already breathing filtered to air from the center of the air filter, housing behind the air filter.
No, that plastic nipple extends fully out through that hole in your picture.
The double-clip retainer thingy with the 2 “feet” and the two “ears“ acting like secondary clips, slides over the fitting through the groove and holds the filter in place.
The ears hold the EVAP hose in place on the outside.

The hose itself has a plastic fitting inserted into it, almost like the insert in the previous link. But with a small cone shape, extending out of it.
The cone allowed it to slip over the fitting and the filter, and have the two little ears fit into the flat side of the cone. Holding it in place.
To remove the hose for servicing, the air filter, you pull in the picture halfway out, which releases only the cone and hose, but still holds the filter into the housing.

Of course, I have to admit, these are literally 40 year-old memories. But humor me please.
Go inside your air filter, housing, pull the clip off of the plastic filter, insert the filter all the way through the metal housing, then slide the clip through the groove in order to hold it in place. Then take a picture and show us how it fits.
Your housing looks like it might be for the different style as shown in the link, because it’s got the two notches in the hole. I don’t remember those being in the 71. So maybe they did change the layout, but I’m still curious how it lines up. And how it would actually attach to the barbed fitting in your previous link.

Of course, good luck finding the fitting that I had in the hose on my 71!
I'll take things apart today and see if I can sort this out. Thanks for the ideas.

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk
 
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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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I am new to this thread, I like the build you are doing closer to stock. Typically when you have erratic idle its an indication of vacuum leak. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? typically around carb base and/or all vacuum ports

Try vacuum leak route first before changing dist. Unless its followed by other issues like misfires, sudden engine stopping etc

Your instrument voltage regulator working ok?
Thanks for the input.

I did consider vacuum leaks and sprayed brake cleaner around the vac lines with no change in RPM. I'll take a closer look.

I think the gauge cluster regulator is working. The gas gauge works and reads consistent. I probably have an extra regulator lying around that I could swap. Is there a voltage test for the regulator? I haven't looked into it since the gas gauge is working.

Sent from my Pixel 7 using Tapatalk
 

DirtDonk

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I don’t know of any definitive test, but if you happen to have an old analog multimeter around (still remember RadioShack?), you can connect the positive to the output of the IVR and the negative to ground.
You should see an evenly pulsing signal with the key on.
The needle will oscillate between, I forget, something like 3v and 7v maybe? I think the average output is just 5 or 6 V.

With a digital multimeter, all you can probably do is hope that it’s a fast reacting one (an oscilloscope would be nice about now!) and see what it’s doing.
A lot of members have tried it, however, so maybe someone has some insight as to using a digital meter.

If you have a modern IC-based IVR, however, you just read the output as a simple voltage.
It’s not as sophisticated as the old school points type, but it still gets the job done most of the time.
On those you should see a steady output reading of 5 to 6v. I think!😉🙄
 
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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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Here are a couple pics of the air cleaner & housing. The PCV line off the passenger valve cover uses the port on the upper housing and nothing is going to fit inside the housing. It looks like there is a domed screen inside the housing at the hose fitting.

The filter only fits the way I had it installed originally with the clip on the inside of the air cleaner lower housing. The filter won't push through far enough to get the clip on the outside.

Either the fitting on NECFP website is used alone or possibly in conjunction with the filter. I'll call them tomorrow morning and see if they can lend assistance, or if someone has some pictures of how it fits together that would be great. I can't find anything in my Chilton or Haynes manuals detailing this part.

EDIT: My guess is the filter gets clipped inside the housing, the nipple from NECFP twist locks into the housing and engages the filter and the 3/4" hose pushes over the nipple.

1759447832974.png


1759447844104.png


1759447863944.png


1759447883098.png
 
Last edited:

DirtDonk

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Excellent. Thanks for going to the trouble!
I wonder if the parts changed, or my memory is faulty.
Or both!

Would not be the first time for either one!
I forget if you said, but what month was this '72 built in? I see the extra support link to the throttle linkage screwed to the firewall, but what looks to be a later carburetor.
The extra linkage, and the two holes in the firewall, disappeared in very late '72 if I remember. After the cold-air opening started to appear in the core support near the battery. And that new feature of the core support was usually accompanied by the power steering bump-out on the driver's side. Before cold-air intake and power steering were available.

Paul
 

Oldtimer

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Appears that the I6 used a crankcase breather filter and the V8 just had an elbow for the crankcase breather hose.

1759457879871.png


Can't find an illustration for 72 I6 air cleaner.
1759457936644.png

 

Rox Crusher

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Here are a couple pics of the air cleaner & housing. The PCV line off the passenger valve cover uses the port on the upper housing and nothing is going to fit inside the housing. It looks like there is a domed screen inside the housing at the hose fitting.

The filter only fits the way I had it installed originally with the clip on the inside of the air cleaner lower housing. The filter won't push through far enough to get the clip on the outside.

Either the fitting on NECFP website is used alone or possibly in conjunction with the filter. I'll call them tomorrow morning and see if they can lend assistance, or if someone has some pictures of how it fits together that would be great. I can't find anything in my Chilton or Haynes manuals detailing this part.

EDIT: My guess is the filter gets clipped inside the housing, the nipple from NECFP twist locks into the housing and engages the filter and the 3/4" hose pushes over the nipple.

View attachment 951380

View attachment 951381

View attachment 951382

View attachment 951383
I wonder if someone will have a very stock set up for you to look at next week?
 
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