Steering box inside frame mount?

[Hallboss]

I see that I have a different setup than most with my steering box mounted inside the frame (PO did this). I have zero steering issues with this now that I fixed caster… etc, and it’s pretty much dialed in. The seal on the steering box is leaking so I’m about ready to rebuild it, since its time for winter to-dos. My problem, since the box is mounted inside frame the pitman arm bolt hits my drag link when suspension is compressed. Before I spend the money to rebuild this steering box, any suggestions on what can be done with current setup to prevent the bolt from hitting the drag link? @DirtDonk ?? Thanks guys.

 

[Oldtimer]

Can you flip the bolt?
Bolt head is thinner than nut plus 4 threads protruding thru nut.

 

[JB Fab]

F100 2x4 steering box conversion
I used a slightly shorter pitman arm

 

[Hallboss]

Can you flip the bolt?
Bolt head is thinner than nut plus 4 threads protruding thru nut.

Damn! Duh… thanks. Will try that tomorrow then see if it hits.

 

[Hallboss]

F100 2x4 steering box conversion
I used a slightly shorter pitman arm

Another good idea.. thank you.

 

[Broncobowsher]

That's a '70s (dentside) 2WD F100-F350 steering box. In 2WD applications they are mounted behind the twin I-beams. Because of where the steering column comes out of the cab, and the pitman needs to be down at axle level, the sector shaft is unusually long.

In the 90's it was used in one of the first power steering conversion kits. Before this about the only way to get power steering was to find an original Bronco power steering setup. Those were getting rare even back then. The dentside trucks were everywhere. And Ford was nice enough to make power steering standard (if not, nearly so). So finding one of these steering boxes was real easy. Going off memory, it was developed by Vintage Broncos out of Arizona, back when they were in business. The same guy that figured out how to make the GM based disk brake conversion. The brackets were sold as part of a kit. Minimal fab needed. Got published in the magazines of the day.

it worked. It was a powerful steering box. Drag link tended to be a bit short, but this was still the days of stiff suspension and not much wheel travel. So it worked. The fact you don't have any issues is enough to tell me that is is fine and leave it alone. Well, do fix the seal. I've know people who wheeled with it very hard for many years. And daily drove it as well. Doing a power steering conversion today there are better choices out there. I'm sure a few places still have ancient kits left on the shelf. It's not one that is even considered anymore. But it does point to the Bronco being a project to someone back in the 90s.

 

[papy]

That's a '70s (dentside) 2WD F100-F350 steering box. In 2WD applications they are mounted behind the twin I-beams. Because of where the steering column comes out of the cab, and the pitman needs to be down at axle level, the sector shaft is unusually long.

In the 90's it was used in one of the first power steering conversion kits. Before this about the only way to get power steering was to find an original Bronco power steering setup. Those were getting rare even back then. The dentside trucks were everywhere. And Ford was nice enough to make power steering standard (if not, nearly so). So finding one of these steering boxes was real easy. Going off memory, it was developed by Vintage Broncos out of Arizona, back when they were in business. The same guy that figured out how to make the GM based disk brake conversion. The brackets were sold as part of a kit. Minimal fab needed. Got published in the magazines of the day.

it worked. It was a powerful steering box. Drag link tended to be a bit short, but this was still the days of stiff suspension and not much wheel travel. So it worked. The fact you don't have any issues is enough to tell me that is is fine and leave it alone. Well, do fix the seal. I've know people who wheeled with it very hard for many years. And daily drove it as well. Doing a power steering conversion today there are better choices out there. I'm sure a few places still have ancient kits left on the shelf. It's not one that is even considered anymore. But it does point to the Bronco being a project to someone back in the 90s.

cool bit of info! I've never seen this set up before.

 

[lars]

cool bit of info! I've never seen this set up before.

Bowsher's description was a trip down memory lane. When I bought my Bronco in 1996 that setup was the only known option for power steering other than finding (by then) unicorn OEM 75-77 power steering gear. Which, thanks to being in Jim Creel's shop at the right moment, I did. Now no one has heard of it. Amazingly there are more options than ever now, none of which include a steering gear on the inside of the frame.

 

[nvrstuk]

For sure on the earlier box fitment memories.

2 easy fixes:

1- like already mentioned, flip the bolt end for end. If that isn't enough then buy a cap head bolt that is thinner- can't remember the exact name but I saw them at Fastenal and used them 5/8" and 3/4" in some tight clearance spots.

2- bend the pitman arm. Heat it, bend it and cool it in sand. Done. I would not recommend getting a shorter pitman arm as it will decrease your turning radius. Just letting you know that's the downside.

 

[Hallboss]

That's a '70s (dentside) 2WD F100-F350 steering box. In 2WD applications they are mounted behind the twin I-beams. Because of where the steering column comes out of the cab, and the pitman needs to be down at axle level, the sector shaft is unusually long.

In the 90's it was used in one of the first power steering conversion kits. Before this about the only way to get power steering was to find an original Bronco power steering setup. Those were getting rare even back then. The dentside trucks were everywhere. And Ford was nice enough to make power steering standard (if not, nearly so). So finding one of these steering boxes was real easy. Going off memory, it was developed by Vintage Broncos out of Arizona, back when they were in business. The same guy that figured out how to make the GM based disk brake conversion. The brackets were sold as part of a kit. Minimal fab needed. Got published in the magazines of the day.

it worked. It was a powerful steering box. Drag link tended to be a bit short, but this was still the days of stiff suspension and not much wheel travel. So it worked. The fact you don't have any issues is enough to tell me that is is fine and leave it alone. Well, do fix the seal. I've know people who wheeled with it very hard for many years. And daily drove it as well. Doing a power steering conversion today there are better choices out there. I'm sure a few places still have ancient kits left on the shelf. It's not one that is even considered anymore. But it does point to the Bronco being a project to someone back in the 90s.

Thanks for the information… great stuff!

 

[Hallboss]

For sure on the earlier box fitment memories.

2 easy fixes:

1- like already mentioned, flip the bolt end for end. If that isn't enough then buy a cap head bolt that is thinner- can't remember the exact name but I saw them at Fastenal and used them 5/8" and 3/4" in some tight clearance spots.

2- bend the pitman arm. Heat it, bend it and cool it in sand. Done. I would not recommend getting a shorter pitman arm as it will decrease your turning radius. Just letting you know that's the downside.

Thank you. The bolt flip is actually going to work I think. Wheeled it yesterday and no contact with the drag link. Thanks @Oldtimer . Feel like a dumb@$$ for not thinking of that. I’m going to keep the same setup since it’s working great. Decided to get a re-man F100 box from Redhead Steering Gears in Auburn and will turn this one in for the core. Upgraded guts and I don’t need to mess with replacing the seal.

 

[DirtDonk]

Seals leaking is probably one of the few problems anybody ever ran into with that box. Not that they were perfect mind you, but they were very reliable.
Granted, the necessity of the short drag link was a downside, but the boxes were plentiful, relatively inexpensive, had good steering feel, fewer turns lock-to-lock, and were quite strong compared to other Bronco options.
All in all, very reliable over time.

If you ever need a replacement drag link, we still carry that linkage.

 

[Hallboss]

Seals leaking is probably one of the few problems anybody ever ran into with that box. Not that they were perfect mind you, but they were very reliable.
Granted, the necessity of the short drag link was a downside, but the boxes were plentiful, relatively inexpensive, had good steering feel, fewer turns lock-to-lock, and were quite strong compared to other Bronco options.
All in all, very reliable over time.

If you ever need a replacement drag link, we still carry that linkage.

Good to know, I have no idea if this is the orginal box or if it was ever rebuilt. Not too bad if it was the orginal and has just now started to leak. It’s not a lot, just dripping a bit. Reading up on the Redhead re-mans, I’m interested to see how much better that one is for maybe a tighter steering.
The Wildhorses kit married with the Duff suspension is impressive. 5.5 lift 35s… one finger on the steering wheel at I5 speeds. Thanks Paul!

 

[ksagis]

Couple of observations:

-How parallel is your drag link and track bar? Hard to tell in pic, but seems off. How is your bump steer?

-You sure you need the high misalignment spacers on pitman arm side of the drag link? You could get what would appear more parallel and also more clearance if not actually needed.

One more: does your brake line actually run in front of knuckle? What kind of brakes are you running up front?

 

[bmc69]

Back in the day...that F-100 2wd box setup was pretty common. Here's what mine looked like..

 

[ngsd]

Back in the day...that F-100 2wd box setup was pretty common. Here's what mine looked like..



View attachment 954087

I have the same set up with the same brace. I think that was a protofab piece? Just took it off and sitting here if anyone wants it.

 

[Hallboss]

Couple of observations:

-How parallel is your drag link and track bar? Hard to tell in pic, but seems off. How is your bump steer?

-You sure you need the high misalignment spacers on pitman arm side of the drag link? You could get what would appear more parallel and also more clearance if not actually needed.

One more: does your brake line actually run in front of knuckle? What kind of brakes are you running up front?bump steer and I’m satisfied with the steering. This linkage was all installed by the PO, but I’ve installed the updated C bushings for the correct caster. I’m not sure about the spacer on the pitman arm. I’m all ears if the suspension experts on here see an issue. Even if I don’t change anything on it, still like to know opinions.

The PO installed all the linkage, I just replaced the C-bushing to correct the caster. So I have no clue if this is right or not. I think it drives good for what I think a 1973 5.5” lift on Pitbull 35s should drive. Obviously not a high end EB build ride, but good considering. I believe their may be some bump steer but it isn’t crazy. Actually satisfied with it, open to opinions from the suspension gurus. This picture shows the angles. I understand what you are saying about the spacers. I’ll be removing those when I get the re-man box from Redhead on Friday. I just realized, the pitman arm bolt is still hitting the drag link after today’s drive.

The driver’s side brake line goes in front into the bracket. Still drums in front, but the disc conversion with hydro is on the wish/to-do list.

 

[toddz69]

I have the same set up with the same brace. I think that was a protofab piece? Just took it off and sitting here if anyone wants it.

Yes, the brace was a Protofab piece. I had one kicking around my garage too for years after I took it off. I might have recycled the tubing for something? I can't remember....

Todd Z.

 

[ksagis]

I think it drives good for what I think a 1973 5.5” lift on Pitbull 35s should drive.

The driver’s side brake line goes in front into the bracket. Still drums in front, but the disc conversion with hydro is on the wish/to-do list.

If you’re happy with driving habits, take the following with a grain of salt - the angles look undesirable and the different lengths also look undesirable, with both contributing to bump steer. There’s a couple posting from me on the forum of me working my bump steer with a ton of math if you care to read up. But, like I said, if you’re happy, no need to go down the rabbit hole.

Makes sense on drums and the routing, was pretty sure it wasn’t disks.

 

[Oldtimer]

You may be able to decrease bump steer by putting the drag link on top of pitman arm, but there may be other interferences you will need to consider.

Like ksagis stated, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. However it is a Bronco, and I fix mine till it's broken.

. . . the pitman arm bolt hits my drag link . . .

I think you mean "tie rod"?