Recent content by Steve83

It's not an attachment - it's a link to a free image hosting site where, like any site, you can save the images to your local storage (phone, HDD, thumbdrive, cloud, etc.). Here's the raw image (unless CB resizes it), but that page has useful information & other relevant links.

Pick any free image hosting site, upload it, then paste the link here. I use SuperMotors, but it's not nearly as good as it used to be. This is clickable. Apparently not. ;)

I used a laser level across the cargo bed sections of the rails when I made this, but read the caption before clicking to zoom and then clicking to the original which you can save locally. https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/876772

The cylinders never "retract" - they have a strong spring inside pushing them outward. It's the red & brown springs at the tops of the shoes that push the slave pistons back in. But everything has to align properly & work smoothly for that to happen. Read the procedure on this page...

Something is wrong on both sides because the secondary (front) shoe doesn't touch the anchor pin. That alone can "energize" the brakes, so I'm surprised both weren't dragging. (click this text) (click this text) And I don't see any brake grease. (click this text)

I've never done that - it's just basically the opposite of what the instructions say about cleaning the surfaces. If one isn't clean, it won't stick to that side.

For the tunnel cover, Ford used butyl dum-dum on the later trucks that were built that way, so that's one option, but it's messy when you pull the panel. What I use for tank access panels and for places where the butyl has degraded or a plastic component has warped is the same thing I used when...

That's a common mythconception. ;) But I bet even AI will tell you that a cavity in a heated expanding object also expands at exactly the same rate as if it were solid material. And if you consider that the block can be hotter in the middle and cooler at the edges, then you also have to consider...

Then start by grounding the sender wire with the key in RUN, which is the easiest to do. If the gauge still doesn't move, check for a pulsing voltage at the gauge terminals. If it's not getting electrical power, it can't move.

Assemble it & apply a known pressure. But it really doesn't matter if it's accurate - it only needs to be relatively precise, meaning that it goes to the same position every time a particular pressure is applied. That's why later oil pressure gauges have no numbers; the number doesn't matter...

A pump creats FLOW. Blocking/restricting that flow increases the pressure to a degree relative to the amount of restriction. And all flow has restriction due to friction against the container surfaces & against the fluid being slowed by that friction. But a thermostat forcing the majority of the...

Pull the dipstick & note the oil level on it. Then hang it beside the tube with its collar hooked on the top of the tube running down the block to the pan area. Crawl under, and look at where the oil level was on the stick, now relative to the threads of the tube. If it's below the threads...

How do you imagine a t'stat normally works in a hot environment? And how do you imagine no t'stat in a hot environment could cause overheating that wouldn't happen if there were a t'stat? How many t'stats have you ever seen or heard of breaking in a way that caused overheating? I think I might...

Yes, that's what we (the people I quoted & I) were talking about in my post that you quoted. What I said to you is on the first page:

That kind of grime doesn't just appear in 60 or 200 miles.