efi centech ign power blue wire

[skerrybronco]

I see this has been mulled over, and many have been here, so just want to make sure I have some of these wires right.
Will be wiring in 92 Mustang Harness with explorer 4G Alt, finally getting there.

Violet Start wire............I installed my nss on C4 and wired this in and will connect to the S on solenoid relay.

Green Reg-s, I wired to 4G alt green/r connector wire, yellow connector wire to alt with 4ga wire from battery and 175 amp fuse.

White coil and I term, not to be used " correct "

Blue IGN Power not sure about this one, it was disconnected and taped off when I made a clean up on the fender well. from what I am reading I do not need it??
Could I use it to power any of the refi harness relays, is it a crank and run wire.
Also have a extra violet start wire could I use this as well to trigger a relay

Yellow alt wire will be used for some thing else, is this strong enough to give power to a fuse block for my relays EEC, FP,MA/OS, ING .

Also my RED power wire with orange fusable link I would like to go through the fuse block or inline fuse " how many amps ??

thanks in advance for any help, once I have this in my head I will be able tmove forward a lot faster

 

[skerrybronco]

TTT
just got home from work, going to go trace that blue wire and figure this out so I can get onto installing the Efi harness
any body..66 views

 

[904Bronco]

I see this has been mulled over, and many have been here, so just want to make sure I have some of these wires right.
Will be wiring in 92 Mustang Harness with explorer 4G Alt, finally getting there.

Violet Start wire............I installed my nss on C4 and wired this in and will connect to the S on solenoid relay.

Green Reg-s, I wired to 4G alt green/r connector wire, yellow connector wire to alt with 4ga wire from battery and 175 amp fuse.

White coil and I term, not to be used " correct "

Blue IGN Power not sure about this one, it was disconnected and taped off when I made a clean up on the fender well. from what I am reading I do not need it??
Could I use it to power any of the refi harness relays, is it a crank and run wire.
Also have a extra violet start wire could I use this as well to trigger a relay

Yellow alt wire will be used for some thing else, is this strong enough to give power to a fuse block for my relays EEC, FP,MA/OS, ING .

Also my RED power wire with orange fusable link I would like to go through the fuse block or inline fuse " how many amps ??

thanks in advance for any help, once I have this in my head I will be able tmove forward a lot faster

Yes purple wire runs through NSS and back to starter solenoid.
Green Regulator wire to Green/red wire from 3G or 4G
Yellow Centech Alt wire is not used, not connected to Alt. 4 gauge wire through mega fuse provides power to Alt.
Small yellow wire from Alt regulator plug is connected to battery terminal at Alt, small white wire (if equipped) plugs into stator in side of alt
Blue ignition wire is not needed for EFI, could be used as a trigger wire for a relay
Coil and "I" wires not used on EFI
Extra purple wire??? I do not remember there being one...
Yellow Alt wire could be used for something else, not sure of how many amps it could carry
So you want to ditch the fuseable link and go with an inline fuse... Need to know what gauge wire the fuseable link wire is to determine it's amp rating.

 

[DirtDonk]

The fusible link in the Centech kit could be replaced by a 60 amp Maxi-Fuse. That's what Painless puts in all of their kits, and probably some of the others as well.
The wire itself (the large Red one at the starter relay) is capable of handling more maybe, but there's no need. Most EB's barely pull 40 amps max through that wire with everything turned on.

The extra Purple wire is the other START wire. Centech plumbs for both manual and automatic transmissions in the harness. The short one is hooked straight to the starter relay's "S" terminal if you have a manual trans. When running an automatic, the short one gets cut off (or used for some other purpose if needed) and the long one runs first to the NSS then to the starter relay's "S" post.

The now unused large Yellow Centech wire could probably handle 70 amps pretty well I would think. It's all about gauge and length of course, so guessing and assuming that the wire is, let's say about 6' long or so(?) it could handle 100 amps for at least a short time.
But why tempt fate, right?

Paul
Paul

 

[skerrybronco]

Yes purple wire runs through NSS and back to starter solenoid.
Green Regulator wire to Green/red wire from 3G or 4G
Yellow Centech Alt wire is not used, not connected to Alt. 4 gauge wire through mega fuse provides power to Alt.
Small yellow wire from Alt regulator plug is connected to battery terminal at Alt, small white wire (if equipped) plugs into stator in side of alt
Blue ignition wire is not needed for EFI, could be used as a trigger wire for a relay
Coil and "I" wires not used on EFI
Extra purple wire??? I do not remember there being one...
Yellow Alt wire could be used for something else, not sure of how many amps it could carry
So you want to ditch the fuseable link and go with an inline fuse... Need to know what gauge wire the fuseable link wire is to determine it's amp rating.

thanks for the input 904bronco
I have figured out that the blue wire comes from the top left fuse panel 10 amp
and went to a 3 plug connecter close to the firewall with the extra start and the white I-term / coil wire, these three were feeding the duraspark or regulator not sure which.

yellow and red wire look to be 8 Gauge

 

[DirtDonk]

10 gauge. An 8 gauge wire takes a pretty big jump in size, even with a thin jacket.

Paul

 

[skerrybronco]

The fusible link in the Centech kit could be replaced by a 60 amp Maxi-Fuse. That's what Painless puts in all of their kits, and probably some of the others as well.
The wire itself (the large Red one at the starter relay) is capable of handling more maybe, but there's no need. Most EB's barely pull 40 amps max through that wire with everything turned on.

The extra Purple wire is the other START wire. Centech plumbs for both manual and automatic transmissions in the harness. The short one is hooked straight to the starter relay's "S" terminal if you have a manual trans. When running an automatic, the short one gets cut off (or used for some other purpose if needed) and the long one runs first to the NSS then to the starter relay's "S" post.

The now unused large Yellow Centech wire could probably handle 70 amps pretty well I would think. It's all about gauge and length of course, so guessing and assuming that the wire is, let's say about 6' long or so(?) it could handle 100 amps for at least a short time.
But why tempt fate, right?

Paul
Paul

thanks for the input Paul
wiring is not my strongest suit, trying to keep my head in this to finish it.
So for my EFI relays I have a 6 fuse block I will power from the battery or the yellow wire which is 8 ga to feed my relays
So for the EEC, FP, and Mass air / O2 ,I need iGN Run so I could use the blue wire to trigger these.
and the Ignition relay I need Ign start run, could I use the extra start wire or is that only start and not run

 

[DirtDonk]

Purple/Violet is always START-only. Never hot in RUN.

The Green wires in that corner are usually START/RUN wires though.

All the start/run combos are usually accomplished at the ignition switch, but the Blue and White wires tied together would do pretty much the same thing, albeit with more hassle. And you'd have to have the White wire connected to the "I" post of the starter relay, which I think is MIA on your new late-model starter relay I see in the third pic?
So seems one of the Green wires is best?

I've used terminal strips to do some of this stuff cleanly in some cases. Where the Violet wire is connected to one post, which then jumps to both the starter relay and to the EFI relay bank. A second post gets a Green wire for the run/start duties. A third post utilized one of the always-hot wires to power the Red main power wire for the EFI relays.

Paul

 

[skerrybronco]

Purple/Violet is always START-only. Never hot in RUN.

The Green wires in that corner are usually START/RUN wires though.

All the start/run combos are usually accomplished at the ignition switch, but the Blue and White wires tied together would do pretty much the same thing, albeit with more hassle. And you'd have to have the White wire connected to the "I" post of the starter relay, which I think is MIA on your new late-model starter relay I see in the third pic?
So seems one of the Green wires is best?

I've used terminal strips to do some of this stuff cleanly in some cases. Where the Violet wire is connected to one post, which then jumps to both the starter relay and to the EFI relay bank. A second post gets a Green wire for the run/start duties. A third post utilized one of the always-hot wires to power the Red main power wire for the EFI relays.

Paul

Ok so maybe I will run some wires from the ignition, I thought it may be convenient if I could utilize some of the wires already there.
oh I do still have a I terminal on the solenoid relay

thanks again

 

[DirtDonk]

Sorry if I wasn't clear, but that's what I was saying you should do. The wires are already right there in the Centech harness. Plenty of extras even if you were using some of them already.

There are at least 3 green wires in that corner. Two of them at least are completely unused unless you have some additional gizmos taking power from them already. And even then, you can certainly utilize them for additional duties.

So, to reiterate, for 12v power in both start and run, you have several choices in a Centech harness that are not used otherwise in an EFI install.
1. Dark Blue
2. Medium Blue
3. Green
4. Green
5. Green
6. maybe others I'm forgetting.

Here's an OE. GM buss bar converted to separate posts.

Here's your basic Radio Shack type terminal strip doing the same duties.

Here's a pic of at least two of the Green wires (I forget what that other capped off Weatherpack in the background is for) that you could separate and use one of.


Hope that helps.

Paul

 

[skerrybronco]

Sorry if I wasn't clear, but that's what I was saying you should do. The wires are already right there in the Centech harness. Plenty of extras even if you were using some of them already.

There are at least 3 green wires in that corner. Two of them at least are completely unused unless you have some additional gizmos taking power from them already. And even then, you can certainly utilize them for additional duties.

So, to reiterate, for 12v power in both start and run, you have several choices in a Centech harness that are not used otherwise in an EFI install.
1. Dark Blue
2. Medium Blue
3. Green
4. Green
5. Green
6. maybe others I'm forgetting.


Hope that helps.

Paul

thats great
thanks for your time Paul, nice clean truck, yours or client

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, I like using pics of it because that bright Orange really lets you see the individual components.
He's finally driving it around too, now that it's got new tires and the e4OD trans is shifting correctly now.

Fun times ahead!

Paul

 

[904Bronco]

Thanks for doing clean up there Paul ;D, Wiring can be a daunting task!

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes it can! I still remember the first time I had to hook up a relay! Already knew some basics (enough to get me in trouble of course) but had no clue what those things were for, what they did, and why it was needed at all.

It was one of those FIAMM air horn setups back in the early seventies. Did one on a GM car and one on a Bronco. The Bronco required that we get really creative, and use some "artistic license" with their instructions!
Fun times.

Paul

 

[skerrybronco]

Thanks for doing clean up there Paul ;D, Wiring can be a daunting task!

Daunting is right
I think I have been avoiding getting the wiring done, but I need to learn and do it

 

[skerrybronco]

Yes it can! I still remember the first time I had to hook up a relay! Already knew some basics (enough to get me in trouble of course) but had no clue what those things were for, what they did, and why it was needed at all.

It was one of those FIAMM air horn setups back in the early seventies. Did one on a GM car and one on a Bronco. The Bronco required that we get really creative, and use some "artistic license" with their instructions!
Fun times.

Paul

that will be my next fun wiring the relays in

 

[DirtDonk]

A bit more additional wiring perhaps, but pretty basic once you understand their workings. Luckily they just take the typical 1/4" wide flat blade type connectors, and usually have short wire lengths already attached that you just need to splice into the rest of the system.

And with a semi-standardized wiring code (on the generically known "Bosch-type" relays) using pin numbers #85, #86, #87 (and #87a too sometimes) and #30, just realizing they're simply a remotely controlled switch for your heavier or more distant loads, after the first one it's usually pretty straightforward.

Paul

 

[skerrybronco]

A bit more additional wiring perhaps, but pretty basic once you understand their workings. Luckily they just take the typical 1/4" wide flat blade type connectors, and usually have short wire lengths already attached that you just need to splice into the rest of the system.

And with a semi-standardized wiring code (on the generically known "Bosch-type" relays) using pin numbers #85, #86, #87 (and #87a too sometimes) and #30, just realizing they're simply a remotely controlled switch for your heavier or more distant loads, after the first one it's usually pretty straightforward.

Paul

thanks again Paul
You are a staple of information here, much appreciated.

Kerry