1974 bronco. I installed the Holley sniper and complete hyperspark ignition system. I have a 1 wire alternator. I have to connect 2 pink wires and 1 red wire to a 12v source. I tried to upload images but couldn’t figure it out so i will try to explain the best i can. I thought i had everything connected right but the sniper handheld will not power on. Right side fire wall has a pigtail with the 3 wires, black/yellow (not connected to anything) fusible link red/black (connected to + side of battery) , and green/red. I tried connecting the 2 pink and 1 red wire from the hyperspark system to the green/red and had no power to the sniper handheld. I disconnected the green/red wire trying to find another 12v source and when i turned the key to the on position i turned a little far and the motor turned over. So i am seriously confused. the rest of my wiring is as follows: relay passenger side big post cable going to alternator and + battery cable small post red/blue wire, drivers side big post cable to starter, small post brown wire. Thick yellow wire from horn relay going to + side of battery. Any help finding a hot source will be appreciated
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sniper help
- Thread starter brookfarr
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To post images directly you need to become a contributor for the 12 bucks a year. Well worth it, but in the meantime you can upload some images to your "garage" and/or "gallery" functions.
If you have high-res images you can send them to me via paulb@wildhorses4x4.com and I can post them up here for you. But pics will definitely help as I'm not sure I understand the whole thing.
For starters that Green w/red wire used to be for the voltage regulator with the old alternator. No longer used, but it should have power in the ON and START positions. It's the only wire anywhere on the right side that has power in both positions. It is NOT however, hot in ACC, so make sure you were not checking for power with the key in ACC.
The only other wire with power in ON and START is the Red w/black that does, or did go to the old ignition coil.
I'm guessing the pink wire (is it a tach signal or a keyed power for the Sniper?) needs power in both ON and START?
The large gauge Black wire should still be on the battery side of the starter relay. Sounds like it is, but wanted to make sure. If you have not already removed the old regulator, you can do it now to reduce confusion hopefully.
Not sure about any other wires, other than a medium sized Yellow wire that would be for a horn relay if your '74 has one. Since '74 was the first year for horn relays on Broncos it might have been a running change and an early one might not have one. If yours has one, then that's what the Yellow wire is for. The other (smaller) Yellow wire to the voltage regulator is no longer used unless you extended it over to the new internally regulated alternator. If it's actually a 1-wire alternator, you probably did not re-use the old yellow wire.
When you turned the key further than the ON position the starter cranked. That is normal, normally. What was it that confused you about that?
The Blue w/red stripe wire on the "S" post of the starter relay is the one that controls that. If you have an automatic transmission it goes through a neutral-safety switch on the transmission. Otherwise there is just a jumper wire there at the connector between the engine and firewall.
Good luck!
Paul
If you have high-res images you can send them to me via paulb@wildhorses4x4.com and I can post them up here for you. But pics will definitely help as I'm not sure I understand the whole thing.
For starters that Green w/red wire used to be for the voltage regulator with the old alternator. No longer used, but it should have power in the ON and START positions. It's the only wire anywhere on the right side that has power in both positions. It is NOT however, hot in ACC, so make sure you were not checking for power with the key in ACC.
The only other wire with power in ON and START is the Red w/black that does, or did go to the old ignition coil.
I'm guessing the pink wire (is it a tach signal or a keyed power for the Sniper?) needs power in both ON and START?
The large gauge Black wire should still be on the battery side of the starter relay. Sounds like it is, but wanted to make sure. If you have not already removed the old regulator, you can do it now to reduce confusion hopefully.
Not sure about any other wires, other than a medium sized Yellow wire that would be for a horn relay if your '74 has one. Since '74 was the first year for horn relays on Broncos it might have been a running change and an early one might not have one. If yours has one, then that's what the Yellow wire is for. The other (smaller) Yellow wire to the voltage regulator is no longer used unless you extended it over to the new internally regulated alternator. If it's actually a 1-wire alternator, you probably did not re-use the old yellow wire.
When you turned the key further than the ON position the starter cranked. That is normal, normally. What was it that confused you about that?
The Blue w/red stripe wire on the "S" post of the starter relay is the one that controls that. If you have an automatic transmission it goes through a neutral-safety switch on the transmission. Otherwise there is just a jumper wire there at the connector between the engine and firewall.
Good luck!
Paul
BPerry
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You are doing the complete Sniper setup? Coil, Ignition, Dizzy? Stock Starter Solenoid?
Don't over think it! Literally, there is a Positive and Negative battery connection and three wires that need to go to a 12v source engaged by the ignition that continues while cranking...
DD, did they ever send you any pic's?
BP
Don't over think it! Literally, there is a Positive and Negative battery connection and three wires that need to go to a 12v source engaged by the ignition that continues while cranking...
DD, did they ever send you any pic's?
BP
BPerry
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No worries, just trying to help the ole boy/girl out!
You have any issues with the site last night and this morning?
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Ok, here we go. Finally...
Images supplied by the OP including a Sniper diagram in case it helps anyone see what's going on
Uploaded the diagram as a thumbnail, while all others were full size. We'll see how that works.
And again, sorry for the delay brookfarr. Got sidetracked chasing some big fat juicy squirrels, which as often happens, turned out to be snipes instead!
Paul
Images supplied by the OP including a Sniper diagram in case it helps anyone see what's going on
Uploaded the diagram as a thumbnail, while all others were full size. We'll see how that works.
And again, sorry for the delay brookfarr. Got sidetracked chasing some big fat juicy squirrels, which as often happens, turned out to be snipes instead!
Paul
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A couple of quick observations. Are the main connections tight? Some look a bit loose, but that might be due to you taking the pictures while you were still fiddling about with things.
As a general practice, I like to see the main ground cable on the block itself, and not a cylinder head. It's not like the ground path can't travel through all those nice metal bolts of course. But it's just a better practice to get it down as close to the starter motor as is practical. We don't have the monetary constraints that Ford did, where every inch of cable and wire cost millions of dollars, so whenever you get a new cable you can buy one that actually reaches down to one of the starter bolts if it suits your needs.
And your engine ground is one of the things that looked loose in the pics, so I brought it up.
The Green w/red wire in the original post is clearly the one for the old regulator so there is no legit reason it should not work. Can you follow it into the harness (looks like you already opened up the tape to see) and find out where it's losing power? Maybe it's a simple thing.
For example I can't see where you have power to the rest of the truck connected. The Black w/yellow wire used to be connected to the old alternator, but the other end of that wire (it's one big long loop) would have come out of the firewall in that harness over there and run over to the battery side of the starter relay.
that's where everything gets it's power inside the cabin. Including the ignition switch, which might explain things at least partially.
You correctly disconnected the end at the alternator as no longer used. But the other end that went to the starter relay should have remained. Where you have your positive battery cable and presumably the new heavier gauge charge wire/cable from the new alternator.
is that the case?
Paul
As a general practice, I like to see the main ground cable on the block itself, and not a cylinder head. It's not like the ground path can't travel through all those nice metal bolts of course. But it's just a better practice to get it down as close to the starter motor as is practical. We don't have the monetary constraints that Ford did, where every inch of cable and wire cost millions of dollars, so whenever you get a new cable you can buy one that actually reaches down to one of the starter bolts if it suits your needs.
And your engine ground is one of the things that looked loose in the pics, so I brought it up.
The Green w/red wire in the original post is clearly the one for the old regulator so there is no legit reason it should not work. Can you follow it into the harness (looks like you already opened up the tape to see) and find out where it's losing power? Maybe it's a simple thing.
For example I can't see where you have power to the rest of the truck connected. The Black w/yellow wire used to be connected to the old alternator, but the other end of that wire (it's one big long loop) would have come out of the firewall in that harness over there and run over to the battery side of the starter relay.
that's where everything gets it's power inside the cabin. Including the ignition switch, which might explain things at least partially.
You correctly disconnected the end at the alternator as no longer used. But the other end that went to the starter relay should have remained. Where you have your positive battery cable and presumably the new heavier gauge charge wire/cable from the new alternator.
is that the case?
Paul
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Oh, and since you have so much new stuff here, I would for sure spend the extra couple of bucks and get a new heavier duty starter cable to run from the relay on the fender down to the starter. Your old one looks to have been replaced with a larger one already, but it's also showing signs of age with that patina of rust on the end lug. Might just be time to renew it in order to avoid problems.
And hope you don't introduce new problems with the new part!
So far we've only been talking about the Sniper, but does anything have power? What about headlights and heater motors and such?
(edit: nevermind, I re-read where you did get the starter to crank, so that means that the ignition switch does indeed have power. But I still wonder where it's coming from?)
Do you know where the Red, the Yellow and the Dark Blue wires go that are connected to the positive side of the battery?
Do you have an additional ground wire from the battery to the body? And from the engine to the body?
paul
And hope you don't introduce new problems with the new part!
So far we've only been talking about the Sniper, but does anything have power? What about headlights and heater motors and such?
(edit: nevermind, I re-read where you did get the starter to crank, so that means that the ignition switch does indeed have power. But I still wonder where it's coming from?)
Do you know where the Red, the Yellow and the Dark Blue wires go that are connected to the positive side of the battery?
Do you have an additional ground wire from the battery to the body? And from the engine to the body?
paul
BPerry
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As to the OEM wiring, Paul will be the man on that! On the Sniper, you should have 2 Positive and 2 Negative running to the battery, one set from the 7 pin from the Carb harness and one from the Ignition box.
If using the Hyperspark Dizzy, you will have one Pink wire and one Pink wire from the 7 pin that needs to go to 12v switched (as well Cranking). The I Post terminal would serve as that connection. " I used a fuse block for this connection" and ran power from the I Post.
You will also have a Red wire from the Ignition box with the White Point Output plug that needs to go to a 12v switched.
Not sure what fuel pump you are using, so I'll leave it here for now.
If using the Hyperspark Dizzy, you will have one Pink wire and one Pink wire from the 7 pin that needs to go to 12v switched (as well Cranking). The I Post terminal would serve as that connection. " I used a fuse block for this connection" and ran power from the I Post.
You will also have a Red wire from the Ignition box with the White Point Output plug that needs to go to a 12v switched.
Not sure what fuel pump you are using, so I'll leave it here for now.
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BPerry
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Additionally Paul, it's a long hike to Arkansas... but you are welcome to come pluck tree rats from the branches on the farm anytime! Lol
Bp
First thing - get a fuse installed on those two wires connected the the battery + terminal. You need to have a fuse as close to the battery as possible.
Yes the sniper has an in-line fuse but it’s far from the battery. Any short circuit on those +B wires between the power source and fuse will burn the wire, and possibly the entire truck.
Yes the sniper has an in-line fuse but it’s far from the battery. Any short circuit on those +B wires between the power source and fuse will burn the wire, and possibly the entire truck.
BPerry
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Come on out, we'll fry up some squirrel, gravy, n cat head biscuits... and Possum Pie of course!
Bp
Thanks to everyone that responded. Sorry for the late reply, been in the turkey woods. I retraced all the wires, replaced a few and found the green/red wire. Everything worked before the post like headlights, blinkers and wipers. I tested the green/red wire with the key on the on position and it has power. I grabbed some braided loom and I’m gonna finish it up tomorrow. I will become a contributor to this site and will post pics soon. Thanks again
BPerry
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Just make sure that source has power while cranking as well.
DD previously mentioned it should "if that's the exact wire he was referring to".
It's worth it, there is endless knowledge with these folks!
BP
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Of course! Mmmm, we just need to get the other member that had to stop Bronco work to make pizza for the clan to come over, and it's a party!
Could give possum pie a whole new twist!
Paul
BPerry
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Hell, just get 30 or more of the the crew together. Bring campers or tents, can have a Bronc Rally at the farm. 300+ miles of scenic drives around the homestead..
Bp
