Wilwood MC on Hydroboost

[ba123]

Yeah, I think he got that.

He realized he put the calipers on the wrong side.

 

[T4x4R]

Ok so done - sanity check. This correct?

 

[Wild horse 75]

That looks much better. Should be able to get the air out now.

 

[ba123]

Is the banjo block flat now too?

 

[pcf_mark]

Is the banjo block flat now too?

I want to know too!

You are doing great do not get discouraged. This is a complex upgrade and has a ton of parts you did the right thing asking questions - this group (unlike most the internet) is really helpful.

 

[ba123]

I want to know too!

You are doing great do not get discouraged. This is a complex upgrade and has a ton of parts you did the right thing asking questions - this group (unlike most the internet) is really helpful.

So well said, Mark! Amazing how much crao advice you can find in forums yet so many good knowledgable and helpful people here!

 

[Soylent]

I want to know too!

You are doing great do not get discouraged. This is a complex upgrade and has a ton of parts you did the right thing asking questions - this group (unlike most the internet) is really helpful.

And new copper crush washers?

 

[Bruners4]

One thing that I have also found with new lines and wheel cylinders / calipers is to open the bleeder screw first and then have someone depress the pedal a quick single push and hold down until the bleeder screw is closed. This non-pressurized volume of fluid helps to move stuck air bubbles along and out the bleeder screws. When I did brake rebuilds for a living, I only gravity bled the system. I'm also a big fan of the master cylinder bleeding process without using the external bleeder tubes. And yes it does take a special feel plus having the internal bypass hole as the highest point when bleeding.

 

[ba123]

There is nothing that compares to a pressure bleeder from the maater side. When I was young, I made one out of a pressure sprayer and a little older, got a Motive one.

No comparison, ever. It doesn't fail and if it did, you have a problem in your system.

Everyone has trouble needing the WH Hydroboost system. I bled it one time and my brakes rock. Made my own adapter from a Wilwood cap and an air hose attachment.

 

[gr8scott]

You have 2 copper washers on the outside. There should be one inside, one outside. And hopefully that block is flush to the caliper now.

 

[Sendero]

The people of the community will not be able to sleep until we know that banjo fitting is correct

 

[Shimmy]

that caliper is definitely not installed correctly. it appears your brake line into the caliper isn't seated properly either. shouldn't it be completely flush against the caliper? again this because your caliper is not in a vertical position

 

[T4x4R]

that caliper is definitely not installed correctly. it appears your brake line into the caliper isn't seated properly either. shouldn't it be completely flush against the caliper? again this because your caliper is not in a vertical position

Thank you everyone! OK, calipers have been re-positioned, copper washers inside and outside are correct now. Banjo Block is flush. brakes bled all the way around, not getting any air coming out (vacuum and manual bleeding) but there must be some still left in the system so back to it. I also bled the hyd boost following the monster mike video. super helpful. Believe I have that dialed in. The only thing im chasing now is I dont feel like the brake pedal feels like it should - I dont have a super hard pedal - it's firm, but not like my 56'. After the truck is running, the pedal gives little to no resistance, and is slow to return. Only thing I can think of is there is air in the lines somewhere. Any thoughts, or what have I screwed up.

 

[Shimmy]

if it still feels off and you dont have any leaks, then i think there is air somehow trapped in the MC.

 

[Wild horse 75]

Slow to return can be the return line to the P/S reservoir. If you can use a separate fitting. If you can’t make sure you carefully follow the instructions on how to install the tee. A Y fitting is better than a tee if you can get one. And the shorter the line after the tee the better.

 

[T4x4R]

Slow to return can be the return line to the P/S reservoir. If you can use a separate fitting. If you can’t make sure you carefully follow the instructions on how to install the tee. A Y fitting is better than a tee if you can get one. And the shorter the line after the tee the better.

So this might be the issue then. I just ordered a 90 degree elbow to fix the long bend.

Is this reservoir the wrong one. That tube seems extra small

 

[T4x4R]

if it still feels off and you dont have any leaks, then i think there is air somehow trapped in the MC.

Ugh. Bench bled it 4 times. Plus hooked up the tubes back into the MC and triple checked it before i hooked up the lines.

Any secrets? I put it in my vice, ran the tubes, depressed the plunger, angled it in all 4 axis, tapped on it etc

 

[Shimmy]

Ugh. Bench bled it 4 times. Plus hooked up the tubes back into the MC and triple checked it before i hooked up the lines.

Any secrets? I put it in my vice, ran the tubes, depressed the plunger, angled it in all 4 axis, tapped on it etc

4x? ok maybe that's not it? what are the odds that the hydroboost or something is faulty tho? another air pocket could be in the calipers

 

[Wild horse 75]

So this might be the issue then. I just ordered a 90 degree elbow to fix the long bend.

Is this reservoir the wrong one. That tube seems extra small

It looks to me like the steel line off the reservoir is kinked at one of the bends. That could be your problem with the slow return.

 

[T4x4R]

It looks to me like the steel line off the reservoir is kinked at one of the bends. That could be your problem with the slow return.

Yeah i noticed that as well when i installed it. Ill see if i can widen it w some vice grips or something.

Just to confirm though, that is the correct reservoir correct?