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Broken Oil Sender Extension
- Thread starter Lawndart
- Start date
BOBS 2 68S
Jr. Member
You might take the fuel pump off for even better access. You will need a 1/8-27 NPT tap to clean up the threads. Good Luck!
mattyv87
Jr. Member
- Joined
- May 15, 2011
- Messages
- 102
It depends how close you are to the threads. How much "meat" is left? It may still work if you're gentle but if it hasn't budged with the regular extractors you may have the same outcome. If you do decide to try the square extractor, try and find one that just fits the hole. Tedious job for sure. Just be patient.
Quick & Dirty
Sr. Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2004
- Messages
- 842
I would suggest using an oil pump priming tool after clearing the port to push any debris out.
Steve83
Bronco Guru
Same thoughts as when you were starting: use the BEST extractor - not necessarily the most-convenient to grab
You tell us.
I suspect broken engine mounts are a big part of why the Aluminum fatigues & cracks.
You should try to find the supplier of the stainless one I linked above - it's outstanding, and I've bought it on Amazon as low as $14. You can see it at the far Right of this pic:
(click this text)
Another cheap, easy, effective option is common plumbing fittings - I've been using them for decades without any problems.
(click this text)
I haven't bought them, but I suspect there are MANY other automotive versions that will work, like these:
I also came across a chrome one, but I'm not posting that link because I wouldn't put chrome on a lawn mower; much less a vehicle.
Obviously, the angled type is more-versatile since you can point it where you need it, but there are straight ones, including SS:
That only applies when both metals are exposed to the same electrolytic solution (i.e.; water or water with any salt or acid in it, including rain which picks up CO2 as it falls creating weak carbolic acid) as in a battery or on a boat. Coolant is supposed to inhibit that (if it's maintained properly) in the coolant system, but this is just oil - it can't create galvanic corrosion.
How many blocks have you seen with damage to that hole from a steel extension getting bent? Even the steel ones will break first because they're necked-down so abruptly, and the external threads make them easy to crack, too.
Any of the big ones should.
I was thinking about this as well. My plan was to eventually carefully vacuum it out with some vacuum hose and prime the engine. I see Melling has these. Do stock 1973 302s have 1/4″ hex shaft or 5/16″ hex shaft?
Extraction - round two
With not much material left, I decided to make one last Hail Mary attempt at extraction. Went with the largest bit I had - 3/8 drill extractor. I tapped it into the hole and started applying pressure. I think I saw the material turn with the extractor, hopefully not extruding. Just for good measure I gave the bit another tap and it went in just a little more. More pressure and yes, it is turning! Out it came!! I said a little prayer.
Thank you to everyone that has chimed it. Next up is cleanup. My plan is to cut a small angle into a length of vacuum hose and do a careful vacuum cleanup then prime the oil with the distributor out.
Of course I am trying to minimize the remaining aluminum particles and keep them from progressing into the engine. Is the above a good cleanup plan??
Do I understand correctly that from the oil pump, oil flows first to the filter then out from there (in this interest, to the oil sender passage). Correct?
Is there another exit to the oil sender passage (internal to the engine) where the oil sending unit installs? Or is there just the passage from the filter and the only exit out through the hole in the block?
Once cleaned, primed with oil and flowing out of the sender passage for a while, I assume install the new sender extension with sender (I got a steel one from North East Classic Ford), a start and an oil/filter change. How long would you run the engine before changing the oil/filter?
Thanks again!!
With not much material left, I decided to make one last Hail Mary attempt at extraction. Went with the largest bit I had - 3/8 drill extractor. I tapped it into the hole and started applying pressure. I think I saw the material turn with the extractor, hopefully not extruding. Just for good measure I gave the bit another tap and it went in just a little more. More pressure and yes, it is turning! Out it came!! I said a little prayer.
Thank you to everyone that has chimed it. Next up is cleanup. My plan is to cut a small angle into a length of vacuum hose and do a careful vacuum cleanup then prime the oil with the distributor out.
Of course I am trying to minimize the remaining aluminum particles and keep them from progressing into the engine. Is the above a good cleanup plan??
Do I understand correctly that from the oil pump, oil flows first to the filter then out from there (in this interest, to the oil sender passage). Correct?
Is there another exit to the oil sender passage (internal to the engine) where the oil sending unit installs? Or is there just the passage from the filter and the only exit out through the hole in the block?
Once cleaned, primed with oil and flowing out of the sender passage for a while, I assume install the new sender extension with sender (I got a steel one from North East Classic Ford), a start and an oil/filter change. How long would you run the engine before changing the oil/filter?
Thanks again!!
Clean-up and reassembly
Cleaned the hole with swabs lightly covered in grease. Chased the treads with a 1/4-18 tap with light grease and swabbed again until clean.
Removed dizzy and spun the pump with a drill.
Then reassembled everything.
I am thinking that I should just drain the oil and replace oil and filter.
Or should I start it for a bit and then change oil/filter??
Cleaned the hole with swabs lightly covered in grease. Chased the treads with a 1/4-18 tap with light grease and swabbed again until clean.
Removed dizzy and spun the pump with a drill.
Then reassembled everything.
I am thinking that I should just drain the oil and replace oil and filter.
Or should I start it for a bit and then change oil/filter??
Broncobowsher
Total hack
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2002
- Messages
- 35,464
Without doing a full engine rebuild, running the oil pump and pushing oil out the hole is the best cleaning you can do.
The factory left way more garbage than that in the engine when it was built anyway. You will be fine.
The factory left way more garbage than that in the engine when it was built anyway. You will be fine.
Steve83
Bronco Guru
I think you really OVER-did the cleanup. I'd have spun the pump shaft for a second just to get a few drips of oil out of the threads - not a stream. I'm saying: it's good.
(click this text)
(click this text)
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2011
- Messages
- 1,858
Or if you ever want to install a aftermarket gauge alongside the stock gauge:
www.summitracing.com
Scott Drake C2OZ-9B339-DP Scott Drake Oil Pressure Sending Extensions | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Scott Drake Oil Pressure Sending Extensions with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fittings and Adapters at Summit Racing.
ntsqd
heratic car camper
I just remote mount them. Best pic that I have of it, you'd think after all of these years that I'd take a better pic:
1/8" copper tube adapter in the block. Can barely see the tube above the oil filter. The switch above the spring bucket is the oil pressure kill switch for the electric fuel pump. It is in the 'T' bolted to the inside face of the shock mount and the pressure sender is on the other branch of the 'T' behind the shock mount.
1/8" copper tube adapter in the block. Can barely see the tube above the oil filter. The switch above the spring bucket is the oil pressure kill switch for the electric fuel pump. It is in the 'T' bolted to the inside face of the shock mount and the pressure sender is on the other branch of the 'T' behind the shock mount.
Certainly, I over did itI think you really OVER-did the cleanup. I'd have spun the pump shaft for a second just to get a few drips of oil out of the threads - not a stream. I'm saying: it's good.
(click this text)
Thanks for your help.
Next time the extension is out, I will likely go that way - thanks.Or if you ever want to install a aftermarket gauge alongside the stock gauge:
Scott Drake C2OZ-9B339-DP Scott Drake Oil Pressure Sending Extensions | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Scott Drake Oil Pressure Sending Extensions with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fittings and Adapters at Summit Racing.
View attachment 928805
I wanted to go this route, however the one I looked at was 1/8 NPT and the hole in my block is 1/4 NPT.
Epilogue
Back on the road with 100 miles done. The sender was leaking a bit, so I picked up a new one and installed it. We'll see.
Be careful with your 50+ year old aluminum extension. There is weight out on the end and I have swapped in a couple sender units over my ownership. I wouldn't go back to aluminum.
Square extractors are the way to go, certainly with a through hole.
Thank you to all that replied, it was helpful and much appreciated. Cheers!
Timely. I just noticed a major oil drip under the Bronco and traced it to the oil pressure extension. The best price I could find was on eBay for a steel one. I might end up replacing the sending unit as well.
Best of luck!
The new sender I got from NAPA read too high. I purchased a Motorcraft branded one from RockAuto and it seems fine. Well, fine for now…
