Waiting for some clarification about the bleeding process (if different than normal that is) with the newer style calipers we use. As said, I have personally never bled calipers with two bleeders, but your assumption that you only need to do the upper sounds very reasonable. Valid reasoning, but when in doubt, I would do all four anyway. At least in a cursory manner, to make sure that there is not an air pocket hiding in a dark corner.
And how are the rear brakes? Are the pads up tight against the rotors? Do you have the parking brake mechanism hooked up? If so, apply it a few clicks just to see if the main pedal tightens up a bit. Lots of slop can come from the rear brakes.
But what about "feel" when pushing the pedal with the engine on? When it gets to the bottom, is it firm? Or does it start spongy, and then work it's way to the bottom?
If it's spongy, then there is either something flexing terribly, or there is still air in the system.
If it goes hard and the brakes are working, then there is something with the linkage that is not right. Even if we assembled it before shipping, I would still test that theory.
Maybe pull the master forward enough to see if the booster rod is adjusted far enough out to touch the piston. The flexible lines should allow this easily hopefully.
But check the rear brakes too, if you have not already.
I could be wrong about this next thing, but if your measurement is correct, that 2 inches of pedal travel with the engine off sounds excessive to me. Sorry, not excessive necessarily, but more than normal.
Usually with the engine off, you don’t even get a half an inch to maybe an inch, until it's rock hard with nowhere to go. And with a 6 to 1 pedal ratio or whatever it is, whatever you see initially is multiplied six-fold after after that.
And last but not least, did you follow the video, or any paper instructions that might have been with the kit?
Just checking!
Paul
