Limited slip differential installation.

[jamesroney]

Most Broncos are 1310 however Ford or parts swapping in the past was notorious for slipping in a 1330.

Warning:
Nerdy technical overload data dump ensuing

There is basically no ultimate torque strength between 1310 and 1330, they use the same cup as bearing. However due to the cross being wider on the 1330 it does have a slightly higher continuous torque load over a 1310. In my opinion it is not worth making the switch as an up grade, if you have 1330 parts use them, if you have 1310 use those. If an upgrade is desired go to 1350.

Well, let's get geeky...

The universal joint has 3 fundamental failure parameters at nominal angle. Continuous Torque, Short Duration Torque, and Minimum Elastic Limit. These are Spicer Dana terms, so I like to use them. (Keep in mind that the Spicer Minimum Elastic Limit includes Brinneling at the needle...which usually happens sooner than failure of the yoke cross.)

joint: Cont: Short: MEL:
1310: 130 - 800 - 1020
1330: 150 - 890 - 1840
1350: 210 - 1240- 2210
units in lb-ft.

So for the 1310 to the 1330:
There is a significant increase in ultimate torque strength
There is a slight increase in continuous torque.

That being said, there is nothing that a 1330 gets you that a 1350 doesn't do better. So if you are paying to upgrade, I am 100% with @Yeller But if you are collecting junkyard parts, it's often easier to find a 1330CV yoke out of a 78-79 Bronco.

I just bought a Flanged 1350 CV shaft for my LJ. Wow. Prices have gone way up. Thanks Brandon.

 

[ntsqd]

I've a rear D44 that has a worn yoke and the advice that I was just given was to move from the weirdness that was Jeep in the early 70's to a 1310 yoke when I redo the rear driveshaft after the whole power-train swap. Recalling this thread I looked up if a 1330 and/or a 1350 yoke was available, and they both are, but no 1330 yoke for the 241. In the process I see that there are two different bearing cap OD's in the 1330, and they differ by a substantial amount. At least if the Denny's page is to be believed. I'm not sure that a Family Truckster needs a 1350 rear drive-shaft, but if I do ever manage to get that Airstream I might want it.

 

[Lawndart]

Damn, maybe I scanned this thread too quickly.
Back in the day -let me clear my throat baby pop- we just dropped the d-shaft, popped the axles on each side and swapped pumpkins.
Then - drive like hooligans. We survived and rarely broke things.

 

[Nothing Special]

As others have said, it's simplest to buy a new 3rd member that already has the gears set up and just stick it in.

My general answer to people who ask "Can I set up gears myself?" is "if you have to ask you probably can't do it." It's not that it's impossible to learn how to do it, there are tons of on-line resources to help you figure out what you need to do. But it's incredibly putzy, with lots of trial and error for those of us who aren't already good at it. I've done it twice now (after chickening out the first 3 or 4 times). But you have to go into it knowing you have the general skills and patience to figure it out or you'll probably end up either quitting and taking it to someone else to finish.

On the helical gear-type limited slip vs a clutch-type limited slip, personally I find clutch-type limited slips the worst of both worlds: they work pretty much like an open differential when you need more traction, but they work pretty much like a spool when you are on snow or ice and are trying to not spin out. I know others don't hate them, but they are absolutely my last choice for any application.

I have a TrueTrac in the rear of my pickup. I really like that, but I don't quite love it. It's not as positive as a locker, and I generally like automatic lockers (But I know a lot of others don't). Still, a TrueTrac is almost completely invisible on the street and it does help quite a bit with traction in most situations. So I think it's a good option.

 

[jamesroney]

I've a rear D44 that has a worn yoke and the advice that I was just given was to move from the weirdness that was Jeep in the early 70's to a 1310 yoke when I redo the rear driveshaft after the whole power-train swap. Recalling this thread I looked up if a 1330 and/or a 1350 yoke was available, and they both are, but no 1330 yoke for the 241. In the process I see that there are two different bearing cap OD's in the 1330, and they differ by a substantial amount. At least if the Denny's page is to be believed. I'm not sure that a Family Truckster needs a 1350 rear drive-shaft, but if I do ever manage to get that Airstream I might want it.

It's worse than you think. The 1310 and 1330 both have a 1-1/16 diameter cap. BUT...

The "big cap" 1330 is almost as big as the 1350. It is the same 3-5/8 wide, but has a 1-1/8 diameter cap, instead of 1-3/16. It is also called the "1330 Ford joint" because it is often used in F250's of the era.

The aftermarket has come up with a number of different solutions with regard to 1330, 1330F, and 1350. If you go back and reference my torque figures above, you can imagine that a 1330 cross with a big cap would be the same strength as a 1330. (meaning weak) But if you ask an engineer to give you a "conversion joint" that is 1330/1350...you will get a 1330 sized cross on half, and a 1350 sized cross on the other half. It's really stupid, because 1/2 of the joint cannot be stronger than the other half. But...they give you what you asked for. So you get 1330 capacity on one side, and 1350 capacity on the other side...and you pay double. On the other hand...if you ask for a 1330 joint with the big cap...you get an F250 manual transmission rear driveshaft u-joint.

A spicer 5213x is 1330 on both sides, and costs $13.86 at Rock Auto
A spicer 51204x is 1330 on one side, and 1330F on the other. it costs $15.91
A spicer 5178x is 1350 on both sides, and costs $17.41.
A spicer 5648x is a 1330/1350 conversion joint, and it will cost you $27.78.

So watch out for the oddball Ford pinion yoke that is bigger than 1330, but smaller than 1350.

I'm a little lost on your 241 yoke. I have a couple of NP241's but mine are Rubicon cases. The output shaft of the 241 will accept the yoke from the NP205. and 1330 CV is native to the 78 Bronco. I couldn't find a 1350 CV yoke for the 241 except as a flange.

 

[ntsqd]

Denny's lists both a Ø1.063" cap and a Ø1.125" cap for the 1330. I've no idea where the discrepancy lays, but since I can't easily find a 1330 yoke for the 241 it is of no further concern.

I wouldn't mind drive flanges or Companion Flanges on both ends, but Spicer charges a premium for them that I'm not willing to pay. At least not on this project.