Traction Bar Options

[Torkman66]

Figured I should start a dedicated thread on this topic. There are several from the past, but it might be good to hear any current experiences. A few folks have warned about axle wrap issues especially if removing any rear leaf springs to level truck. I also have learned that there are several great solutions but they pretty much all require welding to the axle and frame. In my case, this would be a "end of restoration add" and my rear axle housing is already powder coated as well as my frame. So I would be looking for a possible bolt-on option.

My Bronco is pretty much a highway driver and will never see off-roading. It has a 365hp engine, C4, 4:10 gears, 2.5" SL (2 leaves removed), and 33s.

1. Do I need to be concerned about axle wrap given the above context?
2. If so, what bolt on options will work (Duffs has one option) and will it help given my configuration?

Thanks!

 

[catfan]

Here's mine I sell , the F-100 guys have been buying them and gave me good feedback.

Early Bronco Old Style Traction Bars (Red Bushings) 66-77 Ford (Fits F-100) New | eBay

The rods are 1" steel.

www.ebay.com

 

[Scoop]

I went from an 8-pack to 5 leafs and looks like you are going from an 11-pack to 9?? My basically stock Mustang efi engine is probably closer to 200 hp and my axle wrap was pretty severe. (Full disclosure - I also have a doubler that increases my torque.) So if you still have 9 out of 11 the tendency for axle wrap is probably less than mine . . . BUT . . . then you throw in 365 hp!! I think it would be money spent wisely!

As I added to your previous thread the WH Wrap Trap is another option. Both the Duff's and the WH versions would work well for you.

 

[Broncobowsher]

The softer the rear springs, the more a torque control devise is a good idea.
My preference is based on design, not brand. The single arm with a shackle at the frame side works great. They allow the soft springs, to still be soft springs. But keeps the pinion from climbing, binding the driveshaft U-joint, blowing it out.

 

[Torkman66]

@catfan your bars look interesting. The diff between yours and duffs is how the arm mounts at the front spring hanger. Duffs rod goes through hole in flat plate with bushings similar to a shock mount. Yours use a side mount bolt system. Both systems appear to work exactly the same in terms of countering wrap and providing reinforcement to springs “s” bending. There is however a difference in the two in terms of possible change in ride, I think. Check my logic here…when the rear axle hits a bump the traction bar moves up with the leaf stack at the axle. The arm of the bar is rotating clockwise at the hanger bracket. Duffs would seem to make the ride harder/stiffer in that their hanger mount would compresses the bushings inside the hole. Yours however would allow the arm to actually rotate without introducing any tension. So I think what I’m saying is that your design will deal equally with wrap as the duff design but your design will not negatively affect the ride when axle travels because the way you attach at the hanger end allows the rod to rotate. I think yours are better in that case. Does this make sense?

 

[catfan]

@catfan your bars look interesting. The diff between yours and duffs is how the arm mounts at the front spring hanger. Duffs rod goes through hole in flat plate with bushings similar to a shock mount. Yours use a side mount bolt system. Both systems appear to work exactly the same in terms of countering wrap and providing reinforcement to springs “s” bending. There is however a difference in the two in terms of possible change in ride, I think. Check my logic here…when the rear axle hits a bump the traction bar moves up with the leaf stack at the axle. The arm of the bar is rotating clockwise at the hanger bracket. Duffs would seem to make the ride harder/stiffer in that their hanger mount would compresses the bushings inside the hole. Yours however would allow the arm to actually rotate without introducing any tension. So I think what I’m saying is that your design will deal equally with wrap as the duff design but your design will not negatively affect the ride when axle travels because the way you attach at the hanger end allows the rod to rotate. I think yours are better in that case. Does this make sense?

Yes those spear type ones eat up the bushing and are prone to break. I also have a bushing welded to the front plate to strenghten
it , the bolt doesn't just go thru the plate. At the back I made those out of 3/8" .

 

[Torkman66]

@Broncobowsher the shackle basically allows rotation upon axle travel correct? The arms @catfan sells seem to allow rotation using a heim joint which would allow rotation preserving ride quality. Does that sound right?

 

[Soylent]

Here's mine I sell , the F-100 guys have been buying them and gave me good feedback.

http://[URL]https://www.ebay.com/it...d=link&campid=5335857059&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

[/URL]

Are there any negatives to this design? Are the small bolts that mount the plates grade 8 and not zinc coated big box store bolts? Once the plates are mounted you unscrew the heim end until it fits while vehicle sitting at ride height? This is interesting. I have a torque tamer that isn’t mounted as the mechanic welded the bracket on the 9” while suspension was hanging on a lift. So I would have to have it cut off and new one welded correctly.

 

[Torkman66]

@catfan I have 2 questions. First, why is there a second hole below hanger mount where bushing is welded on?
Second, I have the extreme 5/8” ubolts What size holes are on the axle mount plate?

 

[catfan]

Are there any negatives to this design? Are the small bolts that mount the plates grade 8 and not zinc coated big box store bolts? Once the plates are mounted you unscrew the heim end until it fits while vehicle sitting at ride height? This is interesting. I have a torque tamer that isn’t mounted as the mechanic welded the bracket on the 9” while suspension was hanging on a lift. So I would have to have it cut off and new one welded correctly.

The negative is if off roading it limits wheel travel but for pavement it works fine. The small bolts I use are grade 2 but 4 per plate
would be stronger than the plate its self . The bolts thru the heim and the rear bracket are grade 8.

 

[catfan]

@Scoop I have 2 questions. First, why is there a second hole below hanger mount where bushing is welded on?
Second, I have the extreme 5/8” ubolts What size holes are on the axle mount plate?

Is this question for me , the second is just another adjustment if you want to lower the bar. On the second part I make
them to fit 1/2 or 9/16 u-bolt . They can be drilled out to fit 5/8" .

 

[Torkman66]

Thanks. Ordered.

 

[Scoop]

I'm glad y'all figured all the @Scoop stuff out!! LOL

 

[widowmaker77]

Here's mine I sell , the F-100 guys have been buying them and gave me good feedback.

http://[URL]https://www.ebay.com/it...d=link&campid=5335857059&toolid=20001&mkevt=1

[/URL]

I was checking these out. So im assuming you drill through the rear hanger to
Mount the plate? Or weld?

 

[Broncobowsher]

@Broncobowsher the shackle basically allows rotation upon axle travel correct? The arms @Scoop sells seem to allow rotation using a heim joint which would allow rotation preserving ride quality. Does that sound right?

what the shackle does is allow for a change in length as the suspension cycles. Running an arm roughly the same length as the driveshaft it will pretty much lock in the pinion angle. If the arm was just a pivot (no shackle) at the frame side there would be considerable binding as the leaf spring moves the axle in one arc while the arm is in another. Binding up the rear suspension. The shackle does for the arm what the slip yoke does for the driveshaft.

The leaf springs are now just holding the weight, controlling lateral and longitudinal locations. But no longer are being asked to axle torque, that is not controlled by the arm.

 

[Torkman66]

That makes sense. There is a lot of geometry and tremendous forces at play. More than I ever thought. I saw the ones you built. Very nice. Next bronco I will do the same. Thank you.

 

[catfan]

I was checking these out. So im assuming you drill through the rear hanger to
Mount the plate? Or weld?

That is correct.

 

[Torkman66]

A few folks have commented that adding the spring mounted traction bars like @catfan and Duffs sell will stiffen the suspension. That makes sense given that the arms are fixed and there will be some stress introduced to the system when the leaves are compressed up (or down) from normal position. Since the axle actually moves up and back in a slight arc due to the rear shackle absorbing the increased length of the top leaves, the torsion bar, being a fixed length, will pull against the leaf trying to move back. I believe that is where the stiffer ride will be produced. However, it appears that axle wrap normally occurs during a hard acceleration when the tires have friction with the ground, the gears are aggressively engaged, and torque is at a high point. In that situation (say a floored start from a stopped position) there is little to no suspension at play so the length of the bar is inconsequential. It appears that the fixed traction bar will take care of axle wrap but has the negative connotation of stiffing up the ride when encountering suspension engagement (bumps). Probably an acceptable way to deal with axle wrap in a street only application but not the way to go in any type of offroad application. Thoughts?

Once I get them installed I'll report back on how the ride changes (if it does).

 

[AZ73]

Timely post. Just ordered, thanks!

 

[gnsteam]

I have the Duff's, bolt on Torque Tamer kit. Before installation, I was driving my Bronco with the Duff Tuff 2.5" lift installed. After adding the Torque Tamer. I could feel the difference in acceleration. Rear seemed more planted and firm. I did not feel much change in the suspension as to ride comfort. At that time my Bronco, was stock 302/C4. So not a lot of power there. And I did not test anything off road.