Wiring Quandary

[DirtDonk]

Thanks Oldtimer. I was actually looking for that spade connector, but couldn’t see it.
So it looked to me like the big stud was already jumpered to the motor stud.
I believe you’re correct.

Did any instructions come with your starter Swailsd?

 

[Swailsd]

Need to wire the starter like a Chevy.
The big stud on solenoid needs constant 12v direct from battery source.
There is a smaller stud with spade contact on solenoid that needs start signal from ignition switch.
I would not pull that much current directly from ignition switch.
Use the Ford starter relay on fender to trigger solenoid on starter.

View attachment 941388

Oldtimer I’m not doubting this AT ALL because I really know nothing about this, but it seems this way is using one solenoid to trigger the other on which seems redundant. Can u elaborate on this more please?

 

[Swailsd]

Thanks Oldtimer. I was actually looking for that spade connector, but couldn’t see it.
So it looked to me like the big stud was already jumpered to the motor stud.
I believe you’re correct.

Did any instructions come with your starter Swailsd?

I’ll have to look when I get home, I’m in south ga so the time change is a bit off for us

 

[Oldtimer]

Read this post, and refer to below schematics copied from it:

More efficient starting method than solenoid?

A Bosch/Tyco/ISO cube relay rated for 30A can't operate a starter that draws a nominal 140A. Post pics showing the relay you're using & how exactly it's wired in. Good to know, but it's still a flawed design because tightening the main lugs causes the internal contacts to mis-align. From my...

classicbroncos.com

Quoted from above post:
"And even though the solenoid draws less current than the starter motor, it still draws too much for the ignition switch, which is why a starter relay is still required. If you're going to use that style of starter, you should use the matching circuit."

 

[Swailsd]

Read this post, and refer to below schematics copied from it:

http://[URL]https://classicbroncos....thod-than-solenoid.325789/page-2#post-3571747

[/URL]

Quoted from above post:
"And even though the solenoid draws less current than the starter motor, it still draws too much for the ignition switch, which is why a starter relay is still required. If you're going to use that style of starter, you should use the matching circuit."

View attachment 941422

*So I would just swap my existing starter cable to the battery side of the fender mounted relay and run the jumper/start wire to the starter side of that same relay from the small post on the solenoid on the starter itself. *Sounds easy enough.
*Although now I will have 3 large cables connected to the battery side of the fender mounted relay and the painless 916 wire that the main power for the harness. *hopefully the studs are long enough

 

[DirtDonk]

That’s been a long-standing problem. Tight quarters on the stud.
Some later model starter relays had longer studs. Not sure what brands or models might be an improvement.
Then again, that’s another argument for a separate power stud mounted nearby to take the excess.

Many people have used alternate wiring schemes, including leaving the main cable where you have it, and running a secondary smaller wire to the small connector. Or a short secondary small wire directly from the large stud on the starter to the adjacent blade connector on the starter.
Both of these have been used with varying results. Some people claim to have zero problems, while others have momentary starter run-on issues.
The standard accepted method, however, is to do it as Oldtimer described.

 

[Swailsd]

That’s been a long-standing problem. Tight quarters on the stud.
Some later model starter relays had longer studs. Not sure what brands or models might be an improvement.
Then again, that’s another argument for a separate power stud mounted nearby to take the excess.

Many people have used alternate wiring schemes, including leaving the main cable where you have it, and running a secondary smaller wire to the small connector. Or a short secondary small wire directly from the large stud on the starter to the adjacent blade connector on the starter.
Both of these have been used with varying results. Some people claim to have zero problems, while others have momentary starter run-on issues.
The standard accepted method, however, is to do it as Oldtimer described.

*I do have the new 3 stud pancake style relay so the studs are a little longer than the normal relay so maybe they’ll work if I flip one or 2
*On another note I’ll be using the painless 919 red/blue neutral safety switch wire for my switched source on the small stud on the relay? Is this acceptable?

 

[DirtDonk]

It’s the only way. That’s what that wire is there for.

By the way, as long as you don’t have a positive going to ground, or a ground going to a positive power source, you’re not gonna burn anything down.
The worst that could happen if the starter is hooked up wrong, is that as soon as you connect the battery, the starter will crank.
But you’ll know that immediately, and can disconnect the battery until the problem is corrected.
And as long as you’re not in gear when that happens, nothing bad is gonna happen, except the starter will spin.
Same for if there is something wrong with the red with blue 919 wire, the only two things that could happen would be, either the starter spins as soon as you turn the key, or the starter doesn’t spin at all.
No melting, no kaboom, and no smoke.

When you first get things connected and tested, as part of the testing procedures, it’s always good to immediately verify that the starter does not crank when in gear. Only in neutral and park.
Confirming that the neutral safety switch is indeed good. Not just new…

 

[Swailsd]

Thanks for everyone’s responses. I truly appreciate it and I’ll probably have more ignorant questions shortly, but with y’all’s help I’m sure to get through it
Thanks

 

[DirtDonk]

You got this. Can’t wait to hear that it cranked up!
By the way, when I said, no melting and no smoke, I meant “in theory“ and “if nothing else is crazy wrong“ and stuff like that!
You know… Normal Bronco stuff!