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Before you order tires make sure you have clearance for the addition width. You may want to get metric tires since they make narrower widths with similar heights. Like you can find a 34.5x10.7 kind of thing.

I was going to put the Holley LIDAR sender in a tank just because I thought it was something new with no moving parts. But a quick google search found many people having issues with it either not reading or not reading correctly. Went with the ISSPRO sender that was closest for the custom tank I...

I believe the bracket is suppose to go on the adjuster. The nut has a recess machined into it for the u-bolt.

I would also check your flex plate. Something had to give when you bolted it all up and locked it up. I wouldn’t be surprised to find you bent it.

Typical Chinese practice.

Very nice. Seeing this makes me more mad about the body I purchased.

I’m not sure which hoses they are but you need to have circulation on the heater hoses all the time or you’ll overheat the heads. That’s why there’s an H block in them. You won’t want to just loop them since the flow will be too much.

We always ran dual 2.5” on 5.0L mustangs. Your single may be too small but I have a feeling you put a cheap cat on it and that’s your big restriction. There are huge differences in cats. Cheap ones make up for lack of precious metals with lots of substrate to slow the exhaust down to give the...

They don’t tighten those bolts because you’re suppose to put something on the gasket and then tighten the bolts. I’ve used aviation form a gasket on anything gasket water related for years and never had a leak. It can be messy but it works.

You may just need to drive it a bit so the computer can get use to the new exhaust. It may also be time for a tune up and the new exhaust has just magnified that fact. I spent many years working on 5.0L mustangs. I’ve done thousands of exhaust kits on them and they can all react differently.

I remember mine fitting something like that. They will bend into place as you tighten the bolts.

I wonder if priming over the seam sealer after 24 hours would help adhesion in the future. I know you don’t have much free time but getting back in the garage for a half hour to spray some primer over the seams should be doable. Just a thought. And since I might be doing the same looking to see...

You should be able to still used the explorer MAF. As for the TPS you should be able to use the cobra sensor and plug then just connect the explorer wires to the right terminals. TPS sensors are just sweeping resistors. Power ground and signal. You will need to calibrate everything though. The...

Pull the top off and check. Sounds like you probably have a torn diaphragm but it’s possible it’s folded over or something easy to fix. You need to look before you can get a replacement anyway when you let areomotive know.

Use a busbar. Run one large cable to it then distribute from there.

There would be a switch with 2 sets of terminals down near where it goes through the column. On set will be the NSS and the other the reverse lights. You'd only have it if this is a column with the shifter mounted to it.

You can’t just tighten one bolt then move on to the next. It’s a constant “fight” to keep tightening the bolts and not let the arms come up. That’s why you move around so much. If it was metal on metal you can just go ham but because you’re tightening on a bushing you need to get up the squish...

I would try and get it perfect. Loosen the caps a bit until they’re both touching then tighten them slowly and watch. Move around constantly. Left to right top and bottom.

Does the steering column have the GM switch on it? If it does you can use that instead.

That’s pretty much what I would do. Extend the bottom of the inner fender down to the same height at the bottom of the fender. It’ll force a ton of air up into that cavity.