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I hope you mean oil not gasoline.

Dakota digital makes an auto control for the vintage air systems. They install sensors in all the ducts to measure temp coming out of the box and adjust accordingly.

Oh man I could really use this.

I have a feeling it has to do with suspension droop. I would install the frame end first. Then the axle end. Then you should be able to adjust it to centre the diff in the frame.

Handheld impact driver. Something like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-impact-screwdriver-kit-9-piece-58151.html i can’t speak to the quality of that particular one I just grabbed it to show you. I have a snap-on one that works gang busters.

I would use this for that elbow: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-2813

That I haven’t been able to find. I know there are a few shops out there that make their own for the krawlers edge cage but I only know of one that sell them For that cage.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rpe-98417 This says it’s the rampage spice soft top.

I’ve got a 2.5” duff kit on a throttle down kustoms frame. Everything bolted up easily. I had to drill out the front leaf spring bolts and the frame side for the track bar. Had a bit of a struggle getting the arms in but I was working by myself with the frame hung from a crane and diff on tires...

The best would be to unpin a connector and replace the terminals after you shorten it. The fewer connections in the wire the less places for corrosion and resistance.

While not common I have had head gaskets fail in such a way that they leak oil like a sieve. It will run down the seam between the head and block and look like it’s the intake but it isn’t. I would also look at resealing your oil pressure sender and fuel pump. The pump itself can also leak oil.

Are you seeing an RPM signal during cranking? Are you sure the coil is good? New doesn’t always mean good. Testing with a known good coil is always a good idea. If you don’t have a known good coil you can force this one to make a spark by pretending to be a set of points and using a spark tester...

Throw out the end seals, they don’t work. Personally I use The Right Stuff. I run a small bead around each water port and connect that to the bead that I run on the ends.

I just picked you over $2k in parts from the states. Brought it in myself and only had to pay taxes. Was told when I was there paying there wasn’t a tariff on auto parts but it could come at any day. Sounds like the shipping company screwed you. I started using a package place in a border town...

Almost touching isn’t touching lol. I would mark where it’s close then take the header off. You can grind down the rib on the bell housing and put a small notch in the flange and give it a bunch more clearance. 1/4” is plenty. Those parts all move together so you don’t have to worry about them...

You can get a shorter belt and temporarily bypass it to drive home.

Looks like it would be pretty simple to fab one out of aluminum or stainless.

My wife has the first eruption green bronco in our area. The dealership was so impressed with the colour they’ve ordered several more for stock in the years since. The gold flop when the sun hits it is so nice. People constantly comment on it.

Not sure what your plan is for a rear diff vent but now would be the time to attach it if you’re mounting it to the rear brake line bracket on the frame. I would also check the routing of those fuel flex lines. You don’t want the diff to come up and hit them. It looks like you could easily clock...

I plan on running my regulator back there as well. I won’t leave a gauge on it though. Those things are just too fragile to leave exposed to any elements. It’s easy enough to install one, set the pressure then remove it. A small vacuum line is cheaper to run than a return line as well.