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i cleaned the maf, and my timing is at 10 with the spud? disconected. and for the o2, its 4 inches after the collector on the shorties. I made it a 2 hour drive and then a 3 hour drive yesterday and today. its doing good except every now and then it cuts off for a split second then comes back...

I did the ground test and everything's good And I have 40 psi when idling then 32 when giving it some gas

I am 99% sure I got all the vacuum leaks out, that was a prior problem, but it's worth a shot to spray around again

okay ill do that and see what it does

also I just read this link.. http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/tipsPDF/EFISystemTips.pdf would this make it run the way it is? I am going to do that test tomorrow morning and see what it says

which wires are you talking about? the actual connector or the wire mesh inside of the housing? i dont recall this one having that mesh on it

here is all the info i have on the maf and for the egr, I got it with it all blocked off so i just left it

I ran the codes and nothing more that egr things come up, i think they are yellow. its a reman stock unit

oh and new o2 sensors on shorty headers too

its the e303, here is all the specs of the motor. http://fordracingparts123.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_97&products_id=529 it doesnt idle smooth and always smells like gas and almost drives like it has a miss, just not smooth and it seems like it should have way more power...

Hey guys, Ive been posting a lot of questions lately, sorry about that but I have fixed a lot of things but still the efi isnt running good. No matter what I do, i have all new sensors and everything on a new crate engine. But now im thinking, this engine has the aluminum heads and a cam in it...

alright thanks, I know people do something with the second gear shift at a stop light but i didnt see any easy buttons to do that..

Do you have any tips for tuning the shift points? I have tried but was lost and gave up

I got it all apart without a press or anything, it all came out with a hammer and socket, didnt think it would be too hard to put it together the same way, but I think my dad brought the rest to a shop for them to press it together

yes between the bearing and the inner aluminum housing. the yellow outline is where it goes.

I will know wednesday if everything is good, Im going back to test it and hopefully finally bring it back with me. Good luck with the rest of your 4r swap! the rest was pretty easy Evan

hey all, my dad just called and said he got the tcase back in and filled up 7 quarts plus whatever was still in there and there aren't any leaks! Hes going to get the rest of it done tomorrow and take if for a drive to make sure but I think we finally found what was wrong. all this frustration...

Just an update, I fixed some bad wires and it starts now but haven't been able to drive it, wrong seals, finally ordered the right one. My brother needed the garage so the bronco got kicked to outside.. I'll be back home in a couple weeks and try to get it done finally. It still doesn't run...

I have a newer style engine with the ho fire order, but for other people I don't really know? I traced some problems down to bad wiring under the dash and it was running a bit better but still not great, I want to try a new ecu but don't want to spend the money on it

I would like to be working on the bronco but they dont let you work on cars here at all, im bored now! But It only took about 30 min to take out the 20 and pull it apart to the seal. Saves some time and money, that oil is expensive, have spilt all the oil twice now...