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went to go listen to the sound today and its gone for now

Did this, can't really notice in the primaries but can hear it in the collector on both sides, couldn't hear it on the timing cover. It is pretty audible in the fuel rail, I have tried disconnecting some of the injectors I can reach but that's only like one. Putting it on each individual...

I did this, there was no noticeable change in sound. I did, I couldn't hear any difference

I did find an exhaust leak but it wasnt the sound I am looking for. I have eliminated so many leaks and sounds if it wasn't for this tapping the thing would sound electric.

I'll give the wet rags a shot before I pull it apart. Thanks for the suggestion.

Double checked for exhaust leaks this afternoon, as far as I can tell leaks are not causing the sound. This weekend or next I'll probably pull the engine to inspect the flex plate and bottom end unless someone has a better or different suggestion

yeah, that's what i assumed but it doesn't look like I would actually be able to see to where its attaching to the crank without pulling the transmission. the mirror and light reminds me, i was using an led flash light to inspect, were not allowed to use led flash lights with inspection at work...

uploaded a video of the sound to youtube

I was able to pull the transmission inspection plate and see the flexplate, all the torque converter nuts were pretty dang tight but i was able to tighten one up a little bit, that made no difference in sound. is there any way to tell if the flexplate is cracked without pulling the...

I haven't had loose ones but the ones that came with my tci torque converter when matched up with a tci flexplate caused them to hit the block on my ls1. I don't think it's the case with this sound but I'm going to look anyway, if I can't find an exhaust leak or loose torque converter nut idk...

I thought I updated it, I have oil pressure again. I guess maybe I didn't give it enough time when I was priming it before. still at around 50ishpsi cold idle and 20ish hot idle all the way up to around 50ish hot bringing up the rpms. I did replace the cam synchro, and it appears the cam gear...

yes, they clear the springs and show no signs of hitting anything

so, i replaced the problem synchronizer, the problem lifter, rocker, and reset all the rockers to 1/4 turn for preload. the engine is a little quieter with all the changes made but that one sound still comes and goes.

there is some up and down play but not side to side Well I got my home made ghetto oil priming tool running and it's pumping out 30psi and I'm getting oil to all rockers again. my tool didnt last very long so i had to do it by hand which worked a little better pressure wise, by hand i was...

i wonder what the fix is for it, assuming i can get one that wont continue wearing into the block do you think its okay to run with the groove? i cant believe the gear on the synchro is tougher than the actual block.

i thought about it but knowing my luck i would lose that socket. i just got back in from looking at it, and the camshaft synchronizer gear is definitely eating in the block in that little area by the cam gear. its machined a groove into the actual block. anyone see that before, or know why...

i was using the starter at the first attempt to get oil up to the rockers, it has worked the past few times i adjusted the rockers. I would use the starter to prime em before actually starting the vehicle. Now i have nothing to the top end. I just started making a new priming tool so i could...

seems to be the case, i used the dorman speed bleeders recently and they worked fine for me.

well things took a turn to the worse. I pulled all the lifters, pushrods, rockers to inspect everything, replaced things that were questionable adjusted two rocker studs for better alignment, set the rocker preloads again and used the starter to turn it over to make sure all rockers were...

I just took a peek, they all seem to be in the same spot, i guess my eyes were playing tricks on me yesterday