loud rockers

[nvrstuk]

Yup, that's all I've ever used for sbf's.

 

[tripog]

A 1/4 drive deep socket with a long extension is as easy as it gets. Electrical tape the socket to the extension for insurance.

i thought about it but knowing my luck i would lose that socket.

i just got back in from looking at it, and the camshaft synchronizer gear is definitely eating in the block in that little area by the cam gear. its machined a groove into the actual block.

anyone see that before, or know why that would happen?

 

[Seventee]

i thought about it but knowing my luck i would lose that socket.

i just got back in from looking at it, and the camshaft synchronizer gear is definitely eating in the block in that little area by the cam gear. its machined a groove into the actual block.

anyone see that before, or know why that would happen?

I saw it on a 400. I chalked it up to a worn distributer allowing the shaft to be pulled down too far. Don't really know for sure though.

 

[tripog]

I saw it on a 400. I chalked it up to a worn distributer allowing the shaft to be pulled down too far. Don't really know for sure though.

i wonder what the fix is for it, assuming i can get one that wont continue wearing into the block do you think its okay to run with the groove? i cant believe the gear on the synchro is tougher than the actual block.

 

[Seventee]

i wonder what the fix is for it, assuming i can get one that wont continue wearing into the block do you think its okay to run with the groove? i cant believe the gear on the synchro is tougher than the actual block.

Does the synchronizer shaft have a lot of end play?

As far as the block goes, I wouldn't be too concerned.

 

[tripog]

Does the synchronizer shaft have a lot of end play?

As far as the block goes, I wouldn't be too concerned.

there is some up and down play but not side to side


Well I got my home made ghetto oil priming tool running and it's pumping out 30psi and I'm getting oil to all rockers again.

my tool didnt last very long so i had to do it by hand which worked a little better pressure wise, by hand i was getting 50ishpsi but cylinder 1 intake and cylinder 5 exhaust rockers dont seem to be getting much oil.

Update: oil is getting to all rockers pretty evenly, 5 exhaust is still a little slow and gets a little less than the others on that bank but still gets enough to fill up the rocker and cover the roller

 

[tripog]

so, i replaced the problem synchronizer, the problem lifter, rocker, and reset all the rockers to 1/4 turn for preload. the engine is a little quieter with all the changes made but that one sound still comes and goes.

 

[Madgyver]

A 1/4 drive deep socket with a long extension is as easy as it gets. Electrical tape the socket to the extension for insurance.

FYI, Distributor body channels oil to the cam bearings.

 

[Madgyver]

Have you checked if the bottom of your rocker arms clears the top of the valve spring retainers during its cycles?

 

[Seventee]

FYI, Distributor body channels oil to the cam bearings.

No it doesn't.

 

[Madgyver]

No it doesn't.

my bad, i stand corrected.

 

[tripog]

Have you checked if the bottom of your rocker arms clears the top of the valve spring retainers during its cycles?

yes, they clear the springs and show no signs of hitting anything

 

[Rustytruck]

If you get pressure turning the pump manually then the only thing left is the gear on the distributor is sheared from the shaft or the hex drive in the bottom of the distributor shaft is stripped. or the pump shaft is too short. what else is there?

 

[tripog]

If you get pressure turning the pump manually then the only thing left is the gear on the distributor is sheared from the shaft or the hex drive in the bottom of the distributor shaft is stripped. or the pump shaft is too short. what else is there?

I thought I updated it, I have oil pressure again. I guess maybe I didn't give it enough time when I was priming it before. still at around 50ishpsi cold idle and 20ish hot idle all the way up to around 50ish hot bringing up the rpms. I did replace the cam synchro, and it appears the cam gear was a little bit lower than the new one. I'm guessing that is one of the reasons the synchro was wearing into the block.

Right now, I'm still dumbfounded on this sound. Next I'm going to check the flex plate and torque converter nuts for signs of damage, and go back over the exhaust for leaks but I don't think either of those are it.

I changed the oil again a few days ago, the oil I drained looked good, no signs of fod or anything.

with my stethoscope I can hear the sound the best in the exhaust collectors, and in the fuel rail. I can't really hear it from the engine oil pan, the intake manifold, the valve covers, the timing cover, or bellhousing.

I have adjusted the valves a few times now, and fixed a few things I noticed that was bad with those, that helped quiet the engine down quite a bit but it's still loud. I have pulled plug wires one at a time seeing if the sound changed at all, and it didn't. I tried a little bit of a thicker oil which made no difference in sound or oil pressure.
I pulled the spark plugs out and they all seem fine; I went over the wires and don't see them shorting out anywhere.
The engine runs strong, doesn't misfire or anything but the sound is getting worse.
i ran it without the belt for a few and the sound is still there, doesn't change when the engine is hot or cold but i swear sometimes the sound just stops before starting back up a few seconds later.

 

[Madgyver]

I chased a sound once that lead me to loose torque converter bolts..

 

[tripog]

I chased a sound once that lead me to loose torque converter bolts..

I haven't had loose ones but the ones that came with my tci torque converter when matched up with a tci flexplate caused them to hit the block on my ls1.

I don't think it's the case with this sound but I'm going to look anyway, if I can't find an exhaust leak or loose torque converter nut idk what else to look at besides pulling the oil pan and inspecting the bottom end.

 

[tripog]

I was able to pull the transmission inspection plate and see the flexplate, all the torque converter nuts were pretty dang tight but i was able to tighten one up a little bit, that made no difference in sound.
is there any way to tell if the flexplate is cracked without pulling the transmission?

also what does leaking thermactor plugs sound like?

 

[tripog]

uploaded a video of the sound to youtube

 

[nvrstuk]

Converters usually crack at the bolt attachment points. Whether its where it attaches to the crank or the TC.

Grab a small 90 deg pick and you will feel if there are any cracks close to the bolt heads.

Mirror works with light but not as well.

 

[tripog]

Converters usually crack at the bolt attachment points. Whether its where it attaches to the crank or the TC.

Grab a small 90 deg pick and you will feel if there are any cracks close to the bolt heads.

Mirror works with light but not as well.

yeah, that's what i assumed but it doesn't look like I would actually be able to see to where its attaching to the crank without pulling the transmission.
the mirror and light reminds me, i was using an led flash light to inspect, were not allowed to use led flash lights with inspection at work because they can hide defects. maybe i missed something, I still dont think the flexplate is the sound but im running out of stuff to look at