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Daniel's 1972 build

Dans72

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Aug 13, 2021
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I guess since I'm going to have a ton of work to do over the coming years and a lot of questions to ask, the smart thing to do is start a build thread. So I've made some plans, and already changed some plans but for right now, here's what I've got ahead of me:

'96 Explorer 5.0 (maybe aluminum heads and a mild cam with Holley Sniper EFI)
6R80. I want really good drivability and decent mileage.
Keep the Dana 20
Keep the factory small bearing 9" with the 4.57 gear
2.5" suspension lift and 1" body? Not 100% on that
Planning on a whole new body from Dennis Carpenter
Add disc brakes from a late 70s Bronco or F-150 4x4
Rear disc brakes from Explorer?
Hydroboost from GMC 2500 van.
4x4x2 Steering gear

It's going to be a long road to get there but I plan on enjoying it and learning a lot. I've always had Mustangs, now's I'm finally going to do something a little different.
 
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Dans72

Dans72

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Here's what I'm working with
 

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Dans72

Dans72

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Can somebody confirm that these aren't the original style motor mounts? The engine is several inches farther to the rear than I think it should be. To the point that at some point, someone cut the center of the firewall out and.....patched it..ish.

It was originally a 170 6-cylinder and now has a 289 or 302. It has an oil filter relocation kit because the filter would hit the crossmember.
 

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DirtDonk

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I guess since I'm going to have a ton of work to do over the coming years and a lot of questions to ask, the smart thing to do is start a build thread.

Hey Dan. Yep, looks like you're right about a lot of work! But lots of help here, and yours is certainly not the roughest that's crossed these pages.

'96 Explorer 5.0 (maybe aluminum heads and a mild cam with Holley Sniper EFI)

Not interested in running the Explorer stuff instead?

6R80. I want really good drivability and decent mileage.
Keep the Dana 20

Are there adapters now for the newer transmissions to the older engines?
Good mileage is achievable, but it ain't easy!

Keep the factory small bearing 9" with the 4.57 gear

But you will restore and update it, correct? The wheel bearings need to be replaced no matter what else you do. BEFORE you drive it much!
Sounds like that won't be a problem, as you're going through this head to toe. But I had to mention it since it's a weak link (so to speak). Not that it was a bad, or weak design. Just that they're potentially 50+ years old!

2.5" suspension lift and 1" body? Not 100% on that
4x4x2 Steering gear

But it's a good combo, if you decide to go that route. Don't ignore steering linkage mods though, just because you have a shorter lift. Between the lift and the new steering box with a different location you'll be needing to tweak your steering. So mocking things up while building is a good idea.

The 4x4x2 is hell for stout, but is it the best choice? What size tires are you planning? What kind of use are you going to put the rig to? There are newer swaps that can be "better" in some ways. Up to you though, and any of them can be made to work with what you've got.

Planning on a whole new body from Dennis Carpenter

A few other companies out there making them too nowadays. Make sure to read the different discussion threads about new bodies in general.

Add disc brakes from a late 70s Bronco or F-150 4x4

That's my preferred brake too. The GM conversions are nice, but the Ford stuff is cool and it's still Ford. Not a purist by any means, but it's nice to keep it all the same brand when you can I feel.
It's another area that requires you to modify the steering linkage slightly, but the parts are there and easy to work with.

Rear disc brakes from Explorer?

Maybe. Not sure how easy it is to convert on a '72 9", and the '74/'75 small bearings are the more desired ones I think. But others will know more of what it takes. Hopefully it's an easy swap.

I've always had Mustangs, now's I'm finally going to do something a little different.

One thing you'll likely note early on is the inconsistency of Broncos compared to your other vehicles, including your Mustangs. Broncos were orphans inside the Ford stable and didn't get the love that other vehicles did. On the one hand they're very simple, but on the other hand that does not mean that adding, swapping, fixing, replacing or patching is going to be any easier. At least not in ever case.

Best of luck!

paul
 

DirtDonk

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Can somebody confirm that these aren't the original style motor mounts?

Odd choice of swap methods!
The actual "motor mounts" that are bolted to the engine are in fact original V8 style. But those adapter plates welded to the towers and offsetting the engine are total backyard mechanic stuff.

Here's our page with at least some of the usual "6-to-8" conversion stuff: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/Bronco_V8_Conversion
You can check out the instructions for the #9833 V8 engine towers that weld to the frame in place of the Inline-6 towers and see if the measurements in them agree with what you have in your engine compartment now. Might be a good starting point to see what's been done, and what has not.

Paul
 
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Dans72

Dans72

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Hey Dan. Yep, looks like you're right about a lot of work! But lots of help here, and yours is certainly not the roughest that's crossed these pages.



Not interested in running the Explorer stuff instead?

Not that there's anything wrong with the Explorer stuff, but I've wanted to build an engine with aluminum heads for a while. I figure the 50lbs or so of weight savings and a little better resistance to detonation justify it. At least it will to my wife anyhow.


Are there adapters now for the newer transmissions to the older engines?
Good mileage is achievable, but it ain't easy!

Yes, I've found a couple of adapter plates for bolting up a 302/351 to a 6R80.



But you will restore and update it, correct? The wheel bearings need to be replaced no matter what else you do. BEFORE you drive it much!
Sounds like that won't be a problem, as you're going through this head to toe. But I had to mention it since it's a weak link (so to speak). Not that it was a bad, or weak design. Just that they're potentially 50+ years old!

Yes! I plan on rebuilding the rear end and the Dana 20. I can't stand the thought of not going through everything. I'd hate to work on this thing for a few years and then the time comes to finally start driving it and immediately have to park it to fix it.


2.5" suspension lift and 1" body? Not 100% on that


But it's a good combo, if you decide to go that route. Don't ignore steering linkage mods though, just because you have a shorter lift. Between the lift and the new steering box with a different location you'll be needing to tweak your steering. So mocking things up while building is a good idea.

I like that combo for looks. I'll probably go that route and run 33s.


The 4x4x2 is hell for stout, but is it the best choice? What size tires are you planning? What kind of use are you going to put the rig to? There are newer swaps that can be "better" in some ways. Up to you though, and any of them can be made to work with what you've got.

It probably isn't the best choice for me in all honesty. I don't plan on doing any rock crawling and the closest it'll ever come to doing anything off-roading will likely be some forestry service roads. I do like the 4x4x2 for two reasons though...I've already bought the required steering gears, and it uses Ford parts.


Planning on a whole new body from Dennis Carpenter

A few other companies out there making them too nowadays. Make sure to read the different discussion threads about new bodies in general.

I've read through some of the posts on here about other builders. I was leaning toward one (which I won't name) until I read some reviews. Apparently they talk a good game. Plus, Concord, NC is close enough to drive to and pick it up without having to worry about shipping.


Add disc brakes from a late 70s Bronco or F-150 4x4

That's my preferred brake too. The GM conversions are nice, but the Ford stuff is cool and it's still Ford. Not a purist by any means, but it's nice to keep it all the same brand when you can I feel.
It's another area that requires you to modify the steering linkage slightly, but the parts are there and easy to work with.

Rear disc brakes from Explorer?

Maybe. Not sure how easy it is to convert on a '72 9", and the '74/'75 small bearings are the more desired ones I think. But others will know more of what it takes. Hopefully it's an easy swap.

I'm not well read enough to know how to go about making it happen. I may use another setup or even buy a kit for the rear brakes. Or I may just make a junkyard trip, come back with something and figure out how to make it work.



One thing you'll likely note early on is the inconsistency of Broncos compared to your other vehicles, including your Mustangs. Broncos were orphans inside the Ford stable and didn't get the love that other vehicles did. On the one hand they're very simple, but on the other hand that does not mean that adding, swapping, fixing, replacing or patching is going to be any easier. At least not in ever case.

Best of luck!

paul
 
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Dans72

Dans72

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I guess the reason they did that with the motor mounts was to give them room to fit a fan in there. Whatever was done was long ago. This thing hadn't been on the road since '91. Still, somebody wasn't very imaginative in how they shoehorned it in there.
 

Rustytruck

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Feb 24, 2002
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10,875
if I had one with the motor mounts and firewall set back I would be looking at a 300 six.
 
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Dans72

Dans72

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if I had one with the motor mounts and firewall set back I would be looking at a 300 six.

This one the firewall isn't exactly set back. The middle section has just been cut out and some very flimsy metal put in its place with screws. I need a new body anyhow and I've already spoken for a 5.0 out of an Explorer. But a 300 is a tough old bird, and one that's hard to beat for longevity.
 

sprdv1

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I guess the reason they did that with the motor mounts was to give them room to fit a fan in there. Whatever was done was long ago. This thing hadn't been on the road since '91. Still, somebody wasn't very imaginative in how they shoehorned it in there.

always something to be looked at with previous owner mods lol
 
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Dans72

Dans72

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Got the 5.0L Explorer engine in the garage and have started tearing it down. I've torn down a few engines before and never quite had one like this. On some cylinders, you can still see the cross-hatch in the bores. But a couple cylinders are just awful shape. I knew the engine had been outside, uncovered when I bought it. But the exhaust manifolds had been cut off, one spark plug was out, and it was tipped over on its side. When I took the drain plug out of the oil pan, it ran a quart of water out before I ever saw any oil. Hopefully it isn't anything the machine shop can't fix.
 

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Dans72

Dans72

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I also found a really nice adapter kit to go from a small block Ford to 6R80 so I'm decided on going in that direction. The kit that I had stumbled across earlier required cutting the bell housing and I didn't like the idea of doing that. With this kit, there's no cutting required, and it includes a factory small block starter, which bolts right up.

https://transmissionadapters.com/co...small-block-ford-to-6r80-modular-transmission
 
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Dans72

Dans72

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I will but I haven't yet. This is looking like it's going to be a very slow build. I've got to build a house before I can get too carried away with the Bronco.
 

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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Dans72- do some checking on that starter because I think its proprietary, not a SBF starter. Not insinuating anything other than if it goes out you won't find a local one unless you cross reference or carry a spare or ?

Just mentioning it for you. The Speed Gem adapter looks good if length isn't an issue for your build.


I also found a really nice adapter kit to go from a small block Ford to 6R80 so I'm decided on going in that direction. The kit that I had stumbled across earlier required cutting the bell housing and I didn't like the idea of doing that. With this kit, there's no cutting required, and it includes a factory small block starter, which bolts right up.

https://transmissionadapters.com/co...small-block-ford-to-6r80-modular-transmission
 

BruiserOutdoors

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Aug 22, 2013
Messages
741
I also found a really nice adapter kit to go from a small block Ford to 6R80 so I'm decided on going in that direction. The kit that I had stumbled across earlier required cutting the bell housing and I didn't like the idea of doing that. With this kit, there's no cutting required, and it includes a factory small block starter, which bolts right up.

https://transmissionadapters.com/co...small-block-ford-to-6r80-modular-transmission

Dan, have you ordered the adapter and done any mock-up? There are a few of us that would love to know how it fits against the firewall!

keep us posted. thanks.
 

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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SpeedGems does not use a Ford starter.


I spent several days writing up a Tech Article for the CB site on installing the 6r benind a sbf. Hope it helps a few.

Pros & Cons of adapters, etc, etc. About 35 pics to go with it. Jon has it and I hope he gets a chance to link it up to the site soon.



QUOTE=Dans72;3396632]I also found a really nice adapter kit to go from a small block Ford to 6R80 so I'm decided on going in that direction. The kit that I had stumbled across earlier required cutting the bell housing and I didn't like the idea of doing that. With this kit, there's no cutting required, and it includes a factory small block starter, which bolts right up.

https://transmissionadapters.com/co...small-block-ford-to-6r80-modular-transmission[/QUOTE]
 

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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Messages
8,697
Bruiser- there is room for the SpeedGems adapter. The bellhousing bolts are going to be a close fit because of the 2" thick adapter but all you have to do is lower the rear end of the t-case a little and they will go in fine.
 

BruiserOutdoors

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Aug 22, 2013
Messages
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Bruiser- there is room for the SpeedGems adapter. The bellhousing bolts are going to be a close fit because of the 2" thick adapter but all you have to do is lower the rear end of the t-case a little and they will go in fine.

Thanks for that input, puts me more at ease. Hadn't considered that.

They are running a sale right now that I'd like to take advantage of. Can't mock it up yet, bronco is in the shop currently.
 
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