Daniel's 1972 build

[nvrstuk]

It will be close. I checked to see if it would fit in mine by using a pc of alum that would have extended my Perf Auto adapter the equiv amt.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

It will be close. I checked to see if it would fit in mine by using a pc of alum that would have extended my Perf Auto adapter the equiv amt.

Won't the amount of body lift change the results? How much body lift do you have?



The bolt bosses are large on the 6r, which increases my concern.

 

[nvrstuk]

Yes, thanks for that question! A body lift will make a big difference. I have 2 1/2".

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

Yes, thanks for that question! A body lift will make a big difference. I have 2 1/2".

Ok. My plan has been 2" BL.

 

[nvrstuk]

I used about 28" of 1/2" drive extensions with a socket to remove the top two bellhousing bolts which should pretty much prove you would be ok for clearance.

The 6r is taller but will clear your tunnel. In my tech article I addressed the twin stick clearance when bolted to the typical location on the flat part of the tunnel. The 6r is tall enough towards the back that things get tight.

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

I used about 28" of 1/2" drive extensions with a socket to remove the top two bellhousing bolts which should pretty much prove you would be ok for clearance.

The 6r is taller but will clear your tunnel. In my tech article I addressed the twin stick clearance when bolted to the typical location on the flat part of the tunnel. The 6r is tall enough towards the back that things get tight.

I am not so much worried about the tunnel as I am the installation and removal of the 6r against the firewall, Speed Gems bolt is 5" long for the top bolts if I'm not mistaken.

 

[Dans72]

It's been a while since I updated my progress on the Bronco, that's because there hasn't been much progress. I have decided to go with a 4R70W instead of the 6R80. I liked the idea of the 6R but I've decided that a 4R70W will do everything I need it to do and cost a lot less. I've bought junkyard parts from a 1979 Bronco to do the front disc brake swap. I've also sent my engine to the machine shop for some work. I also built my 4x4x2 steering gear. Next up for me is to figure out how to get the tub off of the frame and figure out where to put the tub in the meantime while I begin work on the frame, front and rear differentials, brakes, etc.

On an interesting side note, I got around to pulling the old motor that was in the Bronco last night. I had wondered ever since buying it what the motor was. I had assumed it to be a 289 or 302. My guess was 289 based on the gold paint. So when pulling the engine I found out that it was a 5 bolt bellhousing pattern. So it's not a 302 for sure. Could still be an early 289, right? Maybe a 260. I was stunned when I pulled the head off of the engine and saw tiny 3.5" pistons. Turns out, it's a 221. To my knowledge, it's the only one I've ever seen. I thought that was kinda cool. What wasn't cool was having to cut the floor/trans tunnel just to get out a bellhousing bolt.

 

[nvrstuk]

What an interesting find!! First 221 I've heard of ever being "found" in a Bronco! Comes with the "oh so popular 5 bolt bellhousing" to boot! lol

Just a thought, couldn't you have removed the motor mounts to drop the engine/trans combo enough to get to the funky bolt?? Just wondering.

Glad you are back on the project!! Are you going to reuse the 221?

 

[Dans72]

I have no idea what to do with the 221. Part of me wants to put it back and someday see how much power I can get out of it without any power adders. Maybe I'll find a '62 Fairlane to put it in.

Back to the Bronco, I can't believe the way that someone went about this engine swap. As I told my wife, you can tell they did this before the internet really caught on. I don't think they ever really finished the swap and I seriously doubt that little 221 ever ran beneath the hood of my Bronco. If it did run, it was only in the woods.

They "fabricated" motor mounts by using flat plate and bolted the plate to the original I6 mounts. They just cut the center of the firewall out as well as sections of the floor. In its place they had some thin flashing held in place with sheet metal screws. I haven't dug in enough to figure out what transmission and bellhousing have been used.





Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[Yeller]

those little bores are cute LOL

 

[nvrstuk]

What you bought was kinda like a winning the bid on a storage shed!! Don't have a clue what ya got till ya open it up and look close!!

Have fun!

 

[Bajabrewer]

Just caught this thread & yeah you got a project going on here! Not sure what transfer case you're going with but I'm guessing you have the 6 cylinder(shorter) trans to transfer case adapter - that's one reason the engine would be pushed back into the firewall some? Then again who knows what they did to make things work. Just thought you might want to double check that trans to T-case situation.

 

[Dans72]

Just caught this thread & yeah you got a project going on here! Not sure what transfer case you're going with but I'm guessing you have the 6 cylinder(shorter) trans to transfer case adapter - that's one reason the engine would be pushed back into the firewall some? Then again who knows what they did to make things work. Just thought you might want to double check that trans to T-case situation.

It looks like that's what has went on here. I'm 99% sure the transfer case is the Dana 20 and I'd be willing to bet it's the original 3 speed too. No idea what the bellhousing came from. I'm guessing the original 170 didn't use the same bellhousing as a 5 bolt early Windsor, but I've never messed around with a 170 or 200. The plan is to pull the transmission and transfer case next.

 

[Dans72]

Looks like I've got the original Dana 20 which is great since I was planning on using it. I'm still planning on rebuilding the transfer case but I was really surprised at how smooth the input and output shafts feel when turned.

Now for a question for any brake gurus. I'm going to run a hydroboost brake booster and I'm working on acquiring parts. I've already got front disc parts from a 78-79 Bronco and I'll make the switch to discs on the rear, probably with a kit. My question is what size master cylinder bore do I need? I've read through some threads on here and the best that I can figure is maybe to go with a 1-1/16" or 1-1/8."

Also, will I need to do anything to change the brake pedal ratio to something closer to 4:1? I've never built a brake system from the ground up, so this is all pretty new to me. And if it makes any difference, I'll be going from 3 pedals down to only 2.

 

[DirtDonk]

You'll like the disc brake upgrade. Try not to go too big on the rear brakes so you don't have balance issues to take care of in addition to all the other things you'll be doing.
With the smaller Ford calipers you can get away even with a 1" bore master. But since going hydroboost with all of it's additional assist, there's no real reason to go smaller than 1 1/8" on the master I don't think. A larger master bore will give you a firmer pedal further up, but you won't have any difficulty pushing it because of the hydroboost's large assist.
Not sure about changing pedal ratios at this point. Don't remember hearing about anyone needing to do that as long as the master is sized properly for the four corners.
Factory master size was 1" for the disc brakes even on the larger trucks. The 4-wheel discs might take a little more fluid to make work, but not that much.
Only reason i can think of to go all the way to 1 1/4" master would be if you plan to use larger piston calipers at both ends.

Paul

 

[sprdv1]

What he said... ^^

 

[Dans72]

Maybe I was overthinking things on the pedal ratio. Sounds like I'm good to go ahead and find a master cylinder then. The only drawback is now that I'm using a GM booster, I guess I'm committed to a GM spec master cylinder due to the difference in bolt spacing. I guess it's because I've always been into Fords and I've predominantly looked under the hoods of Fords, but man are GM master cylinders eyesores. I might have to pony the money up for a Wilwood.

 

[DirtDonk]

Might be easier than you think unless you really just want to get rid of the existing master.
Unless there’s some other variation I’m not aware of you could probably just widen the whole spacing by drilling or filing out the existing mounting holes in the flange.

 

[sprdv1]

Maybe I was overthinking things on the pedal ratio. Sounds like I'm good to go ahead and find a master cylinder then. The only drawback is now that I'm using a GM booster, I guess I'm committed to a GM spec master cylinder due to the difference in bolt spacing. I guess it's because I've always been into Fords and I've predominantly looked under the hoods of Fords, but man are GM master cylinders eyesores. I might have to pony the money up for a Wilwood.

Easy to do bud... You won't go wrong w/it

 

[gnsteam]

Looks like I've got the original Dana 20 which is great since I was planning on using it. I'm still planning on rebuilding the transfer case but I was really surprised at how smooth the input and output shafts feel when turned.

Now for a question for any brake gurus. I'm going to run a hydroboost brake booster and I'm working on acquiring parts. I've already got front disc parts from a 78-79 Bronco and I'll make the switch to discs on the rear, probably with a kit. My question is what size master cylinder bore do I need? I've read through some threads on here and the best that I can figure is maybe to go with a 1-1/16" or 1-1/8."

Also, will I need to do anything to change the brake pedal ratio to something closer to 4:1? I've never built a brake system from the ground up, so this is all pretty new to me. And if it makes any difference, I'll be going from 3 pedals down to only 2.

I’m no brake guru, But I am currently working on a hydro boost conversion. Check out the last page of my build thread. Which is listed at the bottom of this post. The booster is Ford super duty, with Dodge diplomat master, at 1 1/8” bore. I’m running stock 76 Bronco front disc and rear drums. Will upgrade to rear discs later if I feel it needed.