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04 Dana 60 "248" or (92 Dana60/Sterling)

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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To keep the steering wheel from turning when cycling the suspension, isn't it best to keep the strg box as rearward and as close as possible to the track bar?

Example: when the front suspension drops to full droop and you are holding the strg wheel the PS of the vehicle wants to droop and if the strg box is lets say 8" in front of the track bar then the pivot of the frt axle with the track bar is not in the same plane or pivot arc as the track bar and since the strg box was/is moved let's say 8" forward then the drag link would try to rotate the strg wheel in the drivers hands to allow the suspension to droop all the way- correct?

Help me out if I'm wrong... the arcs aren't the same and since the end of the pitman arm is now farther away because it's farther forward it can't allow the front to droop without "making up" for the different "arc" distance by drawing the pitman arm towards the PS... hence rotating the strg wheel. A bump steer motion.
 

Boss Hugg

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Help me out if I'm wrong... the arcs aren't the same and since the end of the pitman arm is now farther away because it's farther forward it can't allow the front to droop without "making up" for the different "arc" distance by drawing the pitman arm towards the PS... hence rotating the strg wheel. A bump steer motion.

What Yeller is implying is that you move the axle as far forward as the box will go so that it all stays in alignment. But you also have to consider the headlights and things in the grill that a tire can rub. Just because the box will go that far doesn't mean you WANT to go that far. Unless you can change other things. For instance, lengthen the front fenders to get that stuff out in front of the tire. Lots of work. How far does a person want to stretch their wheelbase?
 

nvrstuk

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Exactly Boss Hugg. That's what I did. I could only get the front axle a little over an inch forward without my 40"s touching my headlight wires. Steve is all over this stuff, I'm a total rookie but tossed that out there to ask knowing there is a limit and I wasn't implying that just moving the box as far forward as possible was a good thing.

I was torn between moving the box way forward and having tire interference (again-but worse) or leaving it where it is and not being able to lengthen my track bar for equal length (or having it mounted in line with my pitman arm)... this is part of the reason for my question... Steve's rig is well thought out and built extremely well... :)
 

Yeller

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I like answering questions that work themselves out without my input:p

Yes you both are correct, just saying it different :)

Thanks for the props! I’m just a knuckle dragging fabricator that tries lots of stuff and tries really hard to remember the failures :p
 

Boss Hugg

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I’m just a knuckle dragging fabricator that tries lots of stuff and tries really hard to remember the failures :p

In other words, "I try to learn from my mistakes, but I really can't remember any..." HA!!! ;)

Everything I know I learned from Yeller. Well, a lot of stuff anyway.
 
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Madgyver

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With the 92 D60 knuckles, Will I have clearance issues with steering linkages and the diff cover if I do a tie-rod over conversion? Are the hi steer arms needed?
 

Yeller

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High steer shouldn’t be needed with your lift goals and may actually not clear the frame The arms are higher than the kingpin arms. I find most of my builds high steer is a no go due to other packaging issues. It’s really not a huge deal you just need a nice beefy tie rod and it will be fine. I’ve been running the same unit that I built in 2005, I’ve reindexed it twice for rubbing on the cover at full lock and it has been used for a skid plate and curb feeler more times than we could all count on our fingers and toes.
 
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Madgyver

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High steer shouldn’t be needed with your lift goals and may actually not clear the frame The arms are higher than the kingpin arms. I find most of my builds high steer is a no go due to other packaging issues. It’s really not a huge deal you just need a nice beefy tie rod and it will be fine. I’ve been running the same unit that I built in 2005, I’ve reindexed it twice for rubbing on the cover at full lock and it has been used for a skid plate and curb feeler more times than we could all count on our fingers and toes.
How about a simple tie-rod over on the stock 92 knuckles? i noticed that the 04 d60 is stock tie-rod over.
 
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Madgyver

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So distracted with these big axles... I wanna build them soon but gotto finish wife's rig first...
 

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Madgyver

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Haha that will help keep the flow of life happy ;D

Sure will as she's bugging Taz "Why am I working on his bronco?"

Well It's annual vehicle registration expired today, And we did it! Got it road legal before it expired.

Steve,
I'm about to put an order in for DOM tube for the rear 4-link. 3' lengths of 2" .250 should be enough, right? should I go 1.5" uppers?
This will be for the Sterling.
 

Yeller

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Steve,
I'm about to put an order in for DOM tube for the rear 4-link. 3' lengths of 2" .250 should be enough, right? should I go 1.5" uppers?
This will be for the Sterling.
Yes it is sufficient I usually use 1-3/4 .120 for the uppers, they fit the weld in inserts for 1-1/4 joints, either hiems or Johnny Joints (or equal). If using hiems a 3/4x5/8 high strength joint is enough and you can step down to 1-1/4 tube if you’d like. Do your best to keep total link length down to the 36” mark. It keeps CG ahead if the link ends promoting better climbing ability.
 
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Madgyver

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Did some mock-up today with the 92 D60/Sterling axles.
100"-102" wheelbase
 

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nvrstuk

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Looking good.

What are your gas tank plans and what is your axle split? Frt foward? & rear ?
 
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Madgyver

Madgyver

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Does anyone know what this electrical part is and what it controls on a 92 10.25 Sterling rear axle?
 

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Madgyver

Madgyver

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Sometimes I find some deals.. Never installed. D60 Detroit Locker.
Almost half the retail price..
And I didn't have to deal with any shipping. I just drove over and picked it up.
 

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