Lots of aftermarket suport for that axle. If doing a lot of miles or really hard use spidertrax or Currie ultimate unit bearings are worth the asking price. For axles unless your really hard on equipment and/or running 40” or larger tires normal chromo shafts and forged spicer joints are more than sufficient (for reference that’s what I run, zero failures). If not ponying up for ultimate unit bearings get 3, a failure will happen, it’s just a matter of time, all of the less expensive bearings that will accept a 35 spline axle the spindle area is too thin and with a lot of side loading they stretch allowing the bearings to become loose and fail. Keep in mind that upgrading later to the ultimate style later is not just a matter of changing the bearongs, the outer axle shafts are different as well, so make that plan before ordering any shafts. The factory brakes are fantastic but you can get or adapt anything you want, this axle has so much support that literally anything you want is out there and much of it can be easily and cleanly put together from off the shelf parts. If interested in some of those options let me know and I can point you to some easy brake options.
FYI use premium ball joints you’ll be fine. The c’s and knuckles are very robust and the steering arms are high enough that unless your rig is quite tall high steer is not needed. The Knuckles are a cast steel and very weld able, I can point you to a good simple process that is proven to work, same with the center section. Everyone wants kingpins bit these ball joint axles are more than adequate for most trail machines and can be put together for reasonable dollars