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04 Dana 60 "248" or (92 Dana60/Sterling)

Madgyver

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Jul 30, 2001
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14,737
I finally found a HP D60 locally that was affordable, I couldn't pass it up. I know its a unit bearing with lots of aftermarket following. What's the direction to take take this? It's going under my bronco, which one? IDK yet.
Got a redrill kit for 8x6.5 but also considering a 5x5.5 unit bearing to run wheels that I have..
Need suggestions...
 

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maverickconner

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I ran the whole superduty setup on my 66, D60 front and 10.5 rear. Only issue i have is that I had to spend $$$ on the front drive shaft bc of the offset from the D20 yoke- 6 inches. High angle driveline can build you a 42 degree driveshaft but its expensive $1200. if your running the atlas or a np205 then you gain another 2" so not so bad. Also look at Barnes offroad cross over steering, cool weld on brackets for the superduty.
 

Yeller

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Lots of aftermarket suport for that axle. If doing a lot of miles or really hard use spidertrax or Currie ultimate unit bearings are worth the asking price. For axles unless your really hard on equipment and/or running 40” or larger tires normal chromo shafts and forged spicer joints are more than sufficient (for reference that’s what I run, zero failures). If not ponying up for ultimate unit bearings get 3, a failure will happen, it’s just a matter of time, all of the less expensive bearings that will accept a 35 spline axle the spindle area is too thin and with a lot of side loading they stretch allowing the bearings to become loose and fail. Keep in mind that upgrading later to the ultimate style later is not just a matter of changing the bearongs, the outer axle shafts are different as well, so make that plan before ordering any shafts. The factory brakes are fantastic but you can get or adapt anything you want, this axle has so much support that literally anything you want is out there and much of it can be easily and cleanly put together from off the shelf parts. If interested in some of those options let me know and I can point you to some easy brake options.

FYI use premium ball joints you’ll be fine. The c’s and knuckles are very robust and the steering arms are high enough that unless your rig is quite tall high steer is not needed. The Knuckles are a cast steel and very weld able, I can point you to a good simple process that is proven to work, same with the center section. Everyone wants kingpins bit these ball joint axles are more than adequate for most trail machines and can be put together for reasonable dollars
 
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Madgyver

Madgyver

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Thanks Steve! I'll be needed some direction with this, me not knowing what's interchangeable. I'm thinking 3 link. I have a doubler set that's 36" long, move front forward 6"..... thinking out loud..
What are your thoughts on the unit bearings that are drilled for 5x5.5? What about brake rotors?
I am interested in the brake options...
 
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LSharpNM

Full Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2020
Messages
164
Just run the Sterling rear to get a matching bolt pattern. They are stout axles and are a dime a dozen. You will almost certainly spend more money trying to convert the bolt pattern on the front axle than what a Sterling will cost you.
 
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Madgyver

Madgyver

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Just run the Sterling rear to get a matching bolt pattern. They are stout axles and are a dime a dozen. You will almost certainly spend more money trying to convert the bolt pattern on the front axle than what a Sterling will cost you.

I only got the front D60. Seller said tow guy needed rear to haul it away.
I have a rear axle project that's 8x6.5 bolt pattern so its an option.
 

Yeller

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Thanks Steve! I'll be needed some direction with this, me not knowing what's interchangeable. I'm thinking 3 link. I have a doubler set that's 36" long, move front forward 6"..... thinking out loud..
What are your thoughts on the unit bearings that are drilled for 5x5.5? What about brake rotors?
I am interested in the brake options...

I'll help anyway I can, don't hesitate to hit me up.

Nothing wrong with the 5x5.5 unit bearings, just get 3 of them unless doing the "ultimate" type, and install 9/16" wheel studs, 1/2" are not enough. As for brakes 2004 F150 rear rotors and Willwood 4 piston calipers, get 6 piston if you can swing it. Make a bracket that either is welded to the knuckle or bolts to the factory caliper flange, either works well. If you decide to go 8x6.5 a little work with a die grinder and a carbide burr the factory rotors and calipers work fine. Keep in mind that the stock outer axle is only 30 spline.
 
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Madgyver

Madgyver

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Okay, Now I have an option. a 1995 Ford F-350 front Dana60, Hub wheel pattern are 8x6.5.

Anyone know the measurements of the WMS to WMS of the 1995 D60? A friend is holding the axle for me but can't get me the measurement at the moment
Which front D60 do I use?
2004 SD front D60 or 1995 front Dana 60.
 

Yeller

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1995, you will spend less building it. Even if you decide to go 5x5.5 it’s still less. The original hubs can be machined and drilled. Just remember you will spend as much or more to run 5x5.5 than a new set of wheels costs so don’t let “I have them” be the only reason.

Simplifies the build. Recondition the brakes and bearings. The inner axles are usable, I ran them for 10 years before I changed them to chromoly, you could see light around the ujoint cups. Chang the outer shafts to 35 spline regear, add a locker and run it.

Only real word of advice, if you do nothing else change the outer axles. If used very hard they will break, and usually split lengthwise, swelling up the spindle destroying it, the bearings, lock nuts and occasionally the hub. Call it a cost saving preventative replacement.
 
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Madgyver

Madgyver

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Steve, Are the WMS measurement identical between the 04 SD D60 and the 95 D60?
5x5.5 idea is out, new 8x6.5 wheels it will be.
 

Yeller

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They both should be 69” if I’m remembering correctly. I know the earlier axle is 69”.

If you want it 67“ the long side tube can be shortened and a pre 91 Chevy or pre 93 dodge long side inner shaft used.
 
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Madgyver

Madgyver

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it's a 92 front D60 with 4.10 gears according to its tag.
bonus is that it came with the matching rear (sterling?) axle off a 92 Ford F350.
 

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Yeller

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That’s awesome! Not that it really matters is it king pin or ball joint? I can’t remember the year they made the change. If it is king pin the knuckles will need to be plated the tops crack and break pretty easy. I’m really surprised it wasn’t a notable issue on the stock trucks. I’ve never seen a drivers side one that did not have a crack in it.
 

LSharpNM

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Run the '92 Dana 60 and matching Sterling and sell the '99-'04 Superduty Dana 60.

The '92 axle and Superduty axle should be the same WMS width (~69" as Yeller said). The Superduty axle offers no real strength advantage over the '92 axle and and the unit bearings are relatively weak ('05+ are much stronger) and make running 35 spline outer much more complicated and expensive.

I believe '92 should be a first year ball joint axle which is a good thing since the factory Ford kingpin knuckles are really weak and break pretty commonly which will ruin your day. The only downside is that it takes a bit more work to run high steering on a ball joint axle.

The weak points are the hubs (not sure if the factory ones are decent but I have seen a lot of failures of aftermarket 30 spline hubs) and the 30 spline outer axle shafts. That said, I have seen the 30 spline outer hold up well for some people on 40" tires, and other people break them every time out with 38" tires. If you want to get serious, upgrading to 35 spline outers would be prudent.

The Sterling needs nothing other than gears and a locker, it is a tough SOB in stock form. A buddy of mine runs a 10.25 in his buggy with 40" stickies and hasn't had any issues, and I know of other people running them with 40"+ stickies without problems.


I am glad to see you have decided to bite the bullet and buy some 8 on 6.5" wheels. I have never understood why people spend so much time and money to retain a weaker bolt pattern.
 
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Madgyver

Madgyver

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What will I need to run the 35 spline outers?
I assume it is a stock 92 D60 with 30 spline outer shafts. It is balljoints
 

Yeller

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What will I need to run the 35 spline outers?
I assume it is a stock 92 D60 with 30 spline outer shafts. It is balljoints

Just depends on how hard you run it. its not something you have to do to get on the trail/road, its an easy up grade, no different that replacing an axle ujoint and installing a new set of hubs. if you push it very hard and are breaking 44 parts fairly often yes plan on it sooner than later but if 44 parts are staying together you probably will never have an issue. Ball joints are good, that means the knuckles are stronger, less work to have to do.
 
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Madgyver

Madgyver

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my only failure on a 44 was a u-joint that failed that happened to take out the ball joints too and that was on sand. So i guess i'm not too hard on it.
Probably not needing the upgrade but what am I to do?
I have the parts, I wanna build it. For now just get it under my rig on the cheap and save for a locker and chromo shafts later down the line I'm. going to need a set of wheels in 8x6.5 first.
3-link the front with a track bar?
Move 4x4x2 box forward 5"-6" along with axle, cut front crossmember and relocate... Keeping COG low.
 

LSharpNM

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my only failure on a 44 was a u-joint that failed that happened to take out the balljoints too and that was on sand. So i guess i'm not too hard on it.
Probably not needing the upgrade but what am I to do?
I have the parts, I wanna build it. For now just get it under my rig on the cheap and save for a locker and chromo shafts later down the line I'm. going to need a set of wheels in 8x6.5 first.

Unless you are a throttle jockey on the rocks with big tires, you will probably be fine with the 30 spline outers. It is just as easy to replace the stubs with 35 spline versions with the axle under the vehicle, so there is no problem doing it down the road. As Yeller said, with the '92 axle, it is as easy as installing a new outer and matching 35 spline hub/flange. No other changes are necessary.
 

Yeller

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Right on track. 3 link, track bar and push the steering box as far forward as you can within reason. For reference I’m at 4” and the headlight just clears at full stuff and turned with 37’s. With my height I’m maxed out on tire size without doing major modifications like cutting the fenders to the hood, going to flat LED headlights and majorly cutting the grill. If I’d put on a 3” lift I could probably squeeze in some 40’s without much effort, but that’s not my style lol.

Get it in there and upgrade when required or your ready. Having only broke a single ujoint I wouldn’t make axle upgrades a priority. Unlike my last 44, that I broke all 4 axles, ring & pinion and Detroit in one nice pop, was a brand new build with all if the high zoot parts of the day. lasted about 30 minutes, yeah a little over achievement lol built a 60 spent less money and am still running that axle over 20 years later
 
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