130A V-Belt Does it work?

[WheelHorse]

After reading countless threads, most users of an upgraded alternator are b*tching that a single v-belt set up squeals and serp is the only way to go.

So, I ask myself, either the vendors selling this are full of beans because there would be countless upset customers, or people have a heck of a draw on a v-belt system at start up.

I have a stock '77 with 79K miles that I ditched the close to 40 year old aftermarket AC unit, which means I have to buy an alt bracket and spacer. While I had the original alt off I gave her a spin and I could tell the bearings are a little noisy.

So, I took it apart and sure enough the 6203 front bearing is tired and she could use brushes and I'd probably install a new rear bearing. So I could invest 20 bucks into the orig alt and it may last well who knows how long.

I could buy a reman from napa for like 55 and that includes the 5 dollar core charge so I could hang onto my original for keepsake. Plus I installed a new SS regulator last year so I could still use that piece.

OR I could do an upgrade...

Everything I've read said serp is the way to go when having a higher output alt. I've read up on the main charge wire upgrade, losing the amp meter, bypassing the reg wiring, but my biggest concern is the belt squeal with an upgrade.

Truck is pretty much unmolested so it's always a concern with how much do I want to deviate from its originality.

 

[treihesse]

I will tell you I got a Taurus 130 amp 3 g alt from a pick and pull. Also took a mega fuse heavy gauge wiring and I think a fuse holder for less than half a reman 55 amp. The v pulley swaps over no problem and I have zero issues with running anything and everything

 

[Broncobowsher]

That original has served you well for many years. You have not mentioned anything like stadium lighting or a winch added. Without any more electrical demand than stock I don't see a need to upgrade. Save time, money, and aggravation and just rebuild what you have now.

When you start doing EFI, adding lights, huge stereo, winch. Stuff that will push you beyond that of a stock truck, that's the time for upgrades. And with most any upgrade, it isn't just one part change, its a whole chain of parts.

 

[treihesse]

I disagree with the statement that the stock one is sufficient. I have had 4 broncos. Some with stock harnesses and most with centech harnesses and up until my 3G alt install in my current rig every time I put on my lights and touch any other light, fan or horn the lights would dim. Not to mention they were terribly dim to begin with. The stock alt was inadequate for a v8 motor bronco running all the items it did.

The reason I note the new harness is new wiring that is more efficient should by nature make things brighter. It really did not help much. The 130 amp alt is a wonder upgrade to a bronco. You will see a difference in engine spark, head lights, tail lights, and heater fan function

 

[blubuckaroo]

The alternator is only going to generate the amperage your system demands from it. Without an additional load it would be a waste of time, in my opinion, to retrofit a larger one in. One of the nice things about the original is their really easy to rebuild. Also, if you keep the factory one, you can still use your factory wiring and ammeter.
The factory alternators were available in 45 and the 60 amp upgrade. My car came with the larger and it has always been plenty. I haven't done the light relay upgrade and haven't noticed any flickering or dimming at idle. I think some of the other owners may just have bad connections inn their wiring. ?:?

 

[DirtDonk]

Trei is one of the lucky ones it seems. There are a few here, but I'd have to say from just casual observation that roughly 80% of upgraded alternator installations (using non-stock cases) squeal at some point with the single V-belt.
Mine did when I went to the large-case 1G 70 amp alternator that I ran for years. A simple dual-belt setup (no power steering) fixed it easy.

Aside from a serpentine setup, dual v-belts seems to cure the issue. And it can look about as stock as anything, since your '77 would already have had more than one belt from the factory. And probably an additional one with that A/C setup?

There are different ways to skin this cat. After installing a dual-sheeve pulley on the alternator you can route the belts like this:
1. An extra long belt for the power steering that extends around the alternator. In theory you only lose some traction on the water pump and crank pullies, but those are not as power hungry as the p/s pump and alternator are anyway.
2. A second dedicated belt for the alt. This means a 3-groove pulley for both the water pump and crank, which you may already have?
3. I seem to remember a third variation that someone came up with recently, but can't recall the details.

Personally, with your desire to remain stock looking as much as is reasonable, I would either go with the usual 60-65 amp upgrade to the stock style. Even though they're available in 100 and even 130-150 amp models, that would not allow you to retain the stock wiring. So no more than about 75 amps would be recommended here.
Then IF it squeals, which it probably won't, you can spend likely under 10 bucks for a new pulley and fiddle with different belt combinations yourself.
With the stock size stator spinning in there too, there is less mass to spin. Which may mean less chance of squealing.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[Viperwolf1]

The alternator is only going to generate the amperage your system demands from it.

That's true, except at startup. At startup the battery voltage drops enough to cause the alternator to go into full charge. Full charge on a 40 amp alternator won't cause the belt to slip. Full charge on a 100 amp alternator will.

 

[treihesse]

Dirk I use the fastest belt I can on the v belt and tighten it with a long ass crow bar. Also seen a Double pulley setup too. I will say get as much surface area as you can on the pulley. I did put a stiffener on the mount to alt to take the flex out

 

[AxlesUp]

i have run many a 100+ amp alternators on v belts in various cars/trucks and never had one to squeal unless it was loose or the belt was shot/wet/oily or a crap belt/worn pulley.

don't get me wrong these days its almost impossible to find a descent belt more or less a quality one. generally the Goodyear belts are pretty good, but amazon is about the only place that carries them.

I currently have a 3g on my 73/351W with a modified bracket and it works great!

 

[WheelHorse]

Stock alternator is a 60A and I have not noticed any issues since upgrading to the SS regulator.

Alt pulley is a dual, crank is a 3 groove, water pump pulley would need another if I were to move to a true dual belt set up. Yes, she has PS.

Only because this has remained a near unmolested rig is why I would even question this upgrade (feasibility of 130A not squealing on a single v-belt that isn't almost over tensioned) , otherwise it would be a serp upgrade and 3G without a doubt.

 

[Rustytruck]

There is also the 90 amp small case 3g. That is the one I am setting up to use. The stock alternator I used and got by with for over 30 years but I live in So-Cal. It never kept up when you had to turn on anything more than the headlights. Turn on the wipers with the lights on and they dim. then go on and put on the defroster with everything else on and at idle you went to zero charge until you started driving and picked up RPM. SoCal Ok you get by, but live in Seattle or someplace wet and Foggy and you set at light holding the rpm up at idle.

 

[welndmn]

I have 3 rigs all with 130a 3GS all with v belts (one was just swapped to zero) they only squeeled durning winching.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Keep in mind that the belt could still slip and not squeal. Watch the voltmeter. If it's slipping it won't be charging.

 

[Ly-mo]

My truck desperately needs the upgrade-stock alt can't deliver enough current to maintain even 12 v idling with headlights, heater, and wiper going at the same time. Concern over how it will work with a v belt is one of the main things that keeps me from pulling the trigger...

Sounds like I should just do it...

 

[budone]

190 amp on a single V belt for 15 years with no issues. Just keep it tight. Oh and, as mentioned earlier, belt quality makes a difference.



Wes.

 

[jckkys]

I don't see the attraction in serpentine belts. After one broke in my wife's car I learned you only have seconds to shut down the engine if your doing 75-80 on the highway. Otherwise the engine overheats and boils over. The loss of power steering is the only warning. I installed a side terminal truck/police 100A alternator with a 2 groove pulley in my '77. The voltage regulator and harness from the regulator to alternator all came from the same car. Everything else is stock. There has been no belt noise or any other problem. I already had 2 groove pulleys on the water pump, and crank. The 2 belt system has one short belt to the crank, water pump, and alternator. Also a long belt to all the pulleys. This is similar to the arrangement Paul described, but I use stock single and 2 groove pulleys. The whole thing looks original and the 65A ammeter getting pinned occasionally is no problem. I can loose either belt and keep driving and at worst I loose power steering. This is far better than being dead in the water with a serpentine belt. Any high draw lighting I may add will be LED.

 

[904Bronco]

90 amp small case on my 77, single belt with smog pump. Dual pulley

Belt will start to squeal as it ages, quality of belt also affects noise... Gates and Goodyear seem good... Tension above average is needed.
I tried other belts with different V patterns to see if it made a difference with no success...

 

[gr8scott]

I've had good results with Goodyear Gatorback alt. v-belts...no slip, no squeal

 

[ntsqd]

I take heart in the observation that most high amp OEM alternators (pre serpentine) had dual belts. That tells me that Ford/GM/Mopar thought one belt wasn't enough to transmit the power required, or that with one belt that the belt tension had to be too high and would result in warranty issues for the front bearing in the alternator. Either way, two belts.

 

[phred]

I've run v-belt 130 amp alts with no issues. Even installed a 200amp on a truck and it works fine. Yeah if you need all 200 amps like a heavy winch pull or are running 4 stereo amplifiers then the belts start to slip a little, but how often are you loading the alt to the max. the key is to make sure the pulleys are lined up exactly, use good belts and set the tension correct.