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1966 alternator wiring issue

Oldtimer

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It appears on the 66 the alternator field & ground went to 2 of the contacts on the 3 contact plug, and the alternator B+ went to the junction block wher there BK/YE wire from main harness was terminated.
2022-10-09_124737.png


jnirenstein may only need to cut the alternator B+ wire loose at the harness plug, crimp on an eye lug and attach it to the junction block. Hopefully the DC main harness plug doesn't have a wire attached to the center contact.

 
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jnirenstein

jnirenstein

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Is that stud with the two wires in the lower right of the picture what pulled out of a junction block?
Good question!! If so, you can see that there were 2 wires going to that junction block. Viperwolf1 Where did the other end of the cut black wire on that stud connect to??
 
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jnirenstein

jnirenstein

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It appears on the 66 the alternator field & ground went to 2 of the contacts on the 3 contact plug, and the alternator B+ went to the junction block wher there BK/YE wire from main harness was terminated.
View attachment 889729

jnirenstein may only need to cut the alternator B+ wire loose at the harness plug, crimp on an eye lug and attach it to the junction block. Hopefully the DC main harness plug doesn't have a wire attached to the center contact.

Can you tell me what you mean by "B+" wire? I've got ground, field, stator, Battery....as the 4 possible connections on the alternator.
 

Viperwolf1

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Good question!! If so, you can see that there were 2 wires going to that junction block. Viperwolf1 Where did the other end of the cut black wire on that stud connect to??
I believe that one is the one that goes into the driver side of the firewall.
 

DirtDonk

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You’re probably overthinking this because of the confusion between mixing harnesses.
The fact that nobody makes an exact duplicate of the early 66 harness is messing you up.

You need ONE wire from the BAT terminal that runs through the entire vehicle then back out to the starter relay’s battery side. If you want to retain your original terminal block, and I think it sounds like you do, then you need to modify the alternator harness to suit your desire.

Is the wire that’s on there right now black with yellow? It looks mostly yellow, but that may just be a very wide stripe.
 

DirtDonk

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There’s another thing that maybe viper is the only one right now that can answer.
The extra wire on the back of the original alternator is unusual. When they changed to the newer style harness, only the BAT and GRD and FLD terminals were used on the back of the alternator.
 
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jnirenstein

jnirenstein

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You’re probably overthinking this because of the confusion between mixing harnesses.
The fact that nobody makes an exact duplicate of the early 66 harness is messing you up.

You need ONE wire from the BAT terminal that runs through the entire vehicle then back out to the starter relay’s battery side. If you want to retain your original terminal block, and I think it sounds like you do, then you need to modify the alternator harness to suit your desire.

Is the wire that’s on there right now black with yellow? It looks mostly yellow, but that may just be a very wide stripe.
Your probably right! I am both overthinking and confused! Thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it!! Once I get the exhaust system in place I'll fire it up and see if I'm charging. If not, then I'll go from there.
 

Oldtimer

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Can you tell me what you mean by "B+" wire? I've got ground, field, stator, Battery....as the 4 possible connections on the alternator.
Sorry, B+ is from the Battery terminal on the alternator.
I would have said black/yellow stripe, but your alternator harness may have different colors?
Again a picture of the new alternator and main harness connectors would help.
 

DirtDonk

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Personally I wouldn’t even hook up the battery until you get this sorted out. But it’s up to you…
 

DirtDonk

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Remember, it’s a single loop.
A short section from the output terminal of the alternator to the stud on the terminal block. The other wire goes up into the vehicle cabin around the dash to power all sorts of accessories and then back out the firewall to charge the battery at the starter relay.
So you need one end of that wire on the battery side of the starter relay, and the other end of that wire on the terminal stud. Then just a short section to the alternator.
That’s it.

But until we see more pictures the bottom line is don’t connect the battery and at least for now don’t use that 3-wire connector until you sort out what each wire does.
 
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jnirenstein

jnirenstein

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Remember, it’s a single loop.
A short section from the output terminal of the alternator to the stud on the terminal block. The other wire goes up into the vehicle cabin around the dash to power all sorts of accessories and then back out the firewall to charge the battery at the starter relay.
So you need one end of that wire on the battery side of the starter relay, and the other end of that wire on the terminal stud. Then just a short section to the alternator.
That’s it.

But until we see more pictures the bottom line is don’t connect the battery and at least for now don’t use that 3-wire connector until you sort out what each wire does.
Yes! I'm using a regulated power supply that will cut off automatically if it senses a fault. So are you proposing that I eliminate the wire that runs from the alternator side of the 3 wire plug in the alternator harness to the FLD connection, and Replace it with a short jumper directly from the FLD terminal on the alternator to the Junction block? Because that is what I am thinking will solve the issue... As Viperwolf1 has commented only 2 wires of that plug are actually used on a 66. If you look at the photo of the setup I have now you can see a Black/Yellow wire attached to the junction block and directly above that is a #10 gauge black wire attached to the BAT side of the starter relay. This is the loop you are talking about. I'm sorry to take up so much of your time!!!!
 

DirtDonk

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Yes, that is the loop.
And what you need to put to that loop is a short section of wire from the alternator to the terminal block. Just like you had originally.
The reason I said don’t use the three wire plug has nothing to do with whether it has one, two, or three wires connected to it. It has everything to do with what their orientation is. If they all match, great. If they don’t then you are just asking for trouble.
If the field wire matches the field wire and the ground wire matches the ground wire then by all means use it.
But if there’s a black with yellow wire that doesn’t go to a black with yellow wire you still have other things to worry about.

I’m not proposing you eliminate anything and replace it with a jumper. At least not yet.
Not until we determine exactly what you have, which we have not yet.
But as I just said above, if your field wire in the three wire plug goes to the field terminals of both the regulator and the alternator, you don’t need to change it.

You need to give us the rundown. Short of precise pictures of where everything goes you need to trace every one of those wires that is in the two mis-matched harnesses. Or use them as they are made and illuminate the junction block connection.

You just need to make sure that the wires go where they’re supposed to and do what they are supposed to.
In the picture that shows the new harness you said one end of the loop with the black and yellow wire is on the terminal block and the other end is on the starter relay. That’s great, but you need for the alternator to be on that circuit too.
That is done by connecting the same gauge wire from the BAT terminal of the alternator directly to the junction block.
I’m guessing it will not go through the three wire connector, but I can’t say for sure at this point.
 
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jnirenstein

jnirenstein

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Yes, that is the loop.
And what you need to put to that loop is a short section of wire from the alternator to the terminal block. Just like you had originally.
The reason I said don’t use the three wire plug has nothing to do with whether it has one, two, or three wires connected to it. It has everything to do with what their orientation is. If they all match, great. If they don’t then you are just asking for trouble.
If the field wire matches the field wire and the ground wire matches the ground wire then by all means use it.
But if there’s a black with yellow wire that doesn’t go to a black with yellow wire you still have other things to worry about.

I’m not proposing you eliminate anything and replace it with a jumper. At least not yet.
Not until we determine exactly what you have, which we have not yet.
But as I just said above, if your field wire in the three wire plug goes to the field terminals of both the regulator and the alternator, you don’t need to change it.

You need to give us the rundown. Short of precise pictures of where everything goes you need to trace every one of those wires that is in the two mis-matched harnesses. Or use them as they are made and illuminate the junction block connection.

You just need to make sure that the wires go where they’re supposed to and do what they are supposed to.
In the picture that shows the new harness you said one end of the loop with the black and yellow wire is on the terminal block and the other end is on the starter relay. That’s great, but you need for the alternator to be on that circuit too.
That is done by connecting the same gauge wire from the BAT terminal of the alternator directly to the junction block.
I’m guessing it will not go through the three wire connector, but I can’t say for sure at this point.
Thanks! I'll let you know how it goes! Btw, Silly question but do you work at WH or do you own it? or neither?
 

DirtDonk

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Not a silly question at all. I work there as a sales/tech advisor.
But for the past few years I have not spent much time actually at the office, but instead work from home and sometimes out in the field.

In other words, happy to help answer questions when I can, especially about our parts. But if you need to order one of them, don’t try to contact me and hope I get back to the computer before it’s too late! :)
 
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