1966 brake drum and hub removal

[1966Halfer]

Was the 66 hub and drum different from later model? the drum and hub are integrated. How in the heck do the drum and hub come off? I have taken the hub and the ring clip??? off.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Take the lockout apart.
Remove the wheel bearing lock nut, keyed and pinned lockwasher (pulls straight out), and inner retaining nut.
To get at the brakes you must also take the wheel bearings off the spindle.
The drum should be a press fit onto the studs along with the hub. Sometimes it isn't pressed very well, but if you are asking how to get it off, it still has a good press fit.

The backs just slide off, the fronts are NOT like the backs.

 

[1966Halfer]

I guess I need the wheel bearing lock nut removal tool. Where can I find one of those?

 

[chase8266]

Auto parts stores will have them,

 

[1966Halfer]

Having a heck of a time finding one for the dana 30.

 

[Broncobowsher]

It is the same as the one for the D44. Looks like a piece of pipe with 4 evenly spaced tits on it. That same tool fits so many different vehicles that it is in most any parts store. Fits half ton Ford, Dodge, Chevy, Jeep for decades. There are not that many different tools, you are probably over researching the tool. The one I have fits every small 4WD axle I have ever been into that has servicable wheel bearings.

 

[1966Halfer]

Thanks...I will continue my search tomorrow.

 

[1966Halfer]

I must be going crazy. The inside diameter of the hub is ONLY 2". The necessary wheel bearing socket is 2 and 3/8"...outside diameter.

 

[DirtDonk]

Either you've got some weird setup, or you don't have all the parts out yet.
Have you removed everything inside the hubs, and can see all the way down the splines to the bearings? The spindle and it's threads will be riding in the middle of all that, with the small splines end of the axle shaft sticking out of it's center.
You should be able to clearly see the outer nut with it's 4 notches.

The opening on a standard wheel hub is quite a bit larger than the 2" that you're talking about, so something seems amiss. What is the far-outside diameter of your hub? Should be roughly 3/16" thick material outside the outer splines. Roughly 3.25" outer diameter, therefore roughly a 2 3/4" to 2 7/8" inside the splines?

If not, you still have some digging to do. I know we run into '66 differences all the time, but "officially" anyway, your '66 uses the same stuff as they did all the way into the '80's and beyond.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

The actuating knob on the '66 lockouts was different than later models, but the inner mechanism should be the same I think. How many parts have you removed so far?

There is a good diagram running around here showing all the parts, but you should have a good 7 or 8 parts before you get to the nuts.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[Broncobowsher]

This is a 4WD Bronco, right?
I don't see how the inner diameter could only be 2"

Look this over, skip the bottom 4 pictures, but work your way backwards. The hub is the same for disk and drum (except for that bolt thing on the conversions that you don't have to worry about). I will keep looking for better step by step on how to do front wheel bearings.

 

[1966Halfer]

I have everything out...down to the locknut. Yes, the axle shaft is riding in the middle of all this. I wonder if this is even a dana 30...if something else was used in the really early days. I may have to use the VIN number to research...if even possible. I think I need to post pictures as well.

 

[Broncobowsher]

We know what was origonally on these, I doubt you have anything other then a Dana 30.
At this point, pictures would really be good.

 

[1966Halfer]

check it out!

http://gallery.me.com/stephhop#100463

 

[Explorer]

You need to remove some more parts. This a Dana 44 but hubs are same.

 

[1966Halfer]

Which parts and how? How am I going to get the 2 3/8 inch socket into a 2 inch hub?

 

[DirtDonk]

That splined thingy that's sticking out past the outermost hub material is part of your lockout assembly. Not sure what brand, or if it's original, but the piece I see has to come out.
Can you push it in a bit? Does it feel like it's being pushed out by a spring?
Inside the outermost circumference you'll see some sort of large snap-ring. Either of round stock with an opening (think piston ring) or of flat stock and wound like a flat spring. Either way, you'll need a pair of fine picks or super small screwdrivers to flip the end out of the groove and sort of "peel" the ring out.
Once you get the ring out all that junk in the middle is going to slide out along the outer splines of the outer hub.

Got any pics of the knob part you've already removed? This is not a stock later model Spicer-type hub lockout assembly. If it's original, then there was a difference between the years. If it's aftermarket, then that would explain the difference here.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Hmm, did you already remove some splined guts from this piece, along with a flat-stock coiled spring, by any chance?

And for clarity's sake, that rusty-colored outer metal piece is the "hub". You should be able to see the ring-clip thingy I was talking about before in it's inner circumference. Just outside of the piece you've been messing with.

Hang in there. We'll get it' licked one way or the other.
Got a torch? Just kidding!

Paul

 

[Explorer]

Even once you are sure nothing is keeping it from pulling out as Paul said, if the hub has been bent slightly from rocks, hammer etc. it make still take some persuation. I still have the one I pulled out of my 66, if no results by tomorrow I'll try to lay the pieces out in order and post a pic for you.

 

[1966Halfer]

The lock out hub is a SEARS (believe it or not). These have been on this pony for over 25 years that I have owned it. They work very well even this many years later. I thought the interior splined piece was integrated into the hub. When you push on it...it does not feel spring loaded.