1974 Bronco handling issues

[m_m70]

Thanks Guys!
Yes - my next move (today) is to revisit the toe and target the front side measurement to 1/4 - 3/8" less than the back side measurement.
Depending upon how that acts and feels, I'm going to get a drop pitman arm and was planning on going with the "drop" track arm bracket versus the "riser" type just because I don't have welding capabilities here and I assume the drop bracket is a bolt on.
My track arm bar and steering link are pretty much perfectly parallel but I really get the whole "too much angle" on both deal. The way I'm viewing it in my head now is: when I turn the steering wheel, the steering link is trying to drive into the ground instead of pushing laterally but because its physically attached to the tie rod, it really has no choice but to go side to side - still, its natural direction of movement is down at the present angle - so I'm probably getting a jerky down/side to side when I'm cruising and the Bronco is bouncing around on uneven roads - exactly what it feels like anyway. As for the tack bar, the whole principle of it is to control & maintain the horizontal centering relationship between the dana 44 and the frame and the greater the angle its sits at, the more compromised it becomes and the less effective it is, i would imagine - what I mean is, there is probably a magical angle that if exceeded, the track arm might actually pull the front end toward the driver side and purposely cause off-centering. I don't think I'm even close to that but when a 3000 lb Bronco with 33s starts dancing on a pothole filled road, who knows what happens with that angle??
The bottom line in my mind right now is: get the steering link and track arm bar as flat to the ground as possible and keep them parallel with each other.

thanks to everyone for their thoughts. other than getting another Bronco (this is my second), meeting my wife and having two great boys - joining this forum was one of my best moves!

hats off and many thanks to the entire CB.com community - you guys & gals are great.

DJs74

Welding the drop bracket after its bolted is a must. But, I bolted mine in and was able to take it to a muffler shop and they welded it in for me for like 15.00. Money well spent and I didn't have to have a shop install or loose any driving time. Just a thought.......

 

[DJs74]

OK, 10-4 Guys - I will install a drop bracket and have it welded.
I did install a drop bracket on a 78 F150 and it was just bolt on using the factory eyelet and 2 bolts through the frame.
I did notice that my factory track bar bracket is welded but why a bolt with a spot weld on the hex?? I thought someone (not Ford) did this for some reason prior to me but the more I read, I think maybe Ford did hit the hex with a spot weld?

 

[DirtDonk]

Yep, factory. Not 100% sure why it was done this way, but my guess has always been that on such a critical component, that literally holds the steering of your rig in it's little hands, would benefit from an additional fastening method (the bolt) in case you ever experience a cracked weld for whatever reason.
An impact, or long term wear, but since welds do fail sometimes, it always seemed to me to be a prudent bit of insurance.
And maybe it just takes some of the stresses off of the welds in the first place?

Paul

 

[DJs74]

Hey everyone,

Just wanted to put a period on this thread and say thanks a million times over for the warm welcome and all the advice.

Yesterday, I installed the drop ptiman arm and adjusted the toe. A couple of days a go, I adjusted air pressures to 25 all around. The handling issues I had prior to joining this site are all but gone thanks to everyone's insight, experiences and advice. I took it out on my rural, rutted, bumpy road yesterday evening - slow and steady at first and after I realized things were pretty good, I unleashed it up to about 65 MPH and it felt very fine.

What's kind of weird is that my track bar to steering link relationship looked pretty decent prior to the drop pitman and looks just as good now (like no big change in the parallel relation), but I'm still going to drop the track bar as soon as I figure out whether I purchase one or make one. I think 3 pieces of 3/8" or 1/2" steel plate would work fine with some measuring, cutting and welding and I might even make a couple of holes for the track bar so I have have options and ability to adjust.

thanks again,

DJs74

 

[croft75]

Hey guys,

my caster number from the alignment yesterday was 2.47°

so, if I'm suppose to shoot for 5 - 6°, I'm just about half way there it seems


thanks,

DJs74

Your problem sounds just like the problems I had on my 75, I added a 3.5 lift 7* c bushings, bigger tires and a drop bracket, But it darted like crazy. I tried all of the above suggestions to no solution.
What did work in the end was rotate the knuckles it is a bit of work but it now works perfectly. I think some people just get really lucky on there lifts and some don't.