2001 Mountaineer 5.0 EFI to carb conversion

[Timmy390]

Has anyone done this? I need a new engine for my 74 Bronco 302 3 speed and happened upon a good deal or at least I think it’s a good deal. It’s a complete running engine . I just need to pull it. Total cost is $250 if I pull it and $300 if I want them to pull it. It has 144K on it but that’s OK by me as I’m not planning on dogging it that much.

I just have a few questions as to what I need. I’ve done lots of reading and know it’s not the best EFI conversion to the Bronco so I wanted to carb it instead. Keeping the cost low is a priority.

I have a few questions and hoping you experts can answer. I have a 302 low rise cast iron intake that I’m sure will fit (was told so anyway) and a Holley 4 barrel to put on top with air filter.

1. Will the MTR engine bolt up to my current bell housing (I was told yes)?
2. Will my current flywheel work?
3. Will the MTR PS pump work on the Bronco?
4. If I go V-belt, what water pump do I need or is serpentine the way to go?
5. What timing cover is needed to run a mechanical fuel pump?
6. What distributer will work and is it a drop in?
7. Duraspark , MSD ignition or H.E.I works best?
8. Can I integrate the coil packs from the MTR or do I need a new coil?
9. Do I need a new oil pump shaft (understand Ford sells two long and short)?
10. Will my current valve covers fit the MTR engine (I was told yes)?
11. Will my current headers mount up (I was told yes)?
12. Will my current crank pulley bolt to the Mount crank?
13. Do I need to change out the balancer?
14. Do I need to change the MTR oil pan (was told I have to)?

Sorry for all the questions but don’t want this to slip through my fingers if it’s doable.
Please chime in with any advice you can give.
Thanks Tim

 

[73azbronco]

Mountaineer is nothing more than an expensive explorer, right? there you go.

 

[Broncobowsher]

1 yes
2 no, the imbalance factor is wrong
3 yes, but you will need other hose options
4 Use the mountaineer serpentine setup. converting back to V-belt will require chaning everything in front of the timing chain (including the timing chain cover) and will leave you with more engine balance isses as the damper has another balance correction that will be different. The Explorer (mountaineer) accessory drive is a disired upgrade as you get a great set of accessories and a clutched fan.
5 no mechanical fuel pump possible with the new front drive, do a carter P4070 electric
6 '85 mustang GT with a 5-speed. It is the only factory distributor to have the correct steel gear for the roller cam and a normal duraspark for non-computer use.
7 Duraspark distributor, ignition box of your choice
8 no coil packs, those are computer driven. you will need a coil to go with the ignition box you picked above
9 Probably but not 100% sure
10 yes
11 maybe. If you have the GTP (or "P" heads, 4-bar heads, external EGR motor) then there is probably going to be issues with burning plug wires on the header tubes. So it will depend on the heads and what headers you have. Some are better then others.
12 no, completely different design
13 no, keep the mountaineer damper (balancer) with the accessory drive. Your old damper will bolt on, but the balance will be wrong
14 no. Although some people are leary of the cast pan if that is what you have. but there are several who run the stock late model pan and it fit fine.

 

[Timmy390]

Thanks Broncobowsher,

So on the flywheel, I’ll need a 50 oz. imbalance correct?
I see two listed, 157 or 164 tooth is needed?
I’m guessing it depends on if I use the current starter or the starter off the MTR?

Sounds like I’m going to be picking up an engine this weekend.
Tim

 

[Broncobowsher]

The flywheel tooth count is based on the bellhousing. The bellhousing indexes the starter a distance away from the centerline of the crank. you need the right number of teeth to reach out and touch the starter gear. 164 is normal for Bronco/truck. 157 is typical car.

The starter is another area where there are differences. this time in depth. how far from the mounting surface the gear is pushed out. For the most part manual and auto are different. But newer manual started adapting the auto starter. But the Bronco bellhousing will need the manual starter.

 

[mp]

I did this swap about a year ago--98 Explorer with the original Motorcraft 2100 2 Barrel and stock radiator. Used a factory aluminum intake, and bought the right flywheel from Summit for about $60 or so. Had to get a new gear for the distributor, and the GTO upper hose and Powerstroke lower hose. Reused the aftermarket mini starter. Bolted it all up to my NP435 that was already in the truck.

Added an external fuel pump near the tank. Used the aftermarket heavy duty motor mounts. Bought the little adapter for the clutch linkage to mount to the 5.0 block. Kept the factory PS pump and reservoir (I have a two inch body lift and fiberglass hood).

Biggest pain was dealing with headers for the GT40p heads, but there are some options out there--just not that cheap.

Power increase was pretty awesome, but I have not had a chance to wheel it yet.

 

[bigmuddy]

The best/cheapest option for the GT40P heads is to run the stock bronco manifolds and do some judicious grinding to make the plugs and wires fit. You may still need to run the hi-temp plug sleeves as well. I think Tito came up with this and we did the same on kbldawgs rig, works like a champ and its pretty damn cheap.

 

[Timmy390]

Thanks for all the help/advice on this project. I guess I'll start on this as soon as I get my steering and rear gears sorted out.

Tim

 

[Schreiber]

Keep us posted on this conversion. Should be cool.

 

[bronco loco]

Thanks for all the help/advice on this project. I guess I'll start on this as soon as I get my steering and rear gears sorted out.

Tim

Hey Tim, any updates?