3 1/2" Lift question

[Ryanmk12]

Hey I am going to be installing my 3 1/2" lift on my 75 EB. I am piecing together my lift. Thanks to the good members of Classic Bronco I have front coils, rear blocks, U bolts, and new(used) shocks. I am going to get extended brake lines next. My question is what else do I need to get for it. I am not to worried if it has a little lean or if the front is shifted one way about 1/2". If you could help me out here I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.

 

[Ryanmk12]

I forgot to add that I have drive shafts that are about 2" longer. And the Bronco is going to be used for wheeling and mud, and maybe a day or two to work when it gets warm out.

 

[HollywoodC]

New pitman arm and a Track bar drop bracket

 

[DirtDonk]

Yep, what he said.
Those are a must. Adjustable trackbar and draglink make it even better. But you have to drop the pitman arm and either raise or lower the trackbar to correct the angles.

Even though not 100% required for normal use, longer parking brake cables are a good addition if you want to avoid using your stock ones as suspension limiting straps.

Paul

 

[DAKOTA7720]

Likewise! E-brake cables will most likely be too short.

 

[garberz]

Rethink the rear blocks, and get some 3 1/3" leaf springs.

 

[HollywoodC]

Get an 11 pack rear leaf spring!

 

[Madgyver]

If you can weld and have access to a welder. You already have everything that you need.

For the rear, flip the shackles and mounts, that'll give you 3.5" lift
The E brake cable bracket can be lowered same as the other brakeline brackets so you can still use the existing lines.
Relocate tracbar mount on axle to center the front and do a tie-rod over conversion to reduce bumpsteer. Use 7* C-bushungs.

 

[rsharpnm]

Same year, same lift size as mine. x3 on the drop pittman arm and track bar. Your track bar MUST be parallel with your drag link. Otherwise, you will meet Mister Bumpsteer, and he's no fun.

Also, if you're gonna wheel and - especially MUD - I'd rethink the rear blocks. I know they're cheaper and easier to install, by those are levers between your spring pack and axle tube. You womp on the gas pedal, a lot of twist gets applied to those blocks and they can do nasty things, like exit the vehicle.

Good luck, amigo!

 

[Skiddy]

if you have to use the lift blocks, best thing is use some type of anti wrap bar

 

[Ryanmk12]

Thanks for everything so far. I am going to go with pitman arm drop and trac bar bracket drop.

My E brake cables have a lot of slack to to so i can let it out and it will work.

How do I get the stock brakelines to work?

 

[bmc69]

I hate trackbar drop brackets and will never use one. I do get a lot of free steaks, beer and sometimes cash at wheeling events every time I replace the section of frame, with my mobile welding rig, that was torn out when the track bar bracket took it off.;D

I don't mean to be snide. But my son's half cab (grey one with white cab that pics were jsut posted of on the MEB Roundup thread) has a WH 3.5" lift and the stock '76 track bar configuration. The pitman arm is alos stock. The drag link and track bar are perfectly parallel to each other and it drives on the highway at 65-70 like a dream. Just sayin..

Mad had a good suggestion related to that. Relocating and raising the track bar mount on the axle is always preferrable to a dop bracket on the frame.

 

[bmc69]

if you have to use the lift blocks, best thing is use some type of anti wrap bar

x2..or 3..whatever.

 

[Broncobowsher]

if you have to use the lift blocks, best thing is use some type of anti wrap bar

Another recomendation.
Make sure it has a floating pivot (like a shackle) at the front and not a tension style traction aid. Those become less effective with blocks as the geometery goes bad with blocks. And finally, iron blocks, not aluminium.

 

[rsharpnm]

Thanks for everything so far. I am going to go with pitman arm drop and trac bar bracket drop.

My E brake cables have a lot of slack to to so i can let it out and it will work.

How do I get the stock brakelines to work?

The stock ones should be okay for time being... you can get extendeds later, but I ran my stock ones for a couple of years before replacing them with extended ones, mainly because they were all old and cracked, not because they were too short.

 

[Madgyver]

Mad had a good suggestion related to that. Relocating and raising the track bar mount on the axle is always preferrable to a dop bracket on the frame.

Thank you for backing up my statement...;D

 

[Ryanmk12]

Does anyone have a picture of an anti wrap bar? also a picture of how the trac bracket could be relocated? thanks.

Any suggestions if i have to put extended brake lines on?

 

[robofig]

Search is your friend.

 

[Dano 407]

Likewise! E-brake cables will most likely be too short.

With a moderate lift, you can but a new "long side" and install it on the "short side" then drop the body bracket (or move it toward the center) a bit to compensate. The "long side" is rarely the limiting factor here.