• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

3 wire to 1 wire alternator conversion issue - Need help!

kayakersteve

Sr. Member
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
882
Loc.
Western NY State
I have switched the alternator and obviously, the hook up is very straight forward, but... Do I need to do anything with the left over three wires from the old one??? I ask this because when all hooked up and with fully charged battery, it just clicks at the solenoid when I attempt to turn over. Have I overlooked something simple??

Any help would be greatly appreciated - Wondering if any of the leftover three wire needs to be connected or changed in some way or if should just be taped and left unhooked???

I know, Not a genius when it comes to this, but I can sew your finger back on if you amputate it!
 
Last edited:

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
I have switched the alternator and obviously, the hook up is very straight forward, but... Do I need to do anything with the left over three wires from the old one??? I ask this because when all hooked up and with fully charged battery, it just clicks at the solenoid when I attempt to turn over. Have I overlooked something simple??

Any help would be greatly appreciated - Wondering if any of the leftover three wire needs to be connected or changed in some way or if should just be taped and left unhooked???

I know, Not a genius when it comes to this, but I can sew your finger back on if you amputate it!
It doesn't help not knowing what all you disconnected to install the alternator, but I don't think any leftover wires should prevent the engine from turning over.

The soleniod is just a switch. It connects the battery to the starter. So, you need a complete path, from the battery to the solenoid, from the other side of the solenoid to the starter, and from the engine block back to the - side of the battery. If the solenoid is clicking, it should be connecting the battery to the starter. So... What else is missing???

Of the wires left over from your conversion.... Cap off the big black w/red stripe wire. Remove the orange and yellow wires, along with the regulator. Hang onto, and cap off, the Green w/ red stripe wire. This is a Hot-in-run wire. Always handy to have in the engine compartment.
 
OP
OP
kayakersteve

kayakersteve

Sr. Member
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
882
Loc.
Western NY State
I am not sure

Of the wires left over from your conversion.... Cap off the big black w/red stripe wire. Remove the orange and yellow wires, along with the regulator. Hang onto, and cap off, the Green w/ red stripe wire. This is a Hot-in-run wire. Always handy to have in the engine compartment

There were three wires to the existing alternator - A big black one, a small black one and a small red one - Do I need to do anything with these?? Do I need to remove the voltage regulator? Isn't it out of service with the wires not hooked up? Can I just leave it there?
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Any thoughts why solenoid is clicking now when I turn over, but never did before??
The soleniod is just a switch. It connects the battery to the starter. So, you need a complete path, from the battery to the solenoid, from the other side of the solenoid to the starter, and from the engine block back to the - side of the battery. If the solenoid is clicking, it should be connecting the battery to the starter. So... What else is missing???
The starter circuit is pretty simple. Positive battery cable to the BAT+ side of the solenoid. STArter side of the solenoid to the starter. Engine block to the negative side of the battery. The solenoid is just a switch (didn't someone just say that... ?:?) If you hear the solenoid clicking, it's trying to connect the battery to the starter. Check all the connections I mentioned. If they're all good, use a meter/test light and see if you have 12 volts on the STArter side of the solenoid when you energize the solenoid. If you don't have a meter/test light, take a jumper cable and connect the positive battery cable to the STArter side of the solenoid. Does the engine turn over? If you don't have 12 volts on the STArter side of the solenoid when it's energized, or, by jumping out the solenoid with the jumper cables, you get the engine to turn over, chances are your solenoid is bad.

None of this takes into consideration any wierd wiring thing you might have done when installing the alternator. Any high output alternator should have the output of the alternator connected to either the positive battery terminal, or, more conveniently, the BAT+ side of the solenoid. Are you sure you put all the wires/cables back on the solenoid?

Got a picture of the solenoid with the new wiring?
 
OP
OP
kayakersteve

kayakersteve

Sr. Member
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
882
Loc.
Western NY State
I will check

I hooked the Positve from the alternator directly to the positive on the battery as the directions recommneded with a 4 gauge wire - I considered going to the positive on the solenoid becuase that would have saved me wiring costs as I have my battery on the drivers side - I made no changes to the solenoid wiring and it just clicks when I attempt to turn over - Battery shows fully charged on charger - I will recheck all connections later to make sure something isn't loose.
 
Top