302 EFI Swap ?'s EGR, Hose Routing, Valve Covers

[PlaneDrvr99]

Have a 76 EB with the 302. Rebuilding the 302. Got parts from the 86-93 5.0 mustang family. Upper and lower intakes, 65mm Throttle Body, All new sensors and 19lb injectors, A9P computer.

Gotta figure out which cam I want to replace mine with due to the fact that I want to have the correct firing order, also haven't decided on what distributer or coil to run yet. From what I am reading, it doesnt really matter that I have a MSD or high end distributer due to the low rpms the 302 runs in. Thoughts ideas ?
I didn't plan on remounting the EGR spacer since I will be using a RJM harness with the EGR eliminator. So I will have the throttle body mounted directly to the upper intake. Is this okay ?

Also can anyone tell me where all the hoses and lines go? I think there are two that come from the underside of the upper intake and one that comes off the throttle body.

The throttle body one I think connects to the oil fill on the passanger side valve cover. If that is correct, then what valve covers did you guys run on your 302 so that everything jives?

I tried looking at oldfuelinjection.com but didn't really find any solid answers.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Viperwolf1]

351w cam will give you the correct 137... firing order.

You have no choice on distributor. Must use Ford TFI. TFI coil is fine choice too.

Block the EGR passage in the intake if you don't plan to use the EGR spacer.

You need a vacuum line for the PCV valve, fuel pressure regulator, one for trans modulator (C4), one for brake booster. Evey other intake port can be plugged.

Use mustang style valve covers. They are sealed except for fresh air port which gets connected to the throttle body.

 

[PlaneDrvr99]

Any chance anyone has pictures of this ?

I will be running Hydroboost so the brake booster is out of the equation.

As far as the distributor, I guess the stock 5.0 mustang is the best or only choice. I think I have seen those go for as cheap as $25 shipped on ebay. Anything special I should know about the TFI module mounted to the distributor? I thought maybe I have heard of some kind of upgrade.?.?.? I could just be imagining this though...

Thanks again.

 

[Viperwolf1]

TFI needs to be grey, push start module. You can use a remote TFI but it takes some harness work and a different distributor. Make sure you get a distributor with a cast iron gear to work with a flat tappet cam. Steel gears are for roller cams.

Lots of pics around. Not sure what you want to see.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Any chance anyone has pictures of this ?

I will be running Hydroboost so the brake booster is out of the equation.

As far as the distributor, I guess the stock 5.0 mustang is the best or only choice. I think I have seen those go for as cheap as $25 shipped on ebay. Anything special I should know about the TFI module mounted to the distributor? I thought maybe I have heard of some kind of upgrade.?.?.? I could just be imagining this though...

Thanks again.

Mustang distributor has a steel gear to match the roller cam.
Sounds like you will be running a flat tappet cam, you need a cast gear on the distributor.
Get them mixed up and the 2 gears (cam and distributor) will self destruct and dump metal shavings into the engine during the process.

 

[PlaneDrvr99]

Well I guess I could change the lifters and cam over to a roller setup since I am rebuilding the motor or see if I can just change the distributer gear. I'm not positive but I think they can be pressed on and off. I would have to read up on it though.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Well I guess I could change the lifters and cam over to a roller setup since I am rebuilding the motor or see if I can just change the distributer gear. I'm not positive but I think they can be pressed on and off. I would have to read up on it though.

To use the affordable roller cam options you need an '85 and newer block with the taller lifter bores and dog bone retainers. There are retrofit kits for the older blocks, but they are not cost effective. Getting a newer roller block is less money.

 

[NYLES]

To use the affordable roller cam options you need an '85 and newer block with the taller lifter bores and dog bone retainers. There are retrofit kits for the older blocks, but they are not cost effective. Getting a newer roller block is less money.

Im with Bb on this id run the flat tap before I went looking for another block or the retro fit lifters, youll never notice the firing order difference...retro lifters aint cheap!

Unless youve done nothin so far on this project.

 

[PlaneDrvr99]

Damn, I was unaware of all this. I am hearing 50/50 on the "Changing the firing order". Some people have told me that the engine really smoothed out when they changed the cam to get the proper firing order while others are telling me it doesn't matter.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Damn, I was unaware of all this. I am hearing 50/50 on the "Changing the firing order". Some people have told me that the engine really smoothed out when they changed the cam to get the proper firing order while others are telling me it doesn't matter.

Yep, it is a 50/50 shot from everything I have heard as well. Never heard that it got worse with the right firing order. So
corrct firing order, no issues
Wrong firing order, 50/50.
Given the chance I know what I would do.

Then again I also know people who really doesn't know a good running engine from a bad running one. So long as it starts and stays running (no matter how poorly it is running) they will think it "runs good". Go used car shopping looking at cheap cars and you will get a lot of this.

 

[PlaneDrvr99]

So goes the story of my life, 50/50... Just curious, what is the ballpark figure on the retrofit roller lifters.

Sorry but this is the first 302 i've built.