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302 rebuild questions for the motor guys

Attac

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I just pulled the motor apart that came with my sons bronco that we are building. The guy I bought it from said that he had just rebuilt it about 500 miles before he started pulling the bronco apart to restore it. Well the motor is really clean inside and the bores measure as a 40 over and the Pistons and rods look great.
So.. I am going to get the block cleaned and fluxed and dimensions all checked by a local machine shop. I will have them install all new cam bushings and freeze plugs.
I know I am going to use roller lifters and rockers..
I have a performer intake that came with it and I am putting a fitech FI unit on it. It will have stock style exhaust manifolds but I will port and polish them for better flow.
The question is:
What cam, valves etc to use to have a motor that produces @300 hp total but more importantly produces about 300-350 of torque at @2500-3500rpm.
I am ahead of the game since the majority of the motor machine work seems to be done so I have some cash to spend on headwork etc if needed.
Thanks Chuck
 
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Attac

Attac

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Also valves are factory size 178/148 I think I measured. I have a pic of pistons below.
 

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Attac

Attac

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Another with part number
 

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DirtDonk

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Your torque numbers are not out of line. Remember that the stock engine produced a little over 300 lbs, so your goal would be more in the 350 range I would think.
Power-wise, 300 is healthy, but not unachievable with an engine that's still good for the street. Just don't lose sight of gearing and tire size though. Even with good power that's still your big deal-breaker.

Why the new bushings (bearings?) and freeze plugs? Or do you mean the plug at the end of the cam bore at the back? Just curious since it was rebuilt was some of that stuff not done?
Not a bad idea to have it checked though. You're putting a lot of work into something that's more of an unknown still. You never know that the PO didn't have Gas Monkey's engine builder do it! If so, a dead cam for sure!;D

I'll see if I can find a couple of the cam numbers I've seen run that everyone seems happy with. Don't know the power numbers as nobody I know has done a dyno, but it shouldn't be hard to guess. The one from Comp Cams that the NorCalBronco guys are running is a real puller.

Paul
 
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Attac

Attac

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Thanks Paul,
The reason for the cam bushings is that I know I am gonna change the cam because I want to get some higher torque at lower rpms and since I'm gonna be in there I might as well. As you said I am dealing with unknowns so better safe than sorry. This is going in my sons bronco. I am building 4.11 front and rears with 35s so that is why I want more torque in the lower area. He will street it more than anything so I am going with a slightly higher gear so it will cruise at speed a little better. It is gonna have a c4 so a little more torque to get the rolling mass going will help. I want it to have power but not too much for him to break stuff all the time ;). Best case would be about 350 tq around 2500. It will have the same crossover x pipe dual exhaust that I have on my green one and the fuel injection will help also. I have been out of engine tinkering for a while but heads and cam usually give the best gains for the money so I was wondering if anyone had suggestions.
I wish I had a good 351 to throw in it but it came with this 302 and a 289 that is stock. ( I think I will find a mustang for the 289:-*)
Chuck
 

DirtDonk

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Good plan. These 302's are plenty stout when built right. Certainly the 351 has the edge in stroke and overall displacement, but that's not to say a little 302 can't pull it's weight in Bronco.

From the March 2015 archive area here...

"When choosing your cam Wyflyer, get one of the series with the 114° lobe separation specs.

I just bought the Comp CL35-512-8 cam and lifter kit, which is in the XE258HR series.
It's the slightly de-tuned version of the 35-308-8 (I think that's the number?) that a bunch of the NorCalBroncos guys are using and raving about for the past few years.
If you want even more power overall, that would likely be the one to go with. I'm sure I'll be quite happy with the lower lift and slightly lower duration of my choice though.

Good luck. It's almost as hard as choosing a paint color!
And expensive when buying them all together too! I miss the days of the old "89.95 cam kit...:(

Paul"

I'll verify that 35-308-8 number in a bit just in case I had it wrong back then.
There may have been slight running changes to the Comp Cams lineup, but I think the part number is still valid. Several members using them and singing the praises.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Ford Racing has some good stuff, but don't be fooled into using the E303 cam. It's got good numbers but is almost universally accepted as a bummer of a cam for an EB.
There are a few here using them and not complaining, but most of the people who've reported on them actually hate them. Not just dislike, but really, really dislike them.

The B303 would be a better choice, but I don't remember if the specs are better or worse than the Comp mentioned above.

Paul
 

73azbronco

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Basically stay in the 250- 265 cam region with good off idle and you should be fine.
 
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