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302 to 351 swap

lonm

New Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2010
Messages
2
Are there any issues to deal with during a 302 to 351 swap like water hose on wrong side or do i have the wrong engine it came out of a pickup

any help will be greatly appreciated

Thanks
LONM
 

Doyle

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 12, 2006
Messages
1,026
Welcome to CB and the addiction of Early Broncos. You can use a 302 pump on a 351W, puts the hoses in the stock location. When I did my swap I used the whole front dress off the 302 including the timing cover and fuel pump. Only requires a couple of small adapters which are easily made or that most vendors stock. While the engine is out trim 1/2" off the gas pedal assembly mounting bolts, gives you a little more room behind drivers head. Also be sure you have the Correct oil pan and pickup, or the front axle will clearance it for you.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
37,066
Not knowing your knoweledge level I may be a little remedial here, but...

Ford made 3 different 351s. Generally refered to with a letter W,C or M. W is Windsor, C is Cleveland, M is Modified or sometimes Milford. The W is the easiest to put in. it is just a big boy 302. Many parts interchange (flywheel, timing cover, valve covers, exhaust ports, and more). A few do not (intake, oil pan, distributer and a few more).
The C is a different family. Different head design.
The M replaced the C and was Fords attempt to make a smaller big block. It shares some of the C parts up front, has a big block bellhousing in back.

The W is the easiest fit, any of them will do. They also had the longest production run ('69 to '97). The early car pans were front sump, they would need to be changed out for later (or aftermarket) rear sump. I ran a 2WD 80's F150 pan for a decade and it just got a little clearance dent for the front diff for it to work. That was a '70 block.

As for the years. There were a few differences. First few years were a short deck. This is not that common and rebuild parts generally result in funy issues with pistons too tall. Correct rebuild kits are more limited. Then in '83 they went to a 1-piece rear main seal (less leaking). Last signifient change is the last 3 years the blocks were roller cam compatable (and generally filled with roller cams), These are often refered to as F4 blocks based on the first 2 letters of the casting code. Any will work, generally the newer the more prefered. Stock or mild build they are all good engines. Max performance there are a few debates on some that are slightly better then others, but you need to be in the 700+ HP game to even bother with those debates.

Now that may have cleared up a few things, and probably muddied a few others.
 
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