393 Stroker what should I use?

[Broncofarm]

I just found out my '92 351 block got water logged when I moved my Bronco and it was left outside.

So a rebuild is in order and I figured I would do a 393 stroker while I'm at it. I still have awhile before the Bronco is ready. I'm working on the 3 link front, body extention, axles transfercases etc. It will mostly be used for offroad rock crawling and general trail running with just a little street time.

I would like to go with new heads but I'm not sure what to use. I'm thinking some cast iron heads would fit the bill because I'd like to stay under $1000 for both heads. I've looked at some different ones but I'm not sure what numbers I should be looking for? Same goes for the cam what numbers should I be looking for in a cam?

Second I am planning on using the edelbrock performer efi intake but for a 393 what size throttle body, injectors and MAF should I use?

I have searched and looked and a bunch of different peoples setups but I'm still not sure what would be the best setup for me.

 

[Ethansdad73]

ill be watching this tread... i want a 393 as well w/ efi. i was think of the RPM manifold and cam and heads. ( cam may be questionable)

 

[justinoshea]

I would get aftermarket heads instead of putting money into stock heads, aluminum castings can be had for less than 1000. TFS, AFR,edelbrock. I would get the 'street' or small/medium runner volumes. get a cam with big lift and medium duration that has a similar rpm range as the heads and intake. A 70mm TB should be enough for even 6000+ rpm. 80mm MAF and probaly 24lb injectors. should net a motor that will make good power from 2200-5500rpm, maybe 375hp after all the acc. are driven. don't forget roller lifters, rockers, pushrods, and a complete fuel system. the EEC-IV should handle things fine as long as the cam duration is reasonable and the motor has vacuum at idle.

 

[NYLES]

I would get aftermarket heads instead of putting money into stock heads, aluminum castings can be had for less than 1000. TFS, AFR,edelbrock. I would get the 'street' or small/medium runner volumes. get a cam with big lift and medium duration that has a similar rpm range as the heads and intake. A 70mm TB should be enough for even 6000+ rpm. 80mm MAF and probaly 24lb injectors. should net a motor that will make good power from 2200-5500rpm, maybe 375hp after all the acc. are driven. don't forget roller lifters, rockers, pushrods, and a complete fuel system. the EEC-IV should handle things fine as long as the cam duration is reasonable and the motor has vacuum at idle.

EVERYthing he said but bigger badder and meaner! Bolt on top notch AFR's $1400......only $400 more than your $1000 but youll never regret doing it!

but i like carbs!

 

[JWMcCrary]

I would agree on the aluminum heads and I'm partial to Comp cams Extreme 4X4 camshafts and valve train components. AND....go ahead and order new drive shaft joints and a heavy duty output shaft for that D20...you'll need it. That 393 will take the slack out of the drive train quickly.

 

[Broncofarm]

I'm set for the drive train. I have D-60's front and rear with a 203/205 doubler and a C-6. I am a little worried about the HP D-60 in the rear with the gears working on the coast side but we will see what happens.

 

[Broncobowsher]

No point in iron heads these days. Anything that flows decent is aluminium

Trick flows work good, that is what I run. I would not be afraid of AFRs either. For that many cubes I would do the 185s. Slightly less cam then what is ideal for a little better drivability.

What are your induction plans?

 

[greasypigeon]

I would go with a set of aftermarket heads. They would coast a little for then having your cast iron heads rebuilt to meet the demands of a 393. I have a set of trick flow twisted wedge heads and they are worth there weight in gold. You can go up to 190 on the trick flow, and a nice mild cam would put out some good numbers. For intake you can beat the weiand stealth intake. But if you are have a heavy foot and you stay high in the rpm I would also invest some money into getting the mains tied in.

 

[Madgyver]

CHI heads would be my choice.. But for half the price you could do it with Aussie steel heads..

;D

 

[Broncofarm]

I was thinking of an after market iron head like: (around $999 for a pair of assembled heads.)

Ford SVO N351 Sportsman Iron Head, Complete
-Port Volume: Intake 195cc, Exhaust 78cc
-Hardened steel exhaust seats.
-3 angle valve job.
-Intake and exhaust valves have been moved .070" to unshroud the intake valve.
-Valve angle changed from 22 degrees to 10 degrees to further improve airflow.
-Fast burn 64 cc combustion chamber.
-2.02" intake, 1.60" exhaust valves.

A cam like :

COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 4x4 Cam and Lifter Kits
Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,200-5,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 210
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 218
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 210 int./218 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 254
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 262
Advertised Duration: 254 int./262 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 111

The the Edelbrock Performer EFI intake with 70 mm throttle body a 75mm MAF and 24# injectors

Are the aluminum heads that much better? Seems to me like they have about the same specs but I am surely not an engine guy so idk..

 

[NYLES]

My cam is a Xtreme Energy 262 (218/224 .493/.500).....but not 4x4....mines on 110 lobes seperation

well i went from GT40 "P"s to AFR 165's all I can say is ILL never spend the money to port polish and rebuild a set of stocker heads again. Granted my P's were great but AFR's much much better....and are 42#'s lighter!

look up AFR test @ fordmuscle.com 165 AFR outflow gt40 P's by 100 cfm at .500......trick flow wins but they do have raised ports and I think are in another class of heads than those tested.

 

[Broncobowsher]

I actually run a set of N heads on my 330" ranger engine. They are the smaller N352's, but the same general head. I also run a set of trickflows on the 351 in the Bronco. So I think I know what you are looking at.

Skip the N heads. The rocker arm selection is very limited. I think there are only 3 different rocker arms available. 4 if you count the shaft mounted ones. One source I don't think even exists anymore.

Also the exhaust header pattern is very special. You will not find any off the shelf headers that will work. You will need to build them.

What you think you are saving by getting a less expensive iron head will cost you more in the little stuff needed to make the heads work. The N-head is a great head. I just de-cammed a little and it is running great. Just let me finish putting all the parts back in the transmission and I want to go drive it some more. But it is not an inexpensive way to get cheap heads. Way too many special parts needed to make them work. This is one of those "if you ask then you are not ready to try it" situations.

 

[Broncofarm]

Ok thanks. I am trying to keep the motor as budget as possible but at the same time I don't want to have to redo anything later either. I'm looking for something with as much bang for the buck as I can get outta the 393. After I finish everything else I'll have a better idea of what I have to spend.

 

[Broncobowsher]

My N-head adventure;

Wanting to try something different (I don't generally follow the pack very well). Searched several heads for a 5.0 Ranger project I started putting together after my father lost the engine in his Ranger and gave me the truck. Wanting a stroker kit, 351 does not fit in a Ranger well (302 is tight). So I did a 3.25 stroker kit as I liked the engineering better then the 3.40.

I already had one premium fuel sucking V8 (the bronco) so I wanted this one to run on cheap 87 octane gas. So 9:1 compression was picked (final numbers came to 9.1:1). Then it was heads. I liked the small ports of the N352 heads, they meet my requirements for flow. I also wanted to try an aftermarket iron head. Special exhaust bolt pattern didn't bother me as I could not get headers that I liked. The only good ones I liked quit being made. So I order a set of heads through a circle track shop 1,000+ miles away. Get them set up for valve seals, normally they don't use them as the head is intended for circle track racing.

Get the heads and start test fitting everything. This is where it gets fun. The chamber is a touch larger then the engine bore as part of the valve unshrouding. A standard headgasket exposed a little too much of the fire ring into the chamber. So a set of large bore Cometic head gaskets were ordered in order to work. The 10° valve angle lined up with the valve reliefs just fine but it is not relevent as with one 10° of valve angle and flat pistons there is no need for reliefs. They do make a perfectly flat top piston just for this head as it will work. '86 HO pistons will work just fine even with a big cam.
The next big challenge was the pushrods. The rocker arms need .150" offset on the intakes as the intake runners are extra straight and the pushrod hole was offset to clear the straightened runner. My issue was on a 302 block the pushrods angle a little steeper and they still hit the heads. After getting ahold of the race shop that sold the heads, this is a common problem. So I had to port the pushrod hole to clear the pushrods. Apparently this is real common on the 302 and sometimes needed on the 351. Interesting surprise.
Of course no one could tell me what pushrods to use. So I had to roughly assamble them, use a tape measure to get an idea how long they need to be, order up a pushrod gauge, then play with the adjustable pushrod and the rocker arm to get the geometery right, then find a set of pushrods the correct length that would work with the guideplates. My case it took one of the standard length flat tappet 302 pushrod lengths even though I was running a roller cam with a reduced base circle and extended length Ferrea valves.
One neat thing is a stock Explorer lower intake is a perfect match to the head ports as cast. But you need the thick intake gasket to make it work.
And no surprise that stock valve covers do not fit.

That is basicly what I went through with the N-heads to get them to work. It is now a great running engine, especially after going with a little less duration and a little more lift on the cam. I am not even close to what the head builder listed as max lift. Only doing about .550 lift and the heads (as built for me) can do .696"



The trickflows bolted on, they also used a special length pushrod, but they could tell me what it would be. Normal rocker arms and the intake and exhaust just bolted right up. I am using ported K-code manifolds on the trickflows for exhaust. Off the shelf normal roller rockers and stock valve covers. Really no special work needed to bolt on a set of common aftermarket heads

The N-heads were a fun challenge. The trickflows were a simple bolt on.

Any of the aftermarket heads will blow away a stock head. They will make better power with less cam, with less cam it idles better and has better low speed performance.

 

[bronco italiano]

If your going to do the motor "right" you shoul dhvae the aluminum heads. Comp cams all the way for valvetrain. BI

 

[greasypigeon]

Also trick flow makes a nice cam. I have one in my stroker and it is very nice.

 

[fordguy]

dont fall for the bling of the alum heads (yes they will save you weight and that would be very important if you were looking at trying to cut your drag times e.t.). Look at the flow and torque curves. world product (rousch) makes some really nice steel heads, but i have not looked at the numbers lately. they used to be about 800 bucks but have gone up since then. i really like the chi and afr but neither is not a low budget head. and i would not go with the new cheap alum heads, too many other name brands that have been proven. i have a 351 marine block i am going to build as a 393 so i follow all these heads.

 

[Broncofarm]

I tend to agree I'm not too concerned with weight and the iron heads do seem to have better bang for the buck not considering weight. I was just looking at the World Heads:

WRL-053030-1 - Windsor Jr., Iron, 180cc Head, 58cc, 1.94"/1.60" Valves, 1.250" Single Valve Springs (.560"), 7* locks, 3/8" rocker studs, no smog provisions, and not machined for o-rings, 1/2" bolt holes. $940.

WRL-053030-2 - Windsor Jr., Iron, 180cc Head, 58cc, 1.94"/1.60" Valves, 1.437" Dual Valve Springs (.600"), 7* locks, 3/8" rocker studs, no smog provisions, and not machined for o-rings, 1/2" bolt holes. $1,020.

WRL-053040-1 - Windsor Sr., Iron, 200cc Head, 64cc, 2.02"/1.60" Valves, 1.250" Single Valve Springs (.560"), 7* locks, 3/8" rocker studs, no smog provisions, and not machined for o-rings, 1/2" bolt holes. $940.

WRL-053040-2 - Windsor Sr., Iron, 200cc Head, 64cc, 2.02"/1.60" Valves, 1.437" Dual Valve Springs (.600"), 7* locks, 3/8" rocker studs, no smog provisions, and not machined for o-rings, 1/2" bolt holes. $1,040.


and the Roush 200:

64 CC combustion chambers and 200 CC intake parts.
Includes Manley stainless steel valves.
1.437 dual springs.
7° Manley retainers and keepers.
Screw in studs and guide plates.
2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves.
$899

 

[greasypigeon]

Also look into some aussia heads?

 

[fordguy]

aussie as in cleveland or aftermarket aussie windsors. i think the professional products are aussie and those are the ones i am just not sure about. the chi heads are cleveland style. if you are talking cleveland on windsor that is expensive because of the intake needed to run the cleveland style heads. great heads but he is wanting budget heads. the world products also have all the factory holes.