3G vs. 4G alternator upgrade

[chrlsful]

2G I believe...? Not 4 me.

3G = the nxt change in the late 90s or '00s?
That's going to B used here ('07). I may use the WH's 'loom' (the 2 red cables'n a 175 mega), flee bay alt clips (2), 65$ alt, and a Painless diode for back feed prevention. Kevin will get my dash cluster for alota work so will put in the volt (vs the amp) meter, keep the 'idiot lght', etc~

 

[Broncobowsher]

2G I believe...?

3G = the nxt change in the late 90s or '00s?
I may use the WH's (the 2 red cables'n a 175 mega), flee bay alt clips (2), 65$ alt, and a Painless diode for back feed prevention. Kevin will get my dash cluster for alota work so will put in the volt (v amp) meter, keep the 'idiot lght', etc~

No, you don't want anything to do with the 2G. The output post was a spade connector and were well known for setting the connection on fire. 2G is a late 80s bad idea.

 

[Steve83]

...cleaning up the wiring around the starter solenoid and form vs function. Is there any reason not to run the wiring through the outer fender...

If it needs cleaning, wash it. Don't worry about form beyond what's necessary to ensure function. Running a wire directly connected to the B+ through a grounded sheet metal panel is very risky if not done properly. I certainly wouldn't do it 2x for no benefit.

 

[hossbronco]

If it needs cleaning, wash it. Don't worry about form beyond what's necessary to ensure function. Running a wire directly connected to the B+ through a grounded sheet metal panel is very risky if not done properly. I certainly wouldn't do it 2x for no benefit.

How is running wire inside the outer fender any worse than running it along the inner fender apron, other than protecting it from the elements? Why do you consider that risky?

 

[toddz69]

How is running wire inside the outer fender any worse than running it along the inner fender apron, other than protecting it from the elements? Why do you consider that risky?

Probably because of the danger of the insulation wearing on the hot positive wire and shorting out to the body. I'm guessing that's what Steve83's comment was about.

Todd Z.

 

[hossbronco]

Oh, got it. Yeah, I wouldn’t be running that wire through there.

 

[DirtDonk]

You still can though. I agree I think Steve is thinking "why" because it can still be clean and tidy inside the compartment, and he did say "correctly" or "properly" when talking about protecting the wires as they pass through anything, especially metal things. You must do your diligence in protecting ANY and ALL wires from rubbing, chafing and scraping on each other, other car parts, and especially sharp edged metal bits.
He's a stickler for correct, and it's a lot harder to do correctly this way, but it's still possible to do.

Battery cables and starter relays and other junction blocks can remain in the engine compartment and still look clean or mostly out of sight, like a professional that cared about such things did the wiring.
It could be a fun project just to figure it all out.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

A link to another discussion with one member going all-in and putting not only wiring, but several key components under the front fender as well:

Sniper Ignition Box Location Ideas

Starting the second leg of my Sniper install on the 351, any thoughts/recommendations/pictures on the ignition box location? I'm really attempting to clean up the engine compartment, just looking for idea's other than my own! Thanks in advance! BP

classicbroncos.com

Discussion was about where to put the Sniper computer that was clean. This is that idea taken to the limit. Harder to access, but from the sound of it they've got that factored.

Paul

 

[chrlsful]

I like a clean engine bay. Its eye pleasing. Am far from knowledgable tho. It seems to achieve this (few wires running around) one needs
good automotive electrics knowledge (+ planning) AND miles of extra wire? (to hide). Is this last assumption correct?

Y would Keith (OP) want to use 4G rather than 3G?

 

[DirtDonk]

Probably just came up in conversation and a force seemed newer and may be better than a three. But in reality we have no choice. If you use the explorer front drive assembly you have to use a 4G for an explorer. If you are using your original bracketry then you have to use a 3G because that’s the only common one that has standard mounting available.

 

[chrlsful]

Thanks Paul,
yeah, I see that (to me) weird mounting style.
gen 1, 2, 3 is the way to go on my '69 250/4.1

 

[Broncobowsher]

Thanks Paul,
yeah, I see that (to me) weird mounting style.
gen 1, 2, 3 is the way to go on my '69 250/4.1

Gen 1 or Gen 3. Just say no to Gen 2. Gen 2 is a bad design, high amp through that spade connector is not a good idea.

 

[Steve83]

...no choice. If you use the explorer front drive assembly you have to use a 4G for an explorer.

I'm not familiar with the Explorer FEAD layout, but I think the 3G is available in the same mounting configurations as the 4G, and so could be swapped. Got any pics showing why the 4G has to stay?

 

[DirtDonk]

You might be right, but the only ones I’ve seen so far actually have the wrong bolt pattern. Same side mounting, wrong spacing.

No reason wiring-wise they can’t be swapped. Just the wrong footprint.
If I am remembering correctly that is.

 

[Broncobowsher]

The 4G is shorter. Need the shorter with the Explorer front drive for valve cover clearance. I did one with aftermarket valve covers and had to but a touch of clearance into the valve cover just to fit the 4G. The added length of the 3G says you are not going to clear the valve cover. Thus the 4G made shorter specifically for clearance.

 

[chrlsful]

yeah, no explorer dress knowledge but 3G can go drivers or pass's side. Still
lookin at the diode placement for the 'idiot lght'/brake lght and volt meter exchange...