Basically just a thin grommet that semi loosely slides over the shaftDoes that style take an or-ring like the stock unit?
Same here. Every swap I have (well 2 of them) were using stock dipstick and tube. I did have to remake the tab when I did it to a 351.I used the original, no problems.
Old lokar style had O-ring. New style has that cheap AF sleeve that sucks, especially for the priceBasically just a thin grommet that semi loosely slides over the shaft
The old lokars had machined grooves in the dipstick for 2 O-ring's. To save money, and maximize profit, some idiot came up with that sleeve garbage.I'm confused by the pictures showing the threaded plastic bushing and the replies of using an oring. I don't see a place for the oring. Are you guys suggesting that he just puts the oring on the end of the tube so that it gets pushed into the transmission by the threaded end of the busing?
x2 on the Hughes unit, I used #5335 with the rubber sleeve, no leaks since I installed it.I used a hughes locking dipstick from summit racing. Even so, it uses a rubber o-ring or bushing (from memory)
You mentioning the 351 needed a new mount saved my butt. I had a dipstick leak on my Explorer efi and explorer 4r70w I bolted on a 351 block.Same here. Every swap I have (well 2 of them) were using stock dipstick and tube. I did have to remake the tab when I did it to a 351.
Stock doesn't leak
I made a tab off the bellhousing bolt. That way the tube would work with any deck height block and could be left in place if I ever needed to pull the heads with the engine in the truck.You mentioning the 351 needed a new mount saved my butt. I had a dipstick leak on my Explorer efi and explorer 4r70w I bolted on a 351 block.
I got to thinking about the 351 being a taller block and unbolted the explorer dipstick from the head and it allowed the stock explorer dipstick to drop about 1" and seat properly in the trans.
Leak fixed.






