4R70W install question

[Jaybr]

I have a 4r70w out of a 97 Mountaineer that was rebuilt by Lick Creek, with new torque convertor. Installing on a BP306 with new 164t 50oz flex plate. I checked the torque convertor to engine fit before installing flex plate. With the flex plate on, the studs on the torque convertor don't line up perfectly, maybe 1/32-1/16 off so cant get it in by hand. I checked the offset on the convertor to make sure it was seated and had 1/2" to top of studs, so ~1" to face, fairly certain it's fully seated.

I got the trans mated to motor this morning, studs lined up and pulled through when I slowly tightened bellhousing to motor. The thing I'm concerned about is there is no play in the torque convertor once it's mated. I'm pretty sure that is because the studs are so tight in the holes, but second guessing myself.

Should I pull it all apart and maybe drill the flex plate holes a little bigger, or let it ride as is?

 

[Broncobowsher]

There are 2 different 164 tooth 50oz-in flexplates. One for the AOD/4R70W/C4. The other for E4OD/C6.
The C6 version has too much offset and bottoms out the convertor.

There are issues here. Don't just bolt it together and try running it, that will be asking for issues.
Pull the trans back out. Pull the flexplate off the engine. Figure out what is going on.

 

[bigmuddy]

I agree as well. You run the risk of either hurting the tranny pump or a bearing on the crank.

 

[Jaybr]

Pretty sure the issue is that either the hole pattern on the flex plate is a little off, or the studs on the torque converter are. I’m going to pull it and do some more measuring and double check everything

See how the studs are t centered in the hole?

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[Jaybr]

Pulled it back apart and torque converter stayed in motor being held by the studs. Using dial caliber measured everything and I have 3mm gap between converter and flex plate.

Holes were 7/16, started by drilling to 15/32 and the were still binding. Went to 1/2” and it slid right together and all is right again in my world (unless you tell me I shouldn’t have opened up the holes)


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[Broncobowsher]

What I remember about the convertor studs is they are a little special. There is a little shoulder on them right at the base. When they are indexed correctly into the flexplate they drop very cleanly into the holes. All of the engines power is transmitted through those 4 studs. I'm really not thrilled about opening up the holes in the flexplate. Since you are dealing with a custom convertor, I would have a real good talk with the convertor builder about the issues going on here. Too many good parts at risk.

 

[Jaybr]

What I remember about the convertor studs is they are a little special. There is a little shoulder on them right at the base. When they are indexed correctly into the flexplate they drop very cleanly into the holes. All of the engines power is transmitted through those 4 studs. I'm really not thrilled about opening up the holes in the flexplate. Since you are dealing with a custom convertor, I would have a real good talk with the convertor builder about the issues going on here. Too many good parts at risk.

I didn't have the converter rebuilt and I have no idea if it's new or rebuilt. Had the transmission rebuilt and that is the convertor I got back with it.

I talked to a buddy today that has a custom 4x4 shop, he said this happens all the time and I did the right thing. In fact he said he just had to dremel out one hole on a truck he just built for his daughter. IDK, but I've seen some of the stuff they build and race and I trust him.

Thanks all for the assistance!

 

[66broncoCT]

If you pulled the transmission off with the converter still on the flex plate you might want to replace the front seal before you put it back together. Too easy to damage it sliding the transmission off the converter snout. Just passing on a bit of “been there done that”. Did that the first time I installed an E4OD laying in the dirt when I was 15.