• Just a reminder that you won't be able to start new posts or reply to existings posts in the Archive forum.

    This is where all the old posts go so they can still be used for reference and searched.
  • Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

'72 crawler build

CW72

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
143
Going to just start a build thread right out of the gate, I'm going to try and keep everything all in one place. We will just consider this first post to be my introduction. Mornin' everybody.

I just picked up my first early bronco (well second actually if you count the buggy I parted out last year) and I'm excited to learn all about it and make it my own. I am a long time member of FSB, I have a 95 that I'm in the process of parting out to make funds available for the new one. I bought that truck when I was 16 and turned it from just about stock to on tons and 42's. It's been hard giving it up but I have always always wanted an early, so when I came across this one it had to be mine.

This is a list of what's in it courtesy of the previous owner. I know I know, bought not built, but give me some time, I have a few fun ideas brewing.

This is a breakout of details on what I have done with the Bronco.

• 1990 Ford Mustang 5.0 fuel injected MAF engine: the engine and fuel injection are from a stock 1990 5.0 liter mustang. I used the stock Ford mustang shorty headers where I had the exhaust fabricated. The power steering pump is a "canned ham" saginaw style ford. The serpentine system was retained. The power steering pump bracket is a Wild Horses serpentine, 5.0, saginaw specialty bracket. The alternator is the new 3G style for any late model Ford, it is at least a 90 amp alternator.
• D60 high pinion Ford front axle with ARB and 4.56 gears. This is a 1978/79 Ford F250 snowplow edition front axle.
• Corporate 14 rear axle with 4.56 gears and Detroit locker. This is a Chevy axle (single rear wheel application), probably from the late 70's or early 80's. It has a Chevy disc brake conversion. The discs are from a late 80's chevy 2500.
• Wheelbase extended front and rear, a total of 10”. I moved the front axle forward and the rear to the rear. This necessitated modifying the gas tank and the filler neck. The base tank is the BC Broncos 23 gallon unit. I changed the sump and baffled the pickup and location for constant fuel supply even in very off camber situations.
• Extended radius arms. These are a forged stock arm mated with an arm designed for the later model TTB front ends. The key in making these is the forged piece has to be heated with a torch to a particular temperature for the weld to penetrate. This was done for me by a fab shop - I watched.
• Custom front coil buckets, front, and rear shock hoops. I took stock coil buckets and raised them 2" on the frame when I relocated them for moving the front axle forward. I also braced them and tied the shock hoop into them.
• Approximately 3” of suspension lift, BC Broncos front coil springs. This lift is accomplished by using 5.5" lift coils, in the coil buckets relocated 2" higher. I did this to get the extra extension/droop of the longer coil without the higher ride height.
• Bilstein 7100 remote reservoir shocks. I purchased these and then did custom valving on them directly with Bilstein.
• C-4 Tranny, shift kit. I had the transmission rebuilt about 3,000 miles ago.
• D20 transfer case. Stock.
• 4 wheel disc brakes, stainless lines.
• Hydroboost assisted brakes. This has a mid-80's chevy 3500 diesel hydroboost.
• AC converted to on board air with tank. The tank is a small tank mounted under the vehicle, beneath the driver. The stock mustang ac compressor uses an air compressor filter then exits the compressor and goes to a pressure gauge and a regulator. All of this is switched and both electronically and mechanically controlled, with a blowoff valve. The onboard air is for the ARB locker in the front and airing up tires after technical wheeling.
• Saginaw power steering pump
• Toyota power steering box. I believe this is the box from a mid/late 80's toyota pickup truck. I braced, sleeved and plated the frame for it. This was installed when I extended the wheelbase. I remember having to fabricate a steering shaft to use the metric/Toyota piece on the bottom and the Ford portion on the top.
• Aftermarket fuel tank, raised and modified for extended wheelbase
• 6 point roll cage
• Pre-runner bumpers, front and rear
• Trailready beadlocks 17 x 9. These are true beadlocks with the spacer rings installed. I balanced all but one of them.
• 40” Goodyear MTR’s
• Off-road suspension seats. Based on their design, they are probably Beard seats. I made slider mounts for them.
• Front Floorboards replaced.
• Larger/longer rear wheel wells
• Herculiner
• Fiberglass hood
• Art Carr shifter. This is high end aftermarket shifter. Very solid.


And a few pics to boot, because who doesn't like pics?


 
Last edited:

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,842
Welcome aboard and Congrats
Looks like a great starting platform
 
OP
OP
C

CW72

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
143
thanks for the welcome guys. been a few days and been fixing a few things and learning the rig.

when i got it the fuel gauge wasnt reading, simple sending unit wires cut.

reverse lights arent coming on and im not sure why, i know at least one of the bulbs works so i dont think its a light issue. i checked to see if my art carr shifter had wires coming from it but i couldnt really under the center console. i then looked for the NSS/back up thing on the side of the c4 but couldnt find it, i think it was eliminated because the truck also has push button start.

rear pinion angle is off and i can feel the vibration at higher speeds. dont know if ill attempt to shim or cut and weld the perches on in the right place. shims are easier, so id like to give that a try first. if anyone can recommend a good place to get them post up.

finally, can someone direct me to info about c6 and a 203/205 doubler swap? im concerned about the length, i do have a rear stretch but even with it i think ill end up with a foot of driveshaft.
 
OP
OP
C

CW72

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
143
OP
OP
C

CW72

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
143
When I picked up the truck I was told there was no heat. I wanted to add that in so I got to looking around to see what was in there. I wanted to know if the fan was still in there and the heater core and hoses etc? Turns out it's all there, and I started tracing wires. Turns out the fuse was blown. Threw a new one in there and low and behold it slowly comes to life. It sounded like it was grinding something up at first and making awful noises but it eventually picked up speed. It's louder than hell and screeches and just makes a ton of noise. So I plan on pulling the motor and squirrel cage out and cleaning up the box, and doing the GM fan upgrade. While under the dash I noticed I'm missing the tubes from the box to the defroster, anyone know where to find those so I can replace them?

Also, mods, where'd my first post go?
 
OP
OP
C

CW72

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
143
Had a few mins to pull the fan out this morning, this is what I found.



The new Chevy fan is ordered from advance and I'll install it this weekend. I'll put up an updated part number for anyone curious. The other threads all have numbers from 06 or so.
 

Mountain Ram

Contributor
Recovering Masshole
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
3,387
Loc.
Abingdon, VA
Little more research, here's a good reference. He moved he rear axle back 8" and the front forward 4". I'll have to measure to see exactly how far mine went but he seemed to fit the c6/203/205 with a 14 bolt in pretty well. No complaints on driveshaft length.

Pirate4x4 build thread: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/689698-silver-bullet-early-bronco-build.html

Other website, but this has all the pictures in it. Same rig: http://mybuildgarage.com/2010/09/74-ford-bronco-build/#

Thats a pretty sweet build...

I pushed my rear back about 10" and I run a C6 and 231/241 doubler and my drivsehaft is pretty short with a good angle to it. I went with 1410 joints to get max angle at full flex.
 
OP
OP
C

CW72

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
143
Thats a pretty sweet build...

I pushed my rear back about 10" and I run a C6 and 231/241 doubler and my drivsehaft is pretty short with a good angle to it. I went with 1410 joints to get max angle at full flex.

Yeah it was done really well, I'd like to have fab talent like those guys do. What is the overall length on your setup? I don't doubt I'll have to go 1410 too, but nothing wrong with a bigger driveshaft. Just wish these things were a bit longer or doublers were shorter. I don't have atlas money.


Thanks for the links, I hadn't even thought of JBG. Used to buy things from them every so often when I had the fullsize.
 
OP
OP
C

CW72

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
143
Dayuuum.. that's some build up right there now

Yeah it pulled a whole bunch of insulation that was on the firewall into itself. Kind of strange. I'll be getting the new one in hopefully tomorrow. I need to order the new defrost tubes but I'm going to decide if I need a new heater core first. If I do I'll be ordering the tubes, reseal kit and heater core all in one go. Maybe the fresh air tube too, it has also been removed at some point. Not sure I need that though, with no real top I've got plenty of fresh air coming in from every angle.

very nice bronco!

I pulled the heater core and all that junk out of mine. who needs a heater when its 80 degrees in february?!?

Thank you!
Shoot that would be nice right now, I'm only in VA and the high is 20 tomorrow.
 

Mountain Ram

Contributor
Recovering Masshole
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
3,387
Loc.
Abingdon, VA
Yeah it was done really well, I'd like to have fab talent like those guys do. What is the overall length on your setup? I don't doubt I'll have to go 1410 too, but nothing wrong with a bigger driveshaft. Just wish these things were a bit longer or doublers were shorter. I don't have atlas money.

My crawler is 108" WB. I can measure doubler and rear driveline tomorrow. My doubler was in my full size Ram truggy and I really liked the 7.4:1 low range with 44s!

Yeah it pulled a whole bunch of insulation that was on the firewall into itself. Kind of strange.

Are you sure there's not a rats nest inside the heater box? Have you pulled it apart and cleaned the whole box?
 

Mountain Ram

Contributor
Recovering Masshole
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
3,387
Loc.
Abingdon, VA
Here is the problem with a doubler. This is max droop with 16" coil overs. That max's out the 1410s.



For comparison, at ride height- from the other side.

 

Mountain Ram

Contributor
Recovering Masshole
Joined
May 8, 2011
Messages
3,387
Loc.
Abingdon, VA
Doubler is about 28" from the mounting flange on the C6 adapter (stock 4x4) to the u-joint on the yoke. Rear driveshaft is about 27" at ride height. You won't have as much movement on the rear with leafs and with the lower ride height, your pinion will align better with the output of the t-cases.

I am running 44" tires with 4 link and 16" coil-overs front and rear. I have 5" up travel and I don't think I could get any lower. The cage is just over 7'
 
OP
OP
C

CW72

Jr. Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
143
My crawler is 108" WB. I can measure doubler and rear driveline tomorrow. My doubler was in my full size Ram truggy and I really liked the 7.4:1 low range with 44s!



Are you sure there's not a rats nest inside the heater box? Have you pulled it apart and cleaned the whole box?

I'll have to measure my WB too, probably around the same. The longer the better though for this situation..
I don't think so, it was definitely insulation. I opened the fan hole up and put the Chevy fan in. Blows pretty well, and it's kind of luke warm. Before anyone says, yes I know the "pull to heat" thing haha. And the heater core hose valve thing is stuck open so it's getting hot coolant into it. I might just leave it for now, but it needs to be pulled out and replaced, resealed etc and defrost tubes added. I'll buy all the parts now and get to it later.

Doubler is about 28" from the mounting flange on the C6 adapter (stock 4x4) to the u-joint on the yoke. Rear driveshaft is about 27" at ride height. You won't have as much movement on the rear with leafs and with the lower ride height, your pinion will align better with the output of the t-cases.

I am running 44" tires with 4 link and 16" coil-overs front and rear. I have 5" up travel and I don't think I could get any lower. The cage is just over 7'

Okay, I need to get out there with a tape and figure out what numbers I'm working with now. Not now though, it's going to be gross weather for the next couple days, I'm sure you're seeing this where you are too.
I'm going to have to drive down and get with you to make this swap happen ;)
 
Top