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74 Bronco All original stuff I need help with

Timmy390

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 1, 2011
Messages
5,663
Loc.
Conway, AR
ok in the last few days....

new battery
new cables
new alternator
new voltage regulator

all connections seem fine

still no charge from alternator.....

I would have to double check that altenator. Have you verified the connections on the back are correct and nothing is broken? You didn't over tighten the connections on the back?

Also, Seafoam is good to use to clean out a motor. I've used it on an old motor that has a sticking lifter and it fixed it right up.

Tim
 

Revelation

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
4,812
Silly question but did you remember to put the belt back on? Had many guys think their trans was toast when the t-case was in Neutral.
 
OP
OP
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74BroncoLV

New Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2012
Messages
40
Loc.
Las Vegas (NW Area)
i will pull the alt and have it checked...yes the belt is on....(i have been known LOL)

when I do that I will check the connections....

and seafoam it is!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,916
Before you go to the (slight) hassle of removing the alternator and having it tested, do the wire test first. It's easy, free (relatively speaking) and only takes a few minutes at the most.
Since you've already had the regulator on and off, the connector should be easy to remove for testing.

One thing that you can be fairly certain is good is your fusible link at the starter relay where the battery's positive cable attaches. They're a safety device and will blow under the right circumstances. However, if yours was blown, nothing would work at all.
Since everything else works, that should be fine.

So, the only things left that could effect the charging system are:

1. Alternator not grounded through the engine to the rest of the system.
2. Yellow wire not getting power.
3. Radio noise supressor attached to the Yellow wire shorted out to ground.
4. Orange "Field" wire not connected properly or broken.
5. Fusible link in the alternator's charge wire blown. It's hidden under tape near the first connector a foot or two from the alternator.
6. Green w/red wire not coming on with the key. Could be the wire, could be the switch.
7 New regulator not functioning (happens all the time).
8 New alternator not functioning (not as often, but still happens).
9. Artesians

Good luck. Grab that volt meter and go to town.

Paul
 
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OP
7

74BroncoLV

New Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2012
Messages
40
Loc.
Las Vegas (NW Area)
yes I have tested everyting with voltmete except the pigtail at the regulator....I will do that first then tempted to take it to the mechanic in the morning, kinda sick of being a failure.....:)
 
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OP
7

74BroncoLV

New Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2012
Messages
40
Loc.
Las Vegas (NW Area)
Paul thank you so so much for all your thorough ideas....I think if you want a free flight (and trip) to las vegas and come work on it for a weekend I would be happy to do so....honestly...hotel and airfare for trade? you could also use a car of ours

:)
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,916
Hah! That's a great offer!
Fun in the sun and Broncos too? Doesn't get any better than that.
Well, an air-conditioned garage might qualify as "better"...

Thanks

Paul
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Just to give you an idea of how things are hooked up...
 

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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,916
It might be indicative of other issues with the switch that could effect what's going on.
The Red w/green wire at the regulator comes directly from the ignition switch. If the switch is failing physically, it could be failing electrically as well.

Yes, it could just be that the key and cylinder are simply worn out. But it could also mean that you've got an electrical issue.

Why don't you go ahead and take a minute to check that Red w/green wire at the regulator to make sure it's got 12v when the key is in RUN.
Not in ACC, but since you can't get it into ACC anyway, that's moot.

And while you're at the picture taking point, why not a couple of engine compartment shots in the general area of the battery/alternator/regulator/firewall so we can maybe look for something obvious.

Hang in there.

Paul
 

patterdale

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
1,246
The knocking you refered to could have been carbon on the top of a piston if it has gone away like you said and the noise was from high up on the engine. It also could have been main or rod bearings that were not oiling right if it was low in the engine. If it was a ticking type noise it could be a lifter not pumping up. If the noise is gone now as you say it's no harm no foul enjoy your Bronco. The light thing can be fixed by replacing both switches. They are just 40 + year old stuff that gets loose and corrodes. I'm not enough of an electrical guru to talk you through the charging problem.
 
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