74 EB Sandrunner under development

[sstlaure]

Any new pictures from Labor Day weekend?

Nothing too good out of my camera, I was busy holding on in the back seat. I'll go through my video tomorrow (I'm working night shift for a couple of weeks)

There were tons of people there that got pics of us jumping, and I know that one guy in a grey/black EB (you know who you are if you're reading this) got some nice jumps on video. We were launching off of the last hill on the far RH side (it is ~30' tall there) with a nice slight downhill landing. Airborne ~8ft in the air, tapping the rev limiter w/3 people on-board.

 

[toddz69]

Where are you going to find "long high-speed runs" in Michigan?

Todd Z.

There aren't any :'( , but I'm building this so I can go blasting around Glamis in a couple of years.

In the truck my friend has, we've noticed that the remote reserviors on his Kings heat up. That's doing high-speed runs(60 mph) @ short bursts over 2ft+ whoops, and repeated jumping (about 10 times per lap around the dunes ;D ) If the cost difference between having the coil-overs valved w/a remote reservior or spring carrier only is only $50-100, I can just valve it super light for now and revalve in the future if I need it. That's a lot easier than trying to add the reserviors and mounts and everything later.

Yeah, that will definitely heat the fluid up a bit. I didn't scroll through all the posts, but you already have purchased bypass shocks for the front, right? A good friend of mine runs his EB regularly at Glamis and does very well with a single 2.5 King with dual rate coils on each front corner. No air bumps yet but they're coming. He doesn't have the tuneability of the bypass units but it does work very, very well.

Todd Z.

 

[sstlaure]

You can see our first King equipped truck in action at this thread. Tell your friend to get the airbumps. They are the best. The green truck is running coil-overs at all 4 corners, works sweet.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47784&page=6&pp=15

I'm going to see if King will allow me to exchange the bypasses for the front for a set of coil-overs. Sean's coil-overs seem to work fine (I'm sure the bypasses can work better than the coil-overs, but I don't think I need dual Kings on the front end of my ride.) I can save ~$1000 going this route....although bypasses & coil-overs look kewl all stacked up...

 

[toddz69]

You can see our first King equipped truck in action at this thread. Tell your friend to get the airbumps. They are the best. The green truck is running coil-overs at all 4 corners, works sweet.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47784&page=6&pp=15

I'm going to see if King will allow me to exchange the bypasses for the front for a set of coil-overs. Sean's coil-overs seem to work fine (I'm sure the bypasses can work better than the coil-overs, but I don't think I need dual Kings on the front end of my ride.) I can save ~$1000 going this route....although bypasses & coil-overs look kewl all stacked up...

Thanks. I remember seeing that video and pics when they were first posted. Your idea of a swap sounds like a smart thing to do. I think it's hard to justify the expense and hassle of mounting bypass shocks for all but a full-blown prerunner or race truck. I raced a truck last year with them on it and the clicking sound they make drives ya nuts after a few miles.

The biggest challenge we found on my friend's front end was finding a good place to mount the air bumps. Still working on that one.

Todd Z.

 

[sstlaure]

I'll still be running the bypasses in the rear (but thanks for the info on the clicking, I'm sure I would have been going nutz trying to figure out what the noise was...I've never heard that they make noise.)

Unfortunately I made my shock purchase a little too soon. Best laid plans and all...Hopefully Brett @ King will let me swap em...$1000 can purchase sway bars, Heimed radius arms, etc....

I'm also trying to find real estate for the airbumps. I may try to sink them into the framerail somehow and build a bumpstop pad/lower shock mount on the rad arm....Still going over the front suspension on paper, the rear is pretty well laid out.

You can somewhat make out where the airbumps are on the green truck, but he's got 4-link stuff going everywhere.

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=8064

 

[sstlaure]

King says they'll take the bypasses in exchange for store credit (or a set of coil-overs) for a nominal restocking fee of $25/shock. Looks like coil-overs in the front and bypasses in the rear. It'll be a lot easier to fit all that stuff in my wheelwells now without the EB style coil in the way

 

[toddz69]

King says they'll take the bypasses in exchange for store credit (or a set of coil-overs) for a nominal restocking fee of $25/shock. Looks like coil-overs in the front and bypasses in the rear. It'll be a lot easier to fit all that stuff in my wheelwells now without the EB style coil in the way

That sounds like a good deal to me. On the airbumps, we were thinking of mounting them through the frame too, but just haven't brought ourselves to do it yet.

Does your friend have a copy of his master's thesis that he'd sell or let go for some good reading? I'm only a BSME and I need to increase my education .

Todd Z.

 

[sstlaure]

That sounds like a good deal to me. On the airbumps, we were thinking of mounting them through the frame too, but just haven't brought ourselves to do it yet.

Does your friend have a copy of his master's thesis that he'd sell or let go for some good reading? I'm only a BSME and I need to increase my education .

Todd Z.

It was my thesis too (just his $$$$$), BSME, Master's Product Development. The focus of the thesis was in the decision making of how we chose the design direction we went with more than it was the actual design itself, as well as a business plan to market the suspension systems. Let me talk it over with Sean to see if he's OK with giving it out.

It think I'm going to mount the shocks directly on top of the radius arm, then the airbumps right in front of the shocks (create some kind of tube structure to hold the can slightly away from the frame and have a pad on the front portion of the c-bushing for the bumpstop to bottom on.)

I was going to run the shock on the radius arm (rwd of the axle), but it would interfere with where I'm going to run the sway bar (through the frame and under the transmission)

 

[toddz69]

It think I'm going to mount the shocks directly on top of the radius arm, then the airbumps right in front of the shocks (create some kind of tube structure to hold the can slightly away from the frame and have a pad on the front portion of the c-bushing for the bumpstop to bottom on.)

With the coilovers and the radius arms, you can do something like that. In fact, I've often thought of trying to use some of the brackets that Poly Performance sells for their TJ airbump kit to mount them on my truck. On my friend's truck, the lack of a stout radius arm (has 4 link arms now) kept us from mounting them that way.

Todd Z.

 

[sstlaure]

I'll probably heim the frame end of the radius arms to make sure they don't bind. It means more bracketry, but I think it'll be stronger (If anyone is looking for some 78/79 rad arm brackets, I'll be cutting these off in a few weeks, they're in real nice shape. They do a better job than the 66-77 drop rad arm brackets...super beefy)

 

[sstlaure]

Taillight pic for 72SportTX

Here is a close-up of the taillight cans welded together.

 

[sstlaure]

Anyone ever relocate their trac-bar a little rearward in vehicle. I want my suspension to go to full compression, but the Tie-rod hits the drop trac bar bracket. I think I'm going to move the trac-bar bracket back on the frame about an inch to clear the tie-rod, then make a custom trac-bar to clear the diff. Any thoughts? (I only need to get about (1) more inch of compression)

First 2 pics show the tie-rod/drop trac-bar bracket interference
Pic #3 shows clearance between trac-bar and diff

 

[toddz69]

Anyone ever relocate their trac-bar a little rearward in vehicle. I want my suspension to go to full compression, but the Tie-rod hits the drop trac bar bracket. I think I'm going to move the trac-bar bracket back on the frame about an inch to clear the tie-rod, then make a custom trac-bar to clear the diff. Any thoughts? (I only need to get about (1) more inch of compression)

First 2 pics show the tie-rod/drop trac-bar bracket interference
Pic #3 shows clearance between trac-bar and diff

I had the same problem and ended up ditching the drop trac bar mount and raising the axle end mount a few inches. Not the perfect solution, but it works a lot better than the frame drop mounts.

Todd Z.

 

[sstlaure]

Got any pics of that? I'll have to take a look at it tonight. (I put my coils back in last night so that we can take the truck over to my friends house to start the fab work on the suspension, so I can't cycle it to full compression right now.)

 

[El Jefe]

Got any pics of that? I'll have to take a look at it tonight. (I put my coils back in last night so that we can take the truck over to my friends house to start the fab work on the suspension, so I can't cycle it to full compression right now.)

I've done the same and have pics if you want them.

 

[sstlaure]

I've done the same and have pics if you want them.

Can you email them to me at work? (you know where I live %) )

 

[toddz69]

Got any pics of that? I'll have to take a look at it tonight. (I put my coils back in last night so that we can take the truck over to my friends house to start the fab work on the suspension, so I can't cycle it to full compression right now.)

My truck's off at the fab shop at the rest of the week so I don't have the ability to take any pics for a few days. Send me your email addy in a PM though. I think I have an email at home with some great pics and maybe even an engineering drawing of what Lars Pedersen did on his.

Todd Z.

 

[sstlaure]

Thanks for the help.

Only problem with an EB is finding room to package everything. I'm having a hell of a time figuring out a place for the rear sway bar that can accommodate 16 inches of travel. I've got the 23 gal tank that drops down quite a bit below the frame, and I want to keep it above the leaf springs. I'm thinking it will have to go in front of the axle above the frame (2" body lift), and I'll tie it in to the center mount upper link and cage tie-ins.

This is going to be a monster to paint :'(

 

[sstlaure]

Coil-overs are in, the pole barn is done... ;D Start fab very soon....It's killing me!

 

[watfab]

I had the same type problem with my sway bars and this is what I did. Maybe it might help.
http://www.broncoholics.com/support/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=437