'76 Driver door stuck

[vx8]

Hi, my 1976 Bronco has a stuck driver door. I've tried taking the interior panel off and manually pulling the wire to pop the latch, but it doesn't open. (I've tried on the passenger side, and I'm able to do it)

Any suggestions on how I can open a stuck door?

 

[Steve83]

Click this & read the captions:


(phone app link)

If you can unhook the operating rod to the pushbutton, the inside handle should work. Then you can make that modification so it never happens again. But adjusting the pushbutton rod will let it work as-designed, assuming the latch is otherwise functional (clean, lubed, undamaged).

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I would give the latch a good shot of WD40, and work the lock button up and down a few times. I would also try pushing in on the door handle while trying to open it.
Good luck

 

[DirtDonk]

Just out of curiosity, was it giving you any trouble leading up to this, or did it just happen suddenly out of the blue?
What about slamming? Is your door in need of some good hard slams to get it to shut normally? Just wondering if something finally got dislodged or deformed.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[Steve83]

WD40 contains paraffin wax, which can CAUSE problems in mechanisms like this.

 

[vx8]

Just out of curiosity, was it giving you any trouble leading up to this, or did it just happen suddenly out of the blue?
What about slamming? Is your door in need of some good hard slams to get it to shut normally? Just wondering if something finally got dislodged or deformed.

Good luck.

Paul

The door was misaligned when I first started working on it and I never closed it fully. I finally slammed it close, and now she's stuck shut

 

[DirtDonk]

I always latch mine half way as well. Just to avoid slamming them at least half the time.
Not that my '71 ever gave me any slamming issues when it was my daily driver. Not so much after that!

Paul

 

[vx8]

I'm at a loss for solutions on how to get it open, nothing will free the latch

Anything else?

 

[DirtDonk]

What else have you done besides pulling on the rod, which obviously does not work anyway because the paddle handle would do the job in that case.
If you follow the rod to the latch then move it by hand to see which way it pulls the arm when you manipulate it, you can feel where the levers try to interact with each other.
In theory, you should be able to push upward on that short stub of lever sticking out the side of the latch assembly and open the jaws.
You can see this lever in Steve's images. In the second pic (below the double pic) you can see the small lever just to the right of the drill bit. Push it away from the sliding bar and it should release. If it does not, something is really buggered and we may have to go to a Plan B if we can figure out what that is.
But try pushing the shorty lever, if you have not already. You should be able to see if if you can't feel it initially

On Broncos, I think the all-metal striker posts should not be an issue regarding a mis-matched size, like they can be on the ones with the plastic sleeves, but I suppose there is still a point at which they can become lodged together. But it sounds more like the latch is not releasing, rather than the gripper jaws too small for the striker.

Good luck. Keep trying. Let us know if you tried pushing that lever.
Oh, and the side that's not cooperating is unlocked, correct? If you don't have the buttons attached you will have to reach inside and unlock it manually by pushing up on the rod.

I know you may have done some of that already, but better to cover it twice than not at all.

Paul

 

[vx8]

Solved! Got it open, rolled the window up and sprayed the living hell out of the locking mechanism with PB blaster.

Thing is, the outdoor button doesn't work.

It 'half' opens the jaws. When you push the button the jaws will look like they are attempting to open, but they dont pop open like pulling the inside handle.

Anything to solve this?

 

[Slowleak]

Try adjusting the rod from the outside button to the latch mechanism. It’s adjustable where it attaches to the latch.

 

[DirtDonk]

That's a good place to start. But personally if I'd gotten locked in/out of a rig I'd be taking the whole latch mechanism out of the door so I could have a good look-see at it. I'd be looking for bent, misaligned, or missing/broken pieces.
During the process I'd give it a good soaking and clean up he gunk that even Gunk won't get out, then re-lube it but good.

And manipulate it over and over and over again and again until you're sure it's going to fully work every time. Then, and only then would I put it back in.
And even then, if there was any doubt as to it working (because it could just be old and worn out like anything else) I would buy a new one.
And even though I sell them, I feel that the originals are slightly better than the new replacements (the good ones, not the not-quite-as-good ones;D) so I always try to solve the issue with the original first. But if it's just plain worn out, I'd replace it without hesitation.

My '71 has both originals that have been serviced. The '68 has one new and one original because the original on one side just wasn't going to work out.

Paul

 

[vx8]

That's a good place to start. But personally if I'd gotten locked in/out of a rig I'd be taking the whole latch mechanism out of the door so I could have a good look-see at it. I'd be looking for bent, misaligned, or missing/broken pieces.
During the process I'd give it a good soaking and clean up he gunk that even Gunk won't get out, then re-lube it but good.

And manipulate it over and over and over again and again until you're sure it's going to fully work every time. Then, and only then would I put it back in.
And even then, if there was any doubt as to it working (because it could just be old and worn out like anything else) I would buy a new one.
And even though I sell them, I feel that the originals are slightly better than the new replacements (the good ones, not the not-quite-as-good ones;D) so I always try to solve the issue with the original first. But if it's just plain worn out, I'd replace it without hesitation.

My '71 has both originals that have been serviced. The '68 has one new and one original because the original on one side just wasn't going to work out.

Paul

I slammed the door and opened it many times just to make sure I wouldn't get locked inside lol, if anything I'd just have to crawl out the back gate

Thanks for the insight!

 

[mtp71174]

I have just finished my door mechs the rod from the outer door handle is adjustable the issue is the rods are too long with the new aftermarket handles from what I have learned is that they are 1964-65 mustangs parts that are sold as bronco parts ok if you have a 66 or 67 bronco. when you install them and then adjust them all the way up and the adjuster easly lines up cleanly and if you have to lift the rod up to go into latch arm there is your problem. You have run out threads and can not get what you need. the rod have rolled threads meaning the threads are larger than the rod because of the rolling process
You can and I did run a die and cut the threads a little longer this gives you the adjustment you need the threads are not robust as normal to overcome this I run a jam nut up and locked it tight to the adjuster mechanically this works due to how the rods work.
note if you see what you think is a flaw pm me and show me