76 power steering leak at return line

[Jeff76]

My 76 ps Box (stock box, stock pump) is leaking at the fitting where the return line mates to the box. I've tightened it to the point I'm concerned I'm going to round the fitting. I think it may be a bit cross threaded. I have replaced the pump and the hoses. The originals were leaking in the same place, so now I'm pretty sure it's the threading in the box. By the way, the power steering is fine and every thing works wonderfully. Very happy with it besides the now heavy leak.

My question, can I run a tap into this hole, or will the shavings cause problems? Since its the return Line, I'm hoping the answer is yes. If yes, anyone know the tap size? I think the pressure side thread is bigger than the return.

Thanks for any feedback...

Jeff

 

[Broncobowsher]

It isn't a pipe thread. That is the threads don't do the sealing, the flare on the end of the tube being compressed does the sealing. If you have replaced the hard line and it is still leaking at the box at that point, the machined surface for the inverted flare fitting on the box is probably damaged. I really don't have a good fix for that.

 

[broncodriver99]

Yep, as bowsher said the inverted flare does the sealing. The only thing I can suggest is that they make copper sealing washers for flared fittings. NAPA should have them. They are softer than the steel box and lines and may seal up whatever imperfection you have. Worth a shot. Have you made sure there is no trash or anything in the seat in the box that would prevent the flare from seating properly? It doesn't take much.

 

[Jeff76]

Good point, and no I haven't really tried to look and see if something is obstructing it. Seems like that is the most obvious thing, but it really did not cross my mind! Thanks, I'll check, and will also try the washer if necessary...

Jeff

 

[Jeff76]

Well, it's been over two years since I started this thread, and I am just getting back to solve the problem. Sad state of prioritizing my bronco I guess. Anyway, a few of you have private messaged me asking if I solved this yet. And no I haven't. Yet.

What I did last week was take the steering box out of the truck. Keep in mind that the whole stock power steering setup out of this 76 is working flawlessly aside fro the leak at the steering gear return side fitting.

After I cleaned it up, I was able to put it on a bench and examine the reverse flare (brass cone) inside the box and there is no obstruction but it does appear to be slightly jiggered or compressed a bit. It's hard to get a clear look inside the fitting.

I took the box around to the local smart people I know and got less positive suggestions than I hoped. Pretty much sealant or teflon tape around the threads were the suggestions. While I may try this, it seems unlikely to work as the compression between the flare and cone is the point of seal.

Anyway, a suggestion here for a possible washer got me searching on the web, and a mustang forum has a similar posted issue. The name of washers seem to be 'copper flare gaskets' and they should be found at HVAC supply stores. Another suggestion was to use a 'fiber-paper' washer or to make one from some rubberized paper stock. Finally, it was mentioned that some of the aftermarket flares are thicker than stock and it's possible to form a better seal by taking material off the end as it can bottom prior to the flare fitting making a solid connection.

So that's where I am. I'm going to look closely at these options and see if I can arrive at a single solution or combination of solutions that will solve this riddle.

I will post up what I learn.

Jeff

 

[broncodriver99]

You don't want to use ANY kind of sealant. As you mentioned it is the flare that makes the seal. Sealing the threads will only make it leak around the tube. Have you inspected the flared end of the hose? Flares are prone to cracking, especially when over-torqued. They also get thin after repeated assembly and disassembly.

NAPA should carry the copper flare gaskets. Probably in the brake fitting area. I believe the brass sets in the box are replaceable, but you will probably have to get them from one of the steering box shops.

 

[Jeff76]

You don't want to use ANY kind of sealant. As you mentioned it is the flare that makes the seal. Sealing the threads will only make it leak around the tube. Have you inspected the flared end of the hose? Flares are prone to cracking, especially when over-torqued. They also get thin after repeated assembly and disassembly.

NAPA should carry the copper flare gaskets. Probably in the brake fitting area. I believe the brass sets in the box are replaceable, but you will probably have to get them from one of the steering box shops.

Yep, I agree about the sealant. The hose is new and looks good. I went to NAPA today to discuss, but they had no idea about flare gaskets. Of course they are only as good as the guy I'm talking to at the counter.

I found this online:

https://www.johnstonesupply.com/sto...ryId=&keyWords=Copper+flare+gasket&sub=search

Just not sure what size to order. Would be ideal to find a local shop that carries them so I can try them out. I'm looking into that now.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[broncodriver99]

What size is the metal tubing? The gaskets correspond to the tubing size.

 

[jckkys]

I've had great luck with local hydraulic hose suppliers. They deal with these issues on endless industrial applications daily. Since you have the steering gear out of the truck you can take it and the hoses to have them diagnose the problem. They have all the fittings and can make the hoses if replacement is indicated.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Use a 5/16" tap to thread the inside of the cone a couple turns. Grease the tap up to catch the brass bits. You don't need to go very deep. Then use a 5/16" bolt and some washers to pull the cone out. Put the cone on a lathe or even a drill and dress it back up with a fine file while spinning it. Try to keep the 45 degree angle and remove material evenly until it's nice and uniform. Use a punch to press it back in.

If you have to do the pressure side there is a tiny spring and valve under the cone. If you run the tap too far in it can damage the valve. The spring and valve is a pain to get back in sometimes, use grease.

 

[tirewater]

Sooo, which hose is leaking? Is it the one below the high pressure hose on the pump?

I may have the same issue.

 

[Jeff76]

Use a 5/16" tap to thread the inside of the cone a couple turns. Grease the tap up to catch the brass bits. You don't need to go very deep. Then use a 5/16" bolt and some washers to pull the cone out. Put the cone on a lathe or even a drill and dress it back up with a fine file while spinning it. Try to keep the 45 degree angle and remove material evenly until it's nice and uniform. Use a punch to press it back in.

If you have to do the pressure side there is a tiny spring and valve under the cone. If you run the tap too far in it can damage the valve. The spring and valve is a pain to get back in sometimes, use grease.

Wow. You never cease to amaze me with the quality of your responses. Thanks.

So just to confirm: is the brass cone originally just a press fit into the steering gear?

Jeff

 

[Jeff76]

Sooo, which hose is leaking? Is it the one below the high pressure hose on the pump?

I may have the same issue.

My particular issue is on the steering gear side fitting of the low pressure hose.

I will post up pictures as soon as I figure out how to become a contributor again. I've been off the grid for a while and let it lapse.

Jeff

 

[Viperwolf1]

Wow. You never cease to amaze me with the quality of your responses. Thanks.

So just to confirm: is the brass cone originally just a press fit into the steering gear?

Jeff

Yes, it's just lightly pressed in.

 

[RedBank]

Use a 5/16" tap to thread the inside of the cone a couple turns. Grease the tap up to catch the brass bits. You don't need to go very deep. Then use a 5/16" bolt and some washers to pull the cone out. Put the cone on a lathe or even a drill and dress it back up with a fine file while spinning it. Try to keep the 45 degree angle and remove material evenly until it's nice and uniform. Use a punch to press it back in.

If you have to do the pressure side there is a tiny spring and valve under the cone. If you run the tap too far in it can damage the valve. The spring and valve is a pain to get back in sometimes, use grease.

Reviving this thread instead of starting a new one. I have this same issue.

When replacing the brass ferrule are there any tricks to pressing it back into the box?

Is the attached picture the brass item in question?

Can you usually see the brass needs repair before removing it from the box?

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[Viperwolf1]

Reviving this thread instead of starting a new one. I have this same issue.

When replacing the brass ferrule are there any tricks to pressing it back into the box?

Is the attached picture the brass item in question?

Can you usually see the brass needs repair before removing it from the box?

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

That's it. No tricks. Just make sure you get the spring and check valve in place in the input port. Gently tap the ferrule in.