9" sealed axle bearings install

[Drtj]

This is my first post. I started the rebuild on my "71" (which I purchased in "75) a little over a year ago. I would like to thank all posters at CB for the great info, it has allowed me to replace 90% of my sheet metal and redo upholstery, guages, sheet metal, all of it! I took pics of my large bearing axles before disassembly but got the wrong angle, searched for info online and got results varying by vehicle and bearing type. I just put in an Eaton true Trac 3rd member. I pressed on the axle bearings and retainers and thought I had the correct measurements from my old set up (measured from inside the retainer to where the axle material changed), but this left 1/4- 3/8" of axle exposed at the outer end, also the origional driver side retainer was different from the passenger side. Should I press the bearing and retainer all the way out to the stop at the end of the axle or leave a gap at the end? Sorry to enter the forum with such a lame question but I need to set this properly. I can provide pics if needed, that is if I can figure out how. Thanks.

 

[DirtDonk]

Unless something was mucked up on your setup to begin with, I'm pretty sure your bearings should slide all the way to the stopping points. Then the retainer ring holds it there.
Otherwise it could walk in and out under load, stopping at the flange on one end and the retainer on the other. Not a good situation.

Did it feel like it reached a stopping point on the press, before reaching that wide point? Or were you just going by matching the other side? They should actually match I'm pretty sure, unless someone changed an axle for the wrong one.
But since you've owned it since it was just four years old, that's not as likely to be the case I would not think.
Any chance the PO, or PO's before you did some monkey business?

Paul

 

[Justafordguy]

X2, I've never seen one that didn't get pressed all the way out to the stop.

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and pics might be good anyway. It's pretty straightforward most of the time, but every now and then something doesn't sound right, but shows up in the pics.

Thanks

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Hah! Beat you by that much!
But agree, me neither.

Paul

 

[Drtj]

I'm embarrassed because I watched a u tube video showing to take measurements before disassembly. Not knowing the variation on bearing position for roller bearing (video) and the sealed bearing. After the install it did seem more reasonable to press to the stop with my sealed bearing. The pics I took before removing the bearing did not show the bearing at an angle that showed if they were or were not pushed to the stop. The measurements I took did not help because the new retainers were different from the old ones. From the info you have given I will take the axle out and press them on to the stop and reinstall them. If I pressed them on all the way it would be difficult to pull them back out again, possibly having to cut them off, purchase new, and start over. So thank you for the fast reply!

 

[Drtj]

DirtDonk I purposely did not press the bearings to the stop, I left 1/4-3/8" of axle showing short of the stop based on inaccurate measurements (retainer size differences). The bearings and retainers are on far enough for some retention but might be a problem in the future if left this way. Also my axles would be improperly seated (too short) in the differential if left this way. Everybody's info to seat these to the stop has helped me a great deal. Thanks.

 

[sanndmann3]

Welcome to the forums by the way! Very helpful bunch of enthusiasts here. Some one is always ready to help.

 

[Justafordguy]

Hah! Beat you by that much!
But agree, me neither.

Paul

LOL, I guess I'm getting slow in my old age. ;D

 

[DirtDonk]

The other reason fro correct seating is so the brake drums will sit properly on the shoes and backing plates.
So it's both the brakes and the spline engagement that are effected.

Sounds like we have a consensus then. Good, 'cause that don't happen often around heah!

Paul