95 Mustang Engine Swap Qs

[sykanr0ng]

Follow up question - the Mustang pan is an odd looking thing with a front and rear sump. Can I use this pan in my Bronco? Should I take the existing stock 289 pan off?

Should I look for another used pan?

From all reports I have read the Explorer oil pan works well in the Bronco.

The 289 pan probably won't work, there were changes made to the rails on the 5.0L engines.

There are steel and cast aluminum oil pans, the aluminum have been reported to break if hit.
Some say the aluminum were early production and the steel were from later years.

 

[pcf_mark]

Can I just use the old 95 Mustang pan is what I am trying to get at.

 

[cw]

I used the stock 95 pan. Pain when changing oil but not too bad.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Can I just use the old 95 Mustang pan is what I am trying to get at.

Yes, hundreds of Broncos are running with Fox mustang pans. Works just fine. Just more work on the oil change. Fill will be the same as a Mustang, 5-quarts.

 

[pcf_mark]

Cool thanks! It is odd looking.

 

[pcf_mark]

I may have a problem with the Mustang pan and Mountainer timing cover. Of cource I just installed the timing cover last night from 2000 Mountainer for my serp set up. I was going to put the pan on tonight and put the engine in tomorrow.

However I do no think I have a hole for the dipstick! I thnk the Mustang hole is in the front cover and Mountaineer is in the pan. Have you guys simply drilled the hole into the front cover? Does this interfere with the serp or reluctor pickup for the ignition?

Also - the balancer I took off had three holes but the one I am putting on has 4 holes. The weight looks correct and in the right place relative to the key way. Are all roller 5.0 engines the same balancer?

 

[badmuttstang]

The mustang pan should have the dip stick in it. As for the 95 mustang power steering pump working its hit or miss some people have had no issues at all while others have. ARG offers a higher pressure pump if you decided to go that route. I'm using a 95 mustang front dress on my 351 but am going to be making a mount to use a saginaw pump because I am running 35" tires and plan on hooking up hydroboost as well.

 

[Broncobowsher]

'95 mustang (all 302/5.0 engines as of sometime in the mid 80s) has a dipstick hole in the BLOCK. Driver's side, just above the oil pan rail.

 

[pcf_mark]

AWESOME! Thanks for the dipstick info!

I am using all Mountaineer bits - p/s, alt, waterpump.

Any tips on the balancer?

 

[Broncobowsher]

AWESOME! Thanks for the dipstick info!

I am using all Mountaineer bits - p/s, alt, waterpump.

Any tips on the balancer?

Same source as the rest of the accessory drive bits. Its a bit unique with the belt pulley built into the damper, not a bolt on pulley.

 

[pcf_mark]

Back for what I hope is my last question. Engine is in and I am woring the EFI and solving the issues with p/s hoses and coolant hoses.

In the rear corner of my EFI manifold there was a hole that goes into the coolant jacket. I put a plug in it and while tightening it the manifold cracked. I actually heard it. Very slight hair line crack from the plug over the head. Is this going to leak? I hate to take it off now (injectors etc all wired in too!) but better now than later.

A few more hours...

 

[DirtDonk]

It might not of course, but I'd say it's a 99.8% chance of it.
Naturally if you don't fix it now, before doing all the rest of the work and tidying up everything, it's virtually guaranteed to leak after you button it all up.

I say fix it.
That might be as simple as pulling the plug and using some JB Weld / Epoxy of your choice product to seal it off. The proper way would be to weld it and re-thread the hole, but if it was mine, I'd at least try to fix it with a simple method that didn't involve removal.

Sorry to hear. Good luck and hope whatever your decision is, it's the right one. But unless you can verify that the crack is only a surface crack (can't imagine that scenario in this case, but I suppose it's theoretically possible) I'd stop the forward progress until it was addressed.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Not sure if anyone has dealt with that particular area before, but maybe you can get advice regarding tightening the plug just a little more to open up the crack, filling it the best you can with epoxy and then removing the plug to let it relax back into place, closing off the crack and squishing out any extra.

The danger as I see it is that you might just go too far and break the whole corner off, but seems like it could be done very carefully and be a success.

But again, wait for others that have dealt with this kind of thing more often. I know welding is usually the first order of business, but in a water jacket crack, I would think a good epoxy is a workable cure. No pun intended...

Paul

 

[pcf_mark]

"Workable cure" - I like that. I can even tig it myself I have so many moving parts now I want to change one less thing...

Epoxy in the crack unless some talks me off the ledge. This crack is so small I had to get within 8" with a bright light and only did that because I heard something.

I want to see if my new engine runs, my serp set up in good, my cooling mods work and my new p/s hoses work!

 

[pcf_mark]

I keep thinking I have no more questions...

The sensor in the 95 Mustang pan - probably low oil? My pan has a big threaded item in it that goes into the pan. In the center of this large fitting there is a hole with nothing in it. There is no electrical item screwed into the hole either. Do I need to plug this with something? I tried to blow some air into it but it leaks air from the open end.

 

[xcntrk]

Back for what I hope is my last question. Engine is in and I am woring the EFI and solving the issues with p/s hoses and coolant hoses.

In the rear corner of my EFI manifold there was a hole that goes into the coolant jacket. I put a plug in it and while tightening it the manifold cracked. I actually heard it. Very slight hair line crack from the plug over the head. Is this going to leak? I hate to take it off now (injectors etc all wired in too!) but better now than later.

A few more hours...

Is it a regular car lower intake? If so, I have an extra that you can have - just pay shipping...

 

[pcf_mark]

Thanks xcntrk! I am going to try and tig weld it. If that goes badly then I'll reach back out.

You guys are great!

 

[pcf_mark]

Finally got this running for a few minutes today! Coolant leak at the t-stat not a big deal.

Thanks for all your help.

I learned the oil level sensor in the pan can be removed and replaced by an M20-1.5 oil drain plug. That was a cool tip.

Also my local Parker hydraulic place took my old power steering hose and cut the metal end that goes to the box. They put a ferrule like thing and a nut on the metal end left over. They did the same to the end of the Explorer power steering end. Then they made a hose to mate to the ferrule fittings. Less than $40 and I had PS working.

I need to adjust the tune but it started right up on my old tune.