About to Install Body

[NickC24]

I am very close to installing the body on my frame off restoration. I have done most things I can think of (i.e. fuel and brake lines, engine, trans, transfer case, suspension, fuel tank, front and rear end rebuild, most of the front dress etc). I am going to test all the lines for leaks. The body is already primed and the undercarriage is raptor lined.

Is there anything else I should do before the body goes on. This is my first time and I am trying to get most of the hard items done before it's installed. Or is there is anything that catches your eye that could be installed incorrectly or could be a problem. I have done extensive bronco research and I'm pretty confident in the build but I guess what I'm saying is I don't know, what I don't know. Any help from experienced bronco guys would be appreciated.

 

[hunter1]

Make sure the fuel lines are tight at the tank, and you have enough sending unit/pump wiring pulled out to make connections. Don't ask me how I know this,,, Looks great by the way!

 

[tasker]

put tape over the holes in the frame where the body mounts go.... and i will add "Don't ask me how I know this,,, Looks great by the way!"

 

[Oldtimer]

Have you installed auto & transfercase to check clearances with frame and exhaust?
It may be easier to install exhaust hangers now.

 

[SteveL]

The wh 1" body lift is a nice add for a little extra clearance

 

[DirtDonk]

Yes, the gas tank looks a little high for stock body mounts. Could be wrong, but it’s worth checking.
Or are you planning to use a body lift already?

And yes, to the transmission! Even as it sits, it might be a tight squeeze with the headers bolted in tight and the header extensions already installed.
Good thing to check now.

And if this was converted from a manual transmission originally, make sure the pilot bearing is removed from the end of the crankshaft.

Do not ignore the above advice regarding tape on the frame under the body mounts!
Cover the holes now while you have the access.
That way, no hardware gets dropped into the frame in the heat of battle.

 

[NickC24]

Make sure the fuel lines are tight at the tank, and you have enough sending unit/pump wiring pulled out to make connections. Don't ask me how I know this,,, Looks great by the way!

Yeah I’m gonna put a clip or bracket for the flex lines to the frame right by the tank. Good call on the wires.

 

[NickC24]

Have you installed auto & transfercase to check clearances with frame and exhaust?
It may be easier to install exhaust hangers now.

I have installed the trans and transfer case. Just not pictured. Thanks.

 

[NickC24]

Yes, the gas tank looks a little high for stock body mounts. Could be wrong, but it’s worth checking.
Or are you planning to use a body lift already?

And yes, to the transmission! Even as it sits, it might be a tight squeeze with the headers bolted in tight and the header extensions already installed.
Good thing to check now.

And if this was converted from a manual transmission originally, make sure the pilot bearing is removed from the end of the crankshaft.

Do not ignore the above advice regarding tape on the frame under the body mounts!
Cover the holes now while you have the access.
That way, no hardware gets dropped into the frame in the heat of battle.

I plan on doing a 1” body lift. The Duff tank has three mounting locations for different body lifts.

The engine is not original. It was built knowing it was being mated to an auto. I will double check with the builder. Thanks!

 

[73azbronco]

Make sure the fuel lines are tight at the tank, and you have enough sending unit/pump wiring pulled out to make connections. Don't ask me how I know this,,, Looks great by the way!

ditto, get a clamp on those fuel lines off tank on the frame, to much slack between attachment points.

is body as it was when remopved? Remember to use same shims on body mount points. If not, no time like installing body when it can be moved around, is make sure shims under body mount points mean the door gaps all line up right. Otherwise you will be back later.

 

[NickC24]

ditto, get a clamp on those fuel lines off tank on the frame, to much slack between attachment points.

is body as it was when remopved? Remember to use same shims on body mount points. If not, no time like installing body when it can be moved around, is make sure shims under body mount points mean the door gaps all line up right. Otherwise you will be back later.

The body is completely brand new so I have a bunch of shims and washers on standby for when I put the body on. Thanks!

Keep them coming. I can post more pictures of the trans and transfer case on later this week.

Also I haven't torque any bolts or nuts. I saw that it's better to do that with most of the weight on the chassis. Having said that, are there any bolts that are a pain to get at with the body on that I should just do now?

 

[fordguy]

I actually ran my engine several times before installing body.

 

[NickC24]

You guys mentioned putting tape over the holes where the body mounts go. My frame doesn't have any holes under the brackets that hold the body mounts. Maybe the previous owner closed them up?

 

[DirtDonk]

Sure looks like it. Or your year didn’t have them?
What year is yours again?

 

[NickC24]

Okay so I’m not crazy. I was looking for what holes you guys were talking about for longer than I’d like to admit. 1970.

 

[DirtDonk]

I’m 99% certain that my 71 has the holes.
When I get a chance, and can get my body down on the ground again, successfully, I’ll check my 68.

 

[73azbronco]

uh, i have a 73 it has holes, I could swear both my 66s had holes in frames.

 

[DirtDonk]

Could be a fluke, could be like suggested that the PO welded them shut.
Pretty damn unlikely I would think, so my vote is for a production fluke.

 

[Shimmy]

77 here with holes

 

[Wild horse 75]

Not sure what your plan is for a rear diff vent but now would be the time to attach it if you’re mounting it to the rear brake line bracket on the frame. I would also check the routing of those fuel flex lines. You don’t want the diff to come up and hit them. It looks like you could easily clock the off towards the drivers side and get them above that rear crossmember more.