advanced adapters

[fummins97]

new question, I bought the zf kit with adapter ring, using the explore intermediate housing. Putting the ring on the d20, there is a dowel hole that will be open. Should I put something in there, it looks like it will be open to the inside and fluid could leak right out. Also, the little shift bracket that came with the AA kit won't bolt up to the intermediate housing, I bought twin sticks from Jeffs, will their brackets replace that bracket or do I have to drill a new hole for it to work?

 

[fummins97]

I have run into major problems. Bought option 2 with the adapter ring for zf trans using it to mate 4r70w to d20. Used the middle mounting hole. Bought the zf JBfab t-shift twin stick kit. Said it didn't need internal mods. Instructions now say need to tear apart case and separate pills. Eb facebook page someone said I can install without cutting pills and it just shifts like regular t shift basically. Which is fine for me at this point. Shifters seem to more or less bind as I'm trying to shift. No instructions provided on position of twin sticks to shift rails. Also, wasn't stated in this thread but quite a bit of grinding needs to be done to the 4r70w intermediate to mount the twin stick bracket. Not a big deal, but I never read it anywhere. Is there any pictures showing similar set up I can compare to??? And I can't seem to find an answer if my kit needed that extra seal put in or if that was just the old kits?

 

[DirtDonk]

Sorry you're having trouble with the t-case. If you did not make any mods to the rods or pills, perhaps yours won't shift because one of them is in an interlock position that won't allow the other to move? I'm guessing you tried both levers in both directions, but that's the first thing that came to my mind anyway.

As far as needing the seal, I think it was stated pretty clearly all along (pretty sure at least), with no change to that info that I saw, that the ZF kit will always require the seal. I say that only because I don't remember anybody saying there was a "new" version of that manual trans adapter. The only one with a new version was the actual correct AOD/4R70w automatic trans adapter kits.

So as far as I know (and even if there had been any kind of an update to the ZF kit), you're going to need that seal no matter what.
The extra 135 bucks for the proper kit is presumably for the extra cast housing, some additional machining to what is (I believe) essentially the same shaft otherwise, an o-ring and a seal.

Not sure why AA doesn't simply add the extra machining cost and a seal to the ZF kit, if it's that good of a fit, but when I talked to them a couple of years ago about it, they didn't have any plans to change the lineup.

Paul

 

[JB Fab]

The "J" type does not require internal modifications. "T" does, regardless of who's shifters are used. Sorry if there was any confusion......

FYI, AA has made some changes that will affect how shifters fit their adapters (see attached TSB).

All of our shifters that that are made for the affected adapters, come with hardware to accommodate the new or the old.

.

 

[fummins97]

The "J" type does not require internal modifications. "T" does, regardless of who's shifters are used. Sorry if there was any confusion......

FYI, AA has made some changes that will affect how shifters fit their adapters (see attached TSB).

All of our shifters that that are made for the affected adapters, come with hardware to accommodate the new or the old.

.

I read the description on jeffs site and it said no internal mods necessary, called them yesterday and the guy basically said oh well. Not your fault, should have read more on your site I guess.
Paul, reading probably ten threads on similar builds, most said the seal was required but there were a few that said something about an older version that didn't, or maybe I'm just stupid, sorry for my confusion. Just trying to figure this stuff out before I put the body on and have huge problems.
Not sure where to go from here, I already cut the trans shaft to fit, and I won't get my money back on this kit to instead buy the correct kit. Need to figure this out in the next few days or scrap it all for winter.

 

[Rickb1b]

I thought I would add a little to this thread mainly for the archives. I read and researched a lot in trying to decide which one of these options to go with for my 4R70W install. Two points which are not readily pointed out: option 2 requires the purchase or fabrication of a new cross-member. Option 3 will allow the use of the current cross-member, but requires one to move the cross-member back about an inch (which requires some sort of cross-member attachment fabrication). So for me it came down to, buy the cheaper kit and get the seal and new cross-member, or buy the more expensive kit and modify my current cross-member. I chose the latter. To move the cross-member back I used some common 3 inch 1/4 thick angle iron. Pictures attached.

 

[englewoodcowboy]

I modified my frame brackets, cut the tops off and welded new ones on to move the cross member back to keep a factory feel to it.