Alternator fitment issues

[LABronco]

I'm doing some work on my 73 which included replacing the original alternator with a Powermaster single wire alternator. The Powermaster has a single post for a cable which runs to battery, however the post hits a piece sticking out of the block...see pics below. I'm trying to figure out what this was used for, has a threaded hole in it and it lines up perfectly with the alternator post. With it in the way I can't use a boot on the post....if anyone knows a work around I'd be interested, thanks. Note: as far as I know this is the original 302.

 

[golfobx]

i am also interested in this as i just ordered a powermaster as well

 

[70_Steve]

Which Powermaster alternator did you get?

 

[golfobx]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-8-57141

 

[70_Steve]

My reason for asking is that, for several alternator types, you should be able to reclock the alternator to have that stud miss the block.

 

[golfobx]

I'll know more when it arrives. I literally ordered last night and then saw this thread when I got on the forums. So was intrigued.

 

[LABronco]

I showed a friend the picture and he thought it may be where a smog pump attaches...anyway that's the best guess I've heard so far.

Most of the pics of alternators I have seen on the 302 they sit fairly high, mine sits low, so maybe it's in the wrong spot...anyway it will have to be moved.

I will be running a Powermaster 140A model 8-47141, single wire.

 

[m_m70]

My reason for asking is that, for several alternator types, you should be able to reclock the alternator to have that stud miss the block.

this is what I had to do

 

[DirtDonk]

Are you using the bolt hole in the head up above in that top pic? And are you using the factory spacer tube thingy, or a variation as well?
What about pulley alignment when you've got it bolted up? Everything look correct there?

I'd have to agree that the mount you're asking about was likely for the cast bracket that held the alternator and air pump in it's original low-mount location. Probably could even grind some off, but I'd rather clock the alternator too, if it doesn't void the warranty.

Your engine looks like it was swapped in from a car or 2wd pickup truck, based on how the dipstick is in the front cover. Do you have a rear-sump oil pan, or front sump?

Paul

 

[LABronco]

Thanks for the replies,

Yeah I'm using the factory hole (one in pic) with the spacer, the pulley alignment also seems to be correct, doesn't have a lot of play when I tighten the belt...it seems to be a factory setup but the one wire alternator has a larger post which interferes.

I have never tried to clock an alternator, didn't know you could...thanks for the suggestion I'll do some research....if I can that should solve my issues.

Not sure if it's the original engine but its a front sump, the oil dipstick lines up with the alt spacer.

 

[Steve83]

This caption describes clocking:

 

[golfobx]

i installed mine today...i needed to spacer my alternator out to line up the pulleys, which then cleared plenty of room for the one wire alternator...so you should be good to go i would think...i am running aluminum heads, so maybe they don't stick out as much?

 

[DirtDonk]

...Not sure if it's the original engine but its a front sump, the oil dipstick lines up with the alt spacer.

In most cases, a replacement oil pan and front cover like that are not usually retrofitted to the original engines. Usually it's because the whole engine was swapped in from another vehicle. In this case a 2wd truck of similar vintage or a car prior to the fox-body Mustangs.

A front sump pan will often get munched by the front differential when the suspension cycles more than just a moderate amount you get on the street. A higher lift will help alleviate this, but won't often get rid of the possibility.

If it ever comes up on your list of things to do, a rear sump, or at least a double-sump pan and dipstick would be a good idea.
Unless yours works fine of course. In which case you don't fix what ain't broke.

But moving the dipstick location also sounds like it might give you fewer headaches when trying to mount the alternator.

Good luck. Sounds like you'll be looking at this project from every whichway to see what's going to work best.

Paul