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Another 408 build

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bmc69

bmc69

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He means as long as all of the cylinders are within that .005 he would be happy. Tolerance is just a machinist/engineers way of saying variance.

That. Was an automotive machinist (since '81) even before I decided to become an engineer..some years later. Was lucky that the shop I worked for did a lot of performance builds..and antique engine restorations. I love both.

I lost track long ago how many engines I've built in 35 years...but its over 300, I do know that much.

That it is still fun, I attribute to my getting away from builidng them as a profession..;)
 

nvrstuk

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Yup, I know what my field's definition of tolerance is and with a background in electrical engineering I'm quite used to dealing well within acceptable tolerances. (no longer in that field)

The reason I asked is this however, why would anyone want as much as .005" "tolerance" from cylinder to cylinder or end of block to the other end? Those are unacceptable tolerances from any machinists perspective and if the equipment can only maintain those tolerances then it's time to upgrade.

Please don't get me wrong here as I'm not barking at anyone, just trying to understand why someone would pay one machinist to deck a block and only expect .005-.010" accuracy when tolerances in this type of application should be much closer and it's easy to find a shop that will deck a block within .001-.002". Not trying to offend anyone...
 
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bmc69

bmc69

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Please don't get me wrong here as I'm not barking at anyone, just trying to understand why someone would pay one machinist to deck a block and only expect .005-.010" accuracy when tolerances in this type of application should be much closer and it's easy to find a shop that will deck a block within .001-.002". Not trying to offend anyone...

Forget it. Sorry I even brought it up.
 
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bmc69

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So..back to the plan.

Got a quote from Tim on the .030 pistons. Will get the block bored and torgue-plate honed to a gnats breth on each hole and then assemble one. That will tell me how much we need to deck the block to get my squish distance. Knowing that the decks are never out of square more than plus/minus 5 thou...we'll shoot for about .040" quench distance with one setup and one pass. No worries about that being less than .035"..so we'll be good to go. Since we BUILD RACING ENGINES to silly precise tolerances...our decking mill will square the decks within a half thousandth every time.

Then its off to the balance shop with everything that rotates.

Then there are some oil restricting jets to install in a few places...and then a good soap and water bath for the block.
 

OX1

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I am giving serious thought to switching to a F.A.S.T. computer to run / take the place of my commander computer. I talked to a local rep / tuner for fast and he can hook me up with everything I need. Then he can tune it. Cool thing is I can re-pin the connector and us the same harness. I will have to change the wide band. I have a 3 wire and the new ones are a 4 wire set up. Dont buy the new holly stuff. Holly has switched to all gm. Really no support for a ford application. Got a ford transmission, Sorry no controller or plug in's for that. The new Holley EFI has built in controllers in it, If you run a GM trans.

Aside from the auto trans issue (which doesn't apply in this case with a manual), would think switching to any major brand for sensors/inj would be better than the older holley stuff that can be sourced only from them. I'm sticking with C6, so trans issues don't much matter to me either. Anything else wrong with the new holley stuff?
 
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bmc69

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. Anything else wrong with the new holley stuff?

I didn't mean to imply the new Holley system wasn't a good prodcut..it may well be. It's just not what I want to use for my applications; I bought the one I have now (NIB..will make you a deal) to use with all Ford EFI (4.6L stuff..grafted on to a '49 8BA V-8).
 
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bmc69

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As if we didn't have enough to worry about as we build up an engine..my ole buddy Tim Myer has discovered a process for aligning the lifter bores. Who knew they are often so far out?...not me.

Here's a pic of a block he recently finished. Looks expensive. %)
 

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bax

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Be is bushing the lifter bores? wow thats cool.

James, the new Holley stuff is good. You will be paying for a lot of extra technology that you will not use. Distributor? you still have a distributor?
Mega squirt would be cheaper and easier.
 
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bmc69

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Be is bushing the lifter bores? wow thats cool.
.

Yes, but only because he's discovered how far off they are! To properly blue print them he has to bore them oversize (duh) and then go back with the sleeves.

I never suspected that lifter bore alignment was ever a concern..."funny" cam and lifter wear patterns I've observed over the years aside.%)
 

bax

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Is he doing any of your machine work? If so let him fit the crank in the block.
 
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bmc69

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Is he doing any of your machine work? If so let him fit the crank in the block.

Nope. Using his Oz pistons and that's it. The two shops that do the machingin I don't do myself are each about 20 miles away.

Tim?..he's a bit farther :cry:
 

OX1

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Be is bushing the lifter bores? wow thats cool.

James, the new Holley stuff is good. You will be paying for a lot of extra technology that you will not use. Distributor? you still have a distributor?
Mega squirt would be cheaper and easier.

Had Tim do my short block (heck he only charges $300 for assembly),
don't recall any bushings in the lifter bores.

I'm not against the MS either, just curious on the comments about the new Holley stuff.

Yes, I will still have a distr, probably still a DS.
Far as I can tell, holley can run those.

Heck, I still might go EEC-IV, but I am drawn to
the systems that can self tune with a wideband
(at least get you close anyway).
 
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bmc69

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Had Tim do my short block (heck he only charges $300 for assembly),
don't recall any bushings in the lifter bores.

.

It's a new process he's recently worked out and will do more of in the future. I'm not going to sweat that kind of detail with this build; I've always found the roller cams to be very forgiving anyways.
 

rastiss

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bushed lifters have been been around for decades. my dad was installing them in his pro stock drag race engines in the 70's. it does a couple of things, allows for correction of "core shift" that happens during casting and also allows for oiling control(on a cleveland).
 
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